Force 120 doesnt start first try, runs good otherwise.

Essigem33

Recruit
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
1
Hello! I have a 96 force 120 with about 500 hours on it. It runs great overall. The only problem i have is that when i'm out on the water using it. I'll shut it down to chill or pull a crab pot. Then when i try to restart it, it starts and runs for a brief second. Then i try again and it fires right up. Does this pretty constant. I change the spark plugs every season or at least clean them really good. I know, "let the force be with you!" I've heard so much crab about force outboards! I've read a lot of people just hating them! Never any real reasons. Some said corrison issues. Cheaply made. I bought it with 300 hours from my bestfriend who bought from the orginal owner. Both never had any real problems with it. I maintain it and treat the best i can. Another question. I have never de carboned the carbs. Easiest ways? Thanks.
 

Nordin

Commander
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,428
No issue, OB engines are individuals and have different starting procedures. I always give my OB a little higher idle and pump the primerbulb before starting after a little longer stop.

Try to prime the bulb and set the idle a little bit higher then normal idle. Do not know what remotecontrol you have, some have a knob in the box that you pull to disengage the gearlever and then you push the handle forward a bit. Some boxes have a lever only for coldstart to rise the throttle.
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
If that's the only problem that you're having, the only thing I would change is maybe your starting technique. Like Nordin eluded to, you should have a neutral fast idle position on your throttle handle which should be used to start the motor. This allows you to push the throttle handle forward and open the throttle plates on the carburetors without engaging the gear case.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
17,923
Set up the idle.
The "de-carb" It's not a decarb for the carbs.
It's to reduce the carbon buildup in the cylinders and rings.
Do a compression test first.
I think your motor should have 2 readings. the top and bottom and the 2 center holes should read the same.
The engineers thought it needed different comp on the top/bottom cyl.

In any case, the comp should be close in the matched cylinders.
The top/bottom should be 10# lower than the 2 center. I think that's how it goes.
I'm sure someone will post the right info.

The decarb: Get a can of Powertune(Merc) or Engine Tuner(OMC) Seafoam says it removes carbon but I have never had any luck with it.
Follow the directions.

The carbon that's DEEP in the rings won't come out.
The surface carbon will be removed.
It's good for part of a yearly maintenance.

If the carbon has gone too long the only way to get it is a remove the piston and scrape it out.
 

HotTommy

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Mar 15, 2013
Messages
1,025
Essigem33,
I'm not as experienced in these matters as Jerry, but I agree with his advice to adjust the carbs. BUT, don't open it up and just start turning screws. Get the proper procedure from the FSM and do the job right.I would also check for signs of fuel leakage around the carbs. If a float bowl is leaking and losing its fuel, there may not be enough fuel for the engine to idle until the fuel pump refills it.
 

gregmsr

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 20, 2006
Messages
391
My experience with these motors, my 125 is VERY sensitive to dirty plugs. I at least clean them after every 2-3 times out. Makes a big difference in idle and starting..
Like jerry said, compression testing is a must. Poor compression = sick motor = poor performance. It will run but these little things start showing up.
As before, after compression test, set idle up a little (not the screws on the carbs, find the idle adjustment screw), make sure plugs are always clean as possible.
Search this forum for threads pertaining to any of your issues....you will find answers.
 

Nordin

Commander
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,428
If your only issue is" the engine does not fires up at first attempt after a stop" BUT at second or third and it is performing well when started.
DO NOT play with the carbs.
Make a compressiontest just to check the health of the engine, it is good to know the comp.numbers of each cylinder.

Try to change the starting procedure, prime the bulb and set the idle in coldstart position by opening up the throttles a bit.
 

SkiDad

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 18, 2010
Messages
1,518
i have the same issue especially in the last year - but if I put the throttle in neutral warm up it will fire 1st time every time - if i just leave it normal it catches the 2nd time usually.
 
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