1976 Chrysler 60hp not firing completely

gillie262

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I have a 76 Chrysler 60hp that starts but won't stay started? I have been working on this engine for the past couple of weeks and have replaced one of the ignition coils due to no spark and now it turns ove but won't stay going. Any suggestions on what to check next?
 

jerryjerry05

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IF??? It starts and then dies??
Check the fuel pump, lines, squeezie and the tank vent.

How long does it run? any other info that might help?
 

Frank Acampora

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If it starts and runs for only a few seconds, first try momentarily choking it just before it dies. If it picks up and runs a few seconds more then the carbs need to be taken off, disassembled,, and thoroughly cleaned.
 

gillie262

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It's an electric start, so leaving the choke going would be holding the key in, I will try it and see but I've sprayed carb cleaner into the carbs and stater fluid into the spark plugs too. Thanks for the replies, I will update once I get to try again this evening.
 

gillie262

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Just checked it again and same issue, tried starter fluid directly into carbs and with spark plugs with starting for no more than a few seconds and then dying. Checked all the gas lines and fuel pump and it started leaking fluid when disconnecting from engine so that was good. Recently replaced one of the coils and now both get spark. The engine hasn't ran in a couple of years minimum, would you suggest doing a carb rebuild for both? Or is there an easier way that I might be overlooking? Thanks guys
 
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jerryjerry05

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2 carbs? You do have a rare one!!
Yes do both.
No need to rebuild.
Just a good cleaning and make sure the jets aren't blocked.
I use Dawn Soap and water. Then blow dry.
You can use a carb cleaner but wash it with soap and rinse.
Assemble it dry.
You take the pump apart??
It will pump fuel even with a bad diaphragm.
But once the fuel line is hooked back up it won't work right.
 

Frank Acampora

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I hate it when people don't listen or misunderstand me. I try to be very clear. I said momentarily choke it, not leave the choke on. I also said to disassemble and clean both carbs. The engine is not getting fuel and the most likely culprits are the carbs.
 

gillie262

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So after cleaning the Carbs and not seeing any extra gunk from fuel and relatively clean Carbs, I checked a couple of other things and found out the fuel pump was not working at all. The line coming from the tank is getting to the filter but not able to go from the pump to the Carbs. Hopefully this will solve the mystery problem, I ordered one and it should be here soon. Would it be safe to hook directly from tank to fuel line going to Carbs to check to see if that will work or should i just wait until fuel pump gets in? Is there any harm in going from gas tank to Carbs?
 

Frank Acampora

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You can attach the fuel line from the tank directly to the carb BUT You will need to keep pumping the squeeze ball to keep the carbs filled. OK for testing but a P.I.A. for running on the water and not very practical.
 

gillie262

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I tried it last night and it fired but wouldn't stay started for more than a second or two, but it was the 1st time I saw smoke coming from the engine when it was started so I'm assuming it was a good sign(smoke meaning coming from the exhaust). So I'm hoping that when I get the fuel pump it will help keep the carbs full enough to keep running.
 

Frank Acampora

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Does it -by any chance--have a Magna-Power II ignition? This ignition system has everything except the coils under the flywheel. If it is Mag II you may have a module problem.
 

gillie262

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It does have the mag-II ignition, it may be a module problem? how would I address and check that?
 

gillie262

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So I have gotten the new fuel pump and now carbs are filling up with gas but battery was too dead to let it try and start more than a couple of times, but it's cranking without kicking over. I'm going to try with the battery charged tomorrow but does anyone else have any other suggestions as to why it would crank so hard and not start? Only thing I haven't done yet is take off the flywheel and see if there's anything wrong underneath. I'm hoping it doesn't come to that. Any help would be appreciated thanks in advance.
 

Nordin

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Do you have sufficiant spark at both plugs? This MAG II ignition can be a PIA if you not have a good spark at both plugs.
 

gillie262

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I have spark but what would classify as "good" spark? Should i just replace the spark plugs and see if that works? I know I have as last time I checked around 90psi in both cylinders.
 

gillie262

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So I ended up taking off the flywheel and here's what I saw, the CD module seems to be starting to separate which is in one of the pictures, don't know if that would be the root of my problem, and also the key seems to be loose(don't know if its supposed to be or if its supposed to tight in the slot). But there wasn't any rust on anything inside the flywheel. I know it's kind of hard to turn by hand without some muscle, would that be normal? Anything from anyone would help me out a lot. Thanks.
 

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gillie262

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Got the flywheel all put back together and it fired up for a few seconds with a spark coming from a loose nut touching one of the starter bolts but it ran and then quit. Tightened the nut up and decided to take the carbs off and try and clean them and check all pins, everything looked great and then put carbs back on. Filled bowls with gas/oil mix via pump and it wouldn't turn over. I was just reading about the key inside the flywheel and that the flywheel needs to be a certain amount of lbs torque, is this true on my engine as well? Does anyone else have any suggestions on what I can do to get this baby up and running for good?
 

gillie262

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Ok so maybe someone may be able to help without me reposting a new topic. But as of now I don't have any spark on the top cylinder but the engine is getting gas via carbs and I have no idea what to check next. I had spark but now I don't. I can take the plugs out and smell gas in the cylinders but with hooking up a spark tester there is no spark via the top coil, that is the one that I recently replaced and am hoping that it didn't go bad as well. Could it be something under the flywheel? Maybe the CD module? Trigger? I am stumped now officially and don't want to keep trying different parts and spending way too much money if I don't need to. What the hell is going on with this motor? Please any help would help a lot.
 

Nordin

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Well to troubleshoot the MAG II system is a bit difficult and as I am in Sweden and my english is not so good I hope you will have to be patience.

Outboardignition.com have a troubleshootchart too.

Pull out the plugs and disconnect the hightension wires from the plugs.
Turn the flywheel with the starter about 4-5 turns . Use a screwdriver and ground the T1 and T4 terminals one by one.
Touch the flywheel with the screwdrivershaft and touch the T1 terminal at the CD module with the tip of the screwdriver.
There should be a arc at the tip/terminal. This check if the CD module and capacitor module is ok.
Do this procedur at the T4 terminal too. If no arc, disconnect the wires to the capacitor and change the connection from T1 and T4 of the wires.Do the check again. If the arc moves from T1 to T4 or viseversa one capacitor is bad in the cap.module. You have to turn the flywheel 4-5 turns every time you check with the screwdriver. This is for charging the capacitor module.

If no arc even if you disconnect the capacitor and change the terminals at the CD module or the arc not move from T1 to T4 or viseversa the module is bad.

Read the troubleshoot at Outboardignition.com too and you maybe understand how to troubleshoot.
 
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