1989 Force 125 Hasn't Been Run in 6 Years. Anything I should do before cranking?

777funk

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I just picked up a vintage Force 125 outboard that hasn't been run in 6-7 years. Is there anything I should do before I crank it?

I know in 4 strokes (car engines), it's a good idea to lube the cylinders before cranking. In a 2 stroke is there anything that should be done before I crank to protect the moving parts that may be dry from time?

I'd guess the carbs are filthy as well so maybe clean those. Anything else I should address?
 

Bob_VT

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Make sure the carbs are clean and disconnect the plugs and using a squirt can I would squirt some fuel/oil mix into each carb and crank it. That will get fresh oil to the cylinders and bearings.

Then check the lower unit oil, the impeller, hook up the water and give it a whirl. Once it is running I would do a complete carb rebuild/cleaning and do a de-carb on the motor when its running
 

SkiDad

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here is a link on what to do - at the very minimum i would change the impeller and squirt 2 stroke oil in the cylinders and rotate it a little. Make sure you are on a hose with water. PS - they like to start a little better in neutral with a little bit of throttle.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...rd-by-boatbuoy
 
Last edited:

foodfisher

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I'd be sure to have an inline filter before running to catch any possible debris before it fouls the carbs.
 

gm280

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WOW with six to seven years sitting, almost anything could be wrong. Fuel lines are probably cracked and rotting, fuel diaphragms in pumps and such, and of course the carb(s) all need attention. Even plugs, wires and things like that should be checked over. Absolutely water pump impellors and lower foot oil should be changed. All wires and connections should be checked and cleaned. So many things that certainly don't like sitting for that long a time.... I'd be totally amazing and equally impressed if you don't find something wrong with it that will probably need fixed before it runs properly...
 

erie_guy

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I personally would do a "compression check" on all cylinders - to determine if the engine is worth your time and effort in resurrecting it. I would pull all plugs and squirt a few cc of two-cycle oil into each cylinder, manually rotate the engine through a half dozen cycles before doing the compression check. Assuming the readings are "ballpark" OK, (i.e.90-150 psi) - proceed to restarting the engine by draining any remaining fuel from the carbs, fuel lines, and fuel tank. Mix up a small but fresh batch of 50:1 fuel mixture, re-install the plugs, and try to start the engine on a garden hose w/muffs. Starting fluid may have to be injected directly into the carb throats to get it to fire.

If you can get it to run for even a couple of seconds, this is GOOD RESULT and I agree with suggestions to change the water pump impeller, rebuild carbs, replace fuel pump diaphragm, and probably replace the fuel lines, squeeze bulb, and fuel filter.

Best of luck in saving this engine. Hopefully by the time you get these tasks completed, it will be warm enough to do an in-the-water check.

erie_guy
Port Clinton, OH
 

Jiggz

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These will be the steps I will be taking if I were in your shoes:
1. Remove plugs, squirt fuel/oil mix into each cylinder to lube them while turning the flywheel to distribute it around on all 4 cylinders.
2. Replace all plugs with new ones
3. Uninstall the lower unit (LU) and replace the impeller with a new one. Change the LU oil. conduct a visual of the lower unit's water passages to make sure none is clogged. Re-install LU
4. Clean carbs with carb cleaners. At this point you can do the compression test if you so desire. Make sure you follow the procedures properly.
5. Visually inspect all fuel hoses for cracks. Remove the fuel pump filter, inspect and clean and then replace. Check primer bulb, replace if necessary. Install a clear fuel filter between the fuel pump outlet and the carb's inlet (A G2 type from WMart will suffice). This is more for troubleshooting and as a secondary fuel filter. Check operation of the fuel system by priming it with the primer bulb. The clear fuel filter should get filled at least 1/2~3/4 and the priming bulb should get firm (since the system is empty it would take more than 6~8 presses of the priming bulb to become firm). While doing so visually check the carbs for fuel leaks. Any leaks indicate improper float settings on the carbs or damaged or stuck inlet needle.
6. If fuel system is OK. Connect cooling water to the LU and you can try starting the motor.
 

777funk

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Jan 12, 2015
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WOW with six to seven years sitting, almost anything could be wrong. Fuel lines are probably cracked and rotting, fuel diaphragms in pumps and such, and of course the carb(s) all need attention. Even plugs, wires and things like that should be checked over. Absolutely water pump impellors and lower foot oil should be changed. All wires and connections should be checked and cleaned. So many things that certainly don't like sitting for that long a time.... I'd be totally amazing and equally impressed if you don't find something wrong with it that will probably need fixed before it runs properly...

Yes, I bought this one knowing that it'd be a project. I checked the compression before buying and it looked ok. I'm sure it won't start (fuel lines are hard as rocks and primer bulb is split). I'll have to change all the fuel plumbing, inspect the carbs and fuel pump. But I didn't want to do any of that before making sure moving parts are safe. I'm hoping to get it running.
 
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