Used Force 125. Spitting water from pee holes. Still change impeller?

777funk

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jan 12, 2015
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150
I just got an 89 Force 125 and brought it back from 10-15 years without service. The impeller is a question mark but it's spitting water from the pee holes when hooked to the hose/ear muffs. It's not spraying a stream but it is spitting some out and a lot out of the exhaust hole at the lower unit. This is all after the engine warms up some (thermostat opening I'm guessing).

Do I need to change the impeller?

I'd like to make sure the buzzer and overheat sensor are working as well. I'd assume the buzzer could be tested by connecting to voltage, but the sensor would have to basically reach whatever temp is overheated. Not sure how to do that.
 

Justinde

Chief Petty Officer
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Dec 11, 2010
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Unsure how to test the overheat buzzer, but for $20 odd bucks and a little effort, change the impeller. I'd do the complete waterpump/impeller kit for $50.......;-)
 

SkiDad

Lieutenant Commander
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Jul 18, 2010
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What you are saying about the water is the normal way it looks on a force 125. But you probably should change it - i have someone I know that hasn't changed there impeller in 20 years but I wouldn't do that myself.... i change mine every 2 or 3 years - cheap insurance. Last time I changed mine it had a slight tear in it at only 2 years of use (about 40 times out).

I'm not positive but I think you could test the overheat sensor with a hair dryer. It makes more of a buzzing sound (at least in my boat)
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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May 24, 2011
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Would you drive at high speed on 10-15 year old tires and expect the tires to hold up? Of course you should change the impeller. Impellers are usually changed every two years, so not knowing when it was changed last and adding 10-15 years of sitting, you're due.
 

Justinde

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Dec 11, 2010
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Edit..... That's a potential $50.00 investment to protect your powerhead. up to you.
 

jerryjerry05

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May 7, 2008
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To test the buzzer. Key on, ground the Orange lead from the sending unit to the block.
It should make the buzzer sound off.
No buzz? Unhook it and supply power and ground to the buzzer.
It should sound off then.
No buzz? Throw the buzzie away and replace with a cheap car horn.
The buzzer is usually under the dash.

The impeller has set in the pump for way too long.
The vanes have acquired a bend and won't pump as good.
Replace.

The Thermostat has set a long time too.
Remove it and replace or at least test it.
Drop it in a cup of boiling water.
The spring should open the passage when it's dropped in the hot water.
 

777funk

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jan 12, 2015
Messages
150
I'll probably install a Telltale hose in there and make sure the buzzer's working. I really should install a new impeller too. I'm a little afraid to pull the LU on this big 125 since it's just me and no helpers. But I'll have to give it a shot.
 

HotTommy

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Mar 15, 2013
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1,025
I'll probably install a Telltale hose in there and make sure the buzzer's working. I really should install a new impeller too. I'm a little afraid to pull the LU on this big 125 since it's just me and no helpers. But I'll have to give it a shot.


I'm in my late 60's and not very big. I changed the impellers on my Force 90 and Force 150 by myself. I cussed a lot and it didn't go back on the first try, but it can be done. You need a new impeller, so either do it yourself or pay someone to do it.
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
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Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,592
Unless YOU changed the impellor yourself in the last couple of years, I would certainly change any water pump impellor or even the entire water pump assembly on any new-to-me engine purchase, regardless what the previous owner stated... But that IS just the way I do things. It isn't that difficult to do and doesn't even cost much in comparison to frying an engine and then having to rebuild...if still possible!
 

SkiDad

Lieutenant Commander
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Jul 18, 2010
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there is a FAQ on how to do it - 3 important things that come to my mind are: tilt the engine up (makes it easier) unhook the shift rod (small cotter pin) before you start doing any bolts. There is a hidden bolt under the exhaust snout that isn't apparent.
 

777funk

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jan 12, 2015
Messages
150
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OK!! OK!! You guys talked me into it. And, it's an easy job. Glad I listened. It looks like someone else has done it not too far back.

The seals for the top of the drive shaft came off while removing the LU and I couldn't see how they went. Is this right (see second pic)?
 

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