Starter Mount Question

[ERock82]

I am planning on repowering my 14' Bayliner Capri in a couple of months as soon as I finish my deck rebuild. Due to my specific motor requirements it my take awhile to find the motor I need and want. I currently have a Force 40hp 2 stroke and due to not having to change the controls and weight limits I need a 40 or 50 Mercury 2 stroke that is at least from the 2,000's and is under $2500. Really want the 50 though. Four strokes are too heavy in the 50.

So, a little back story: My Force motor is basically trashed. I have a broken drive shaft, bad pinion gear, broken starter mount, and need new seals and water pump. Also, it's only a manual tilt which sucks.

I was thinking about wanting to have some good personal savings and how throwing down $2500 in cash is going to make that take a lot longer. I came across a full lower unit for my motor for around $300. If it is half decent, that would take care off all of my problems except the starter mount.

Now, the deal with the starter mount was that it would cost about $300 to have welded and a ton of my time splitting the case to give the welder just the case with nothing else (He insists he will only do it that way as well as other shops). There are a few blocks on ebay that are around $400 but have either all been re-welded or are questionable.

NOW?.here is where this post comes in.

This starter was supposed to be mounted with (3) bolts. When I bought it a year ago it only had (2) bolts. I didn't know much about motors and didn't think anything of it. With just the left side upper mount bolt in it will start to hang after a couple starts. I just happen to have the starter mount bracket which the 3rd bolt goes into. Since, I used this about 7 or 8 months before the mount broke with just the 2 upper bolts, what would happen if I put the bracket on and mounted my starter with just the upper left bolt and the bottom bracket bolt which goes directly in the block?

Could this hold up awhile? It seems it would be at least as strong as just the top two were. Also, I could use my boat until I find the motor I want. Could be 6+ months. If it works good I might use for a year to save up more and get an even nicer motor.

So, what do you all think?

 

[Jiggz]

Personally, I would just go for a used 40~50 Force of the same one you have or maybe even a little newer. I've seen people in here paying 300~500 dollars for such motors and it's only a matter of switching it over and making the old one a spare part's bin. Of course it's a matter of location where you can get such cheap used motors.

 

[jerryjerry05]

You neglected to add the year of the motor you have.
The wanting to switch to a 2000 something might be possible but the year of the old one really will tell.
You might have to swap the controls and wiring.

The adding of the bottom bracket might work???
Give it a try.

Pics would help a bunch.

There are a lot of outboards for sale. Shipping can be a problem.
Location?
There was a 50 1986 with T/T with a no spark problem for sale.
Guy wanted $250 but wouldn't ship.
Good luck add some more info/ pics.

 

[ERock82]

Hey Jerry, thanks for the response. It's a 1995. I have a Quicksilver 3000 Control. A guy at a marine place said it would work with a 2000's model Mercury but that was over the phone. He also said that the mounting bolts would most likely line up from Force to Mercury.

Finding another Force is an option but one in decent shape for as cheap as I can put a lower unit on will be hard to do in short time. I have fixed so much that I feel like I know my motor inside out and that makes things easier when something goes wrong.

I would think that the worst case scenario if the bracket didn't help would be to just bring a wrench along and re-tighten the bolt if it hung down for each start. The only real concern would be if it caused damage to the flywheel or if the left side of the mount broke off too. Not sure it would though since it is so close to the block unlike the right one that broke.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Yea the 2000 stuff would work.
Post a pic of the broken bracket.

 

[Frank Acampora]

IF-- and that is the operative word---IF the starter motor mount is the same as earlier Force 50 engines, all is not lost: Back in the '60s and '70s Chrysler had a problem with this starter. There was a lower bracket that connected the bottom of the starter to the intake manifold. If this bracket was missing or loose, it allowed the starter to twist and break the front case mount--usually at the top mounting stud. This was a relatively common occurrence.

Now, if this is what happened to yours you have several options BESIDES welding. Chrysler did make a steel plate that fit under all three nuts. If you want to try this, contact franzmarine@aol.com. If anyone would have it, Franz would be the one.

you can also make an aluminum or steel plate about 2 inches long by 1/2 to 3/4 inch wide with one hole where the top bolt is and another where the extra bolt hole may be. Grind down the boss on the motor mount for clearance of this plate and install it, bolting the other hole to the crankcase front half. If you still have the broken piece of the crankcase, you can cross-drill and tap it with about an 8-32 or 10-32 bolt.