1992 Bayliner Capri Rebuild

[brianq]

I am a fairly new boat owner and not so proud owner of a completely rotten 1992 Bayliner! As you all know part of the solution is first admitting that there is a problem! The floor was pretty much non-existent between the seats when I purchased the boat. It is my first boat and I didnt know any better. After reading this site for awhile I have decided to do a full restoration. Im pretty handy so I think I can do it following in everyone on heres footsteps and if not well ill just take it to the junk yard! ha

My plan is to replace the floor stringers and transom. I also will be replacing the starter and repairing a hole which I had done a patch job on previously from the outside.

 

[rickryder]

Welcome Aboard! Plenty of good people here to help you along on your rebuild!

 

[brianq]

No Title

I started gutting the floor and removed one of the seat boxes so far.

A few observations:

The amount of water in the foam is extraordinary.
It seems over whelming now but Im just taking it a day at a time.
Working will be tough as the boat is in New Jersey and its pretty cold on the north east this time of year!

A few questions:

I dont have enough room to remove the cap. Anyway I can get the transom out without removing it? (See pictures)
I drilled into the one stringer I exposed and it seems well glassed and the shavings were dry. Am I dreaming thinking they can stay?

MERRY CHRISTMAS!



Here you can see the cap lip cracked off allowing water between the skin and the transom:





Here you can see the cap is solid over the transom:





Transom:








Here you can see my former half @ss repair:

 

[64osby]

I don't see the transom being repaired without removing the cap above and the seat frames, maybe not the whole cap.

But I am a Tinny so what do I know. :suspicious:

 

[brianq]

1992 Force 70 HP Gas Tank

I just started a restoration of my 1992 Bayliner Capri. I dont have a gas tank, I use 2 six gallon portable tanks. Since I have removed the floor I would like to add a gas tank. The engine has no oil reservoir, I mix the oil into the gas cans. How would this work? Has anyone done this before?

Merry Christmas!

 

[Nordin]

It will work BUT I prefer portable tanks instead of fixed because they are much easier to clean. If you get water in a fixed tank you have trouble to clean it and you will get water in it, truste me.
Well portable tanks are hell to handle, make your own choise. Fixed or portable?

 

[rickryder]

I am very familiar with restoring a boat in NJ during the winter! First thing you should really sure up the hull with some type of cradle so your hull doesn't flex out of shape when you remove all of the structure below deck. I used a canopy like this with a large blue tarp over it to keep everything dry and the ability to pump heat in so I could do glass layups.

You will need to either pull your cap or cut the back splashwell and remove that section to get to your transom.

 

[rickryder]

brianq you could ask these questions in your resto thread so it's easier to keep track of..... You could build a fuel tank locker below deck with an access door/panel in the deck so if you ever needed to service the tank you wouldn't have to cut open the deck. I'm sure a Moderator will merge this with your other thread

EDIT - OK, all together now! GA_B

EDIT : Thanks GA

 

[jerryjerry05]

Yes by all means put it in the floor.
Way easier than the portable tanks.
Just make sure the fill is in an area that isn't gonna get water easily.

Make sure the pickup is at the rear of the boat.
The vent is put on the outside of the boat. That way vapors aren't in the boat.
I think this site has access to tanks and installation kits.
I'm sure you can find one to fit in the bilge.
Just make sure when you install it and nothing is under it.
Make sure the water can drain out from under it.
Then after it's installed get a can of spray foam and squirt it all around the sides.
That will make it immovable and won't rub holes in it.

I developed a leak in a tank.
Boat still under warranty.
Turns out there was a stainless steel screw in the bottom under the tank.
After time it rubbed a hole in the bottom of the tank.

 

[rickryder]

maybe a tank like this one on Iboats.... http://www.iboats.com/27-Gallon-Per...1327033--session_id.885266834--view_id.361859

Your question on fuel mix: I would figure out how much fuel I was adding....your mix ratio.... mix oil and a gallon or 2 of fuel in a gas can....mix well then add to your straight fuel in the tank...it should all mix together as you drive to the ocean/lake

I personally would not foam the tank in....like mine I secured it to the stringers...had plastic strips attached to the bottom of the tank running long ways from bow to stern to keep it off the sole...put drain holes from the fuel tank locker bulkhead to the bilge to allow water to escape.

 

[Arawak]

I premix 50:1 in my Bayliner. I add the oil to the builtin tank and then the gas.

Draining the builtin tank is not a huge deal... I just disconnect the fuel line from the motor, run it into a gas can on the ground, give it a couple pumps to start the siphon and let it go.

As far as your transom replacement goes, unless you have a heated enclosure this is a summer project. Also, you need to remove the cap. You could probably cut the last 3 feet or so, but then you need to repair that.

 

[Woodonglass]

How big's you're boat? What's her overall load capacity? 27 gallons of fuel adds another 200 lbs of weight to your boat so you have to calculate that into the total. You also have to determine the location of the fill tube and the vent tube and ensure they are in a safe location.

 

[brianq]

I premix 50:1 in my Bayliner. I add the oil to the builtin tank and then the gas.

Draining the builtin tank is not a huge deal... I just disconnect the fuel line from the motor, run it into a gas can on the ground, give it a couple pumps to start the siphon and let it go.

As far as your transom replacement goes, unless you have a heated enclosure this is a summer project. Also, you need to remove the cap. You could probably cut the last 3 feet or so, but then you need to repair that.

Rickryder thanks for the tank recommendation that one seems great. I would like to use the enclosure but the boat is a half block from the beach, that tent would be ripped to shreds.

I premix 50:1 in my Bayliner. I add the oil to the builtin tank and then the gas.

Draining the builtin tank is not a huge deal... I just disconnect the fuel line from the motor, run it into a gas can on the ground, give it a couple pumps to start the siphon and let it go.

As far as your transom replacement goes, unless you have a heated enclosure this is a summer project. Also, you need to remove the cap. You could probably cut the last 3 feet or so, but then you need to repair that.

Arawak: I have started working my way through your resto it has been very helpful as our boats are fairly similar. I noticed you used lateral support with dimensional lumber as opposed to a cradle. Is that what i should do? I have yet to come across are thread with a cradle, any suggestions?


WOG: The boat is 16 feet, I will be adding the tank, considering the tanks I use are 12 and the new one is 27 gallons im only adding 100 pounds. The water in that foam Im sure I will still be reducing the weight of the boat. Also only 12 gallons of gas I pretty much drive gas dock to gas dock.

It will be a slow process since I only go to that house on the weekends. My plan is to have all demo and sanding finished and be ready to rebuild for spring. I am also looking into a storage unit if they will let me work in there.

As always thanks for all the info!

 

[Woodonglass]

Brianq technically that's not correct. When the MFG calculates the weight limits for a boat the fuel capacities are NOT figured in to the calculations. So if your boat is rated for 1,000 lbs and you have a 27 gallon tank you have to calculate the 210 lbs of fuel along with any other cargo that did not come from the factory. I understand you had 12 gals before but that was also additional. The wet foam is NOT a consideration because it should not have been there in the first place.

Here's a quick way to calculate your boats capacity rating...
[h=5]Calculating Your Boat?s Capacity[/h] On boats less than 20 feet in length with no capacity plate, use the following rule of thumb to calculate the number of persons (weighing 150 lbs. each, on average) the vessel can carry safely in good weather conditions.

Number of people = vessel length (ft.) x vessel width (ft.) ? 15​

For example, for a vessel 18 feet long by 6 feet wide, the number of persons is 18 times 6 (or 108) divided by 15, which equals seven 150-lb. persons (or a total person weight of 7 x 150, or 1050 lbs.).

 

[rickryder]

You don't need to build a complete cradle like you're pulling the trailer out from under the boat...just use some 2x4's and build small walls under the outer chines of the boat... then cross brace from one side to the other so the walls won't lean port to stern.... it's hard to explain by typing and I don't have a pic of what I mean....but if you would like for me to explain further we're both in NJ... PM me your # and I'll give you a shout.

 

[Arawak]

Arawak: I have started working my way through your resto it has been very helpful as our boats are fairly similar. I noticed you used lateral support with dimensional lumber as opposed to a cradle. Is that what i should do? I have yet to come across are thread with a cradle, any suggestions?

I'm not entirely happy with my support system. It will work but I'm on a poured concrete slab. In your case I'd do as rickryder suggests.

 

[brianq]

Finally got to work on the boat Saturday! Got a few hours in, it was pretty cold. The wet foam was frozen solid so I didnt get done what I wanted to do. Instead I removed the remaining carpet, side pads and windshield.

I forgot my nail gun and chop saw so I didnt get to build the support knee walls yet. I will have to bring down my propane heaters and warm the hull to get the foam and remaining deck out.

This week I plan to make the engine stand at home and bring it down assembled.

A few observations:

- The bow boxes are in excellent condition I would like to leave them and just lay a new floor between them. This will be difficult because they cantilever over the stringers. I would have to maybe cut the existing floor flush with the boxes and reach under and shim out the stringer for support of the floor.

- The floor itself is not very wide in this boat. It quickly turns to tabbing on the hull as seen in the photo below

Questions:

Any estimate what that engine would weigh? I dont have an engine hoist. Does anyone think a few guys and a few beers would lift it off?

 

[Arawak]

Any estimate what that engine would weigh? I dont have an engine hoist. Does anyone think a few guys and a few beers would lift it off?

Carefully, yes. Engine hoist is much better, but you'd need to make or find a lifting bracket.

I can't see what HP engine is on the boat but I'd guess it's an 85-ish? Early 90s should still be a Chrysler under that Force cowling so I'd guess it's a 4 cylinder which would make it about 300lbs. Three strong guys -- before they've had their beers -- should be able to do that.

 

[rickryder]

Or rent an engine hoist at your local auto parts store.

 

[brianq]

Finally back on the boat project! Happy Memorial day to everyone!

As of this weekend I have the whole floor out, seats, trim everything out. I just have to sand down the tabs from the old floor.


I have drilled into the stringers quite a bit and the shavings are dry. The glass over them seems super thick. Im considering leaving them or putting additional next to them. I will replace the bulk heads? they are toast. Thoughts?


got the motor off with the help of a few neighbors. One of which suggested a SS transom plate instead of removing the whole thing. Thoughts?

We removed the motor because the steering cable is fuzzed to the threaded pipe that the outboard pivots on. Anyway to free it or do I need a new steering cable?

I had wanted to put in a gas tank but the original stringers are only 2 1/2" inches high. the lowest profile tank I have found is around 7". Doubling the height will make the floor line up way higher. Im leaving the seat boxes so thats not really an option.

No pictures I rushed home to avoid holiday traffic.