1984 Force 125 HP w Control Box - throttle handle 'pulled out' but can't move

[Dave_1984_Bay_Force]

Hi, first post, new. Bought 1984 Bayliner 125 HP Force, compress & spark ok.

Pulled lower unit, replaced impeller, Frank's Step-By-Step.

Then control box handle came off - loose screw, re-tightened.

Now, w handle 'pulled out', handle locked, no move fwd or revrs.

But w handle 'pushed in', handle moves ok?:
Fwd - shft cable moves 1st, shift pivot goes down, throt cable moves 2nd, tower & throt ok.
Rvrs - shft cable moves 1st, shift shift goes up past, throt cable moves 2nd, tower & throt ok.

What done wrong?
thx in adv,
Dave

 

[gm280]

:welcome: aboard Dave...nice to have you join us here on iboats...

Okay let's see what you've done. Looks like a control box issue with a handle that came off. Seems you are having issues with the control box not moving since you replaced and tighten the handle. Not knowing what control box you have, can you post some pictures for us to see what you are dealing with. It may be something simple as opening up the control box and fixing the problem. But until we see your control box, it is hard to tell. The fact that nothing seems to move presently, could be a lock out function, but need those pictures...

 

[Dave_1984_Bay_Force]

Thx gm280. Been long day, here are control unit and cable pictures. I believe control box is original 1984 us marine, & cables replaced 4-5 years ago, have receipt, new cables red. If I 'pull out' handle, i.e. disengage shift, should I be able to change engine throttle from 'idle' to 1/2 or 3/4 throttle, to get it started/warmed up? Right now I'm locked in 'idle'. Dave

 

[Frank Acampora]

You may have a problem with the interlock at the engine end. This interlock is below the carb and in neutral only allows throttle to increase timing by a few degrees and carbs to open a crack. If improperly set up there will be no gap and the handle will not move.

SO. At the engine end check the throttle quick-connect. The center spring-loaded section should be pulled out about 3/16 to 1/4 inch in neutral. This allows the engine to shift into gear before throttles start to open. It will also allow the control handle to move a bit more during lock-out starting.

If the idle stop screw is in too far (to increase the idle speed) It will eliminate the small gap between the cam on the tower shaft and the blocking plate on the shift linkage. THUS: in this eventuality you must go back and set up the engine correctly. Check video on synchronizing timing and carbs. Timing MUST be correct at wide open throttle..

 

[Dave_1984_Bay_Force]

Frank thx. You advised "This interlock is below the carb and in neutral only allows throttle to increase timing by a few degrees and carbs to open a crack."

If 'in neutral' = control handle pulled out, you describe exactly what I have.

In neutral/handle pulled out, handle moves just a tiny bit, timing increase just few degrees & carbs open just a crack. I called this 'locked', my mistake.
I am learning I cannot get 1/2 or 3/4 or wot in neutral/handle pulled out, can only get 'a crack above idle'. So not like a car. Do I have this right?

Will go through the synchronizing as you advise, to be complete. thx Dave

 

[Frank Acampora]

Yes, you understand correctly.