bowl nut spring

Simple_Man

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1987 Force 85 HP dies when i snap it into gear. Stays running if I give it throttle at the same time. then I can pull it back to idle in gear. I checked compression 125 125 130 decided to clean carbs found floats out of adjustment cleaned them good. with wd40 when i took the bottom carb off the spring under the bowl nut was missing how important is this spring
 
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Simple_Man

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Just looked the part up it is the nozzle spring. how important is it?
 

Jiggz

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Basically, I believe the spring is there to keep pressure on the bowl to prevent it from vibrating loose. I do not believe it interferes in the operation of the nozzle. As for your problem of keeping it idling, make sure the air-fuel mix screw is set properly to one turn out from seated for all three carbs. And the idle rpm is set correctly to around 750 RPM in gear. This usually equates to about 850~950 rpm in neutral depending on the size of your prop.
 

Frank Acampora

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That is not a screw in venturi nozzle. The spring keeps it from dropping down under vibration. It may not drop down at all, but Find the spring and replace it.

Now, since the engine dies when put in gear, clean or change the spark plugs. If that does not help OR if the plugs are already clean, raise the idle speed in the water in forward gear to 700-750 RPM.
 
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Simple_Man

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Thanks guys boat is new to me before i took the mixture screws out to clean i turned them in 4 full turns I am hoping when i ajust them tomorrow that will fix all my running issues again thanks all gonna try t without the spring while I search for one. I will let you know how it turns out
 

Frank Acampora

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Four full turns are way too much! When you set up the engine again start with the mixture screws 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated.That is usually correct but test on the water, Do a full throttle hole shot from a dead stop. If the engine "sags" and tries to die then picks up and runs, the carbs are set too lean. Back out 1/8 turn at a time. If the engine runs rough and "burbles" then clears itself and picks-up, it is too rich. Close the needles 1/8 turn at a time.

Do this step until the engine picks-up smoothly under acceleration.

Under no circumstances, and no matter how it idles, close the low speed needles past 7/8 turn out from lightly seated. To do so is very likely to cause major engine damage.
 

Simple_Man

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Thanks frank one my way to reassemble now. I will let you know how it goes
 

Simple_Man

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well I was able to shift into gear without it stalling, now it throttles up good but after a bit it boggs some so back to the lake after I buy a screw driver that is short enough to access the bottom idle mixture screw.
 

Frank Acampora

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I your Force is a black one lift up the rubber seal in the front of the cowl. There is an access hole in the cowl for adjusting the bottom carb. Not sure if the blue Force engines have it but it couldn't hurt to look.
 

Simple_Man

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yes there is thanks Frank Your The Man cuz i couldnt find a screw driver short enough
 

Simple_Man

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well guys I re-cleaned the carbs. and it fixed my shifting into gear problem. idles great. now I cant get it to run at WOT. I have good spark. plugs are not to clean no oily residue. ran great at WOT before I cleaned carbs and ajusted floats.feels like it is starving for fuel.going to do the tests i read about and will let you know. Thanks again.
 

Simple_Man

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clear fuel filter stayed full, sprayed fuel into the carbs the top on make it run better and the bottom two made it want to stall looks like I am re-cleaning it again
 

Simple_Man

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UGGGGGG I ran new fuel lines and the one from the pump to the carbs was getting pinched!!!!! uggggggg Again Frank and Jiggz Thanks for all your help!!!! running great now
 

Jiggz

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Great! Usually when fuel lines start to kink it is because its too old and needs replacing. New heavy duty fuel lines are hard to kink even when intended.
 
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