Are Outboard and L-Drive Lower Units The Same

[backhandman]

Sorry to resurrect a dead thread. But are the lower units from the outboard the same as an L drive. I have an L drive and there is a Lower unit on Craigslist for a good deal. but I dont know if it from an outboard or the L

 

[GA_Boater]

Welcome, backhand.

Took the liberty to start a new thread for you. Hope you find the answer.

 

[Stachi]

My lower unit is a 1990. It has the shift rod bellows type seal . It is an L drive. It was originally on the 1990 120 Force outbooard that was hanging on the back of my boat since the day it was first sold.

 

[backhandman]

My lower unit is a 1990. It has the shift rod bellows type seal . It is an L drive. It was originally on the 1990 120 Force outbooard that was hanging on the back of my boat since the day it was first sold.

Im sorry. I dont understand.

Also while im here. is a special tool required to dissasemble and reassemble the lower unit? Mine has a slight leak and I would like to replace the seals.

 

[Stachi]

Where is it leaking ?

 

[backhandman]

its leaking right behind the prop. Also i'm hoping its not the gears or the clutch.. but when i was at WOT i was feeling a jerking in the throttle like it was kicking in and out of gear. any idea what that is?

 

[pnwboat]

If it's leaking behind the prop, it may be the prop shaft seal or the prop shaft bearing carrier seal.

Depending on the year you may or may not have to have special tools. Since your unit is on a L Drive, it's probably the early 1990 style lower which does not absolutely require special tools (helps to have them though). It may require some special "techniques" to get the prop shaft bearing carrier out if corrosion is present.

The jerking at WOT is either the gear linkage not adjusted correctly so the clutch dogs are not fully engaged, or the clutch dogs in the gear case are rounded off and not staying engaged. Here is a link to a video that is typical of a Force motor running at WOT that exhibits this problem. Title of the video is "1989 Bayliner WOT issues.MP4"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4T1vjk8Pga0

 

[backhandman]

Thank you so much. Yes. the jerking is very similar. I believe i can see the clutch dogs when i replace the seals and water pump?

 

[pnwboat]

You will have to remove the propeller shaft bearing carrier, which has some seals and then remove the propeller shaft to see the clutch dogs. You may also have to remove the top plate on the lower unit to get the shift mechanism back together. Pretty much have to dis-assemble the lower unit to fix the clutch dogs. Not that difficult once you've done it a few times. Figuring out the shift mechanism may take a while if you're not familiar with it. You can also look for a used lower unit. That may be your best bet if you don't feel comfortable repairing it yourself.

 

[backhandman]

servicing it is no problem. All I need is a screw driver, a hammer and the world is mine. lol as long as no special bearing puller is needed. im good. The start of this thread was about whether the lower on the outboard was the same as the L drive. I'm sure the drive shaft is different. but if all the internals are the same i might pick the one up on Craigslist for $325

 

[Frank Acampora]

Pulling the pinion gear in order to remove the forward gear is a witch with a capital "B" No special tools are needed except for a couple of large sockets, something to grab the drive shaft splines (I use an old OMC prop hub and a BIG pipe wrench), and a breaker bar to loosen the nut. Then you must use a couple of wedges to pop the pinion off the locking taper. Not a difficult job if you have tools, impossible without them.

You can also use the drive shaft coupler but it is hard and difficult for the pipe wrench to grab--besides, I don't like dicking it up with wrench markings.

Remember to torque a new pinion nit to 95 foot pounds when re-installing the pinion.

 

[backhandman]

Awesome. Thanks for the tips

 

[backhandman]

I was about to buy a water pump for this beast but realized that this year there were 3 revisions. The third having a different part number for the pump. Anyways it's too cold the boat is all tarped up with snow on it to look at the motor to see which model number it is. Is there any way to find out the model number buy the boats hin

 

[pnwboat]

At one time you might have been able to, but since these motors have been out of production for so long and have probably passed through multiple owners who may have changed or repaired the lower unit, your guess is as good as anyone else's. Even if you have the model number, it's not a 100% guarantee. To be sure, you need to take the old water pump off, and compare the gasket with what you find on-line. Make sure the image you find on-line is the actual part.

 

[backhandman]

Would anyone know where I can find the badge with the model number on the power head. I can't find it all. Maybe a picture?

 

[Boatdoc58]

No Title

Hope this helps with IDing your lower unit.

 

[backhandman]

There is a c stamped on the lower unit. on the mating surface. is that the indicator of which revision this motor and lower is at?

 

[jerryjerry05]

The year can be found under the electronics on the stbd. side.
There is a foundry stamp with the year in the center of the stamp.

The model #?
If the sticker on the transom is gone you might be able to write to Bayliner and give them the hull# and they should have the info you need.

They made a bunch of different models Most differences were small changes in maybe a bolt or some way to fasten something down.
Usually the difference was so small you'd be hard pressed to find the difference.

 

[backhandman]

No Title

Here are some photos of the worn clutch dogs and the C