False alarm! Now I picked up a 1986 Force 125 to go with my 1972 120

home-boy

Banned
Joined
Aug 10, 2014
Messages
209
I have a 1972 Chrysler 120 that was running like a champ.

I was tuning and cleaning the other evening and got pulled away. I left the cover off and it poured down rain all night.

I left the cover off for 2 days in the sun hoping to dry everything out but now I have no spark. :(

It is dry inside the dist cap.

How do I find my missing spark?
 
Last edited:

MickLovin

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 18, 2013
Messages
822
Hopefully you didn't leave the ignition on when it was out in the rain. Does it have points or is it an optical dizzy? Does yours have a circuit breaker installed on it, located near the cable terminal block? Send pics of your type of ignition, is it magnapower with optical eye in the dizzy or a set of points in the dizzy? I have a manual which has a step by step process for troubleshooting, le me know what type of ignition it is.
 

home-boy

Banned
Joined
Aug 10, 2014
Messages
209
Update! Made myself a makeshift coil wire spark tester and got nothing when turning over the engine by hand.

When I disconnect the white w/ black wire from the distributor and touched it to ground I get spark. I suspect the points but they look new.
 

home-boy

Banned
Joined
Aug 10, 2014
Messages
209
I think I figured it out. when I manually open the points I got spark but not when turning the engine.

I believe that the previous owner failed to tighten the screws that hold the points in position. After tinkering with the setting I got it to start.

Now off to buy some feeler gauges.
 

NYBo

Admiral
Joined
Oct 23, 2008
Messages
7,107
Nice detective work, Holmes! BTW, kudos on that immaculate motor.
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
See, you didn't do anything dumb....it was the previous owner that did something dumb! That's who I'd blame it on...LOL!
 

home-boy

Banned
Joined
Aug 10, 2014
Messages
209
I'm hoping that there will be plenty of interchange/upgrade potential between the 2.

It supposedly runs great (I know they always say that) It has tilt, nice controls, steering cable, 11 life jackets, ropes, trolling motor and more for $340 and an old pistol. Did I do OK? I need lots of those parts anyway.
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Use the 1986 engine as the primary engine (if it is running well) since it does not have a distributor and the lower unit is good for at least 3 MPH more. Additionally, it has bigger carbs and is rated 125 at the prop while the 1972 is rated at the powerhead. The 125 will make the 120 look sick. Props are not compatible because splines are different. Ignitions are not swappable unless you modify the top of the block. Lower units are not swappable. However, all cowlings , transom clamps, and power tilt/trim are swappable. Pistons and rods are swappable. Carbs are swappable IF you also use the same manifolds that they are already mounted on. Starter and heads are interchangeable as are engine wiring terminals, solenoids etc. If you use the 1986 125 as your primary engine, you must change the wiring at the ignition switch: Blue attached to one "M" terminal and white attached to the other "M" terminal. Other than that, all wiring is the same.
 

home-boy

Banned
Joined
Aug 10, 2014
Messages
209
Dang I was hoping more compatibility. My wife will skin me if she finds out not much is in common :(

I have not heard the 125 run. I figured the sum of the parts was worth the price. My 120 runs good and someone already added new fuel lines and ignition parts, even a new dist cap and wires
 

NYBo

Admiral
Joined
Oct 23, 2008
Messages
7,107
...is rated 125 at the prop while the 1972 is rated at the powerhead.
I have read that Force motors were rated at the powerhead until some time in the 1990s. Clearly, that's wrong based on your statement. What was the actual year?
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
I forget the exact year but around 1982-1984 the NMMA required that ALL outboards were to be rated for horsepower at the prop. However, up until Brunswick started putting Mercury components onto and into Force engines they still could not keep up with Mercury and OMC. Afterward, with Mercury ignition and other components they became more competitive.
 

home-boy

Banned
Joined
Aug 10, 2014
Messages
209
OK, I guess I'll install the 125 first. It has a 13 pitch prop so I guess I better look for a more compatible one. The 120 had a 21 on it and was on a boat similar to mine.
 

home-boy

Banned
Joined
Aug 10, 2014
Messages
209
I do wish to use the Chrysler cover and at least the upper part of the cowing that has the cover latch. How do I get that piece of cowling off? Does it go over the top?

I hope I'm not messing up, the Force looks a lot rougher all over. Someone made a mess with silicone all over.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
17,927
Most use a 17 or 19p prop.
What size boat?
A 21 is usually used on small and boats that go fast.
A 13 on pontoons or bigger boats.
Where are you located?
Someone close might have a prop you can test with.
 

home-boy

Banned
Joined
Aug 10, 2014
Messages
209
Hey Frank I have a question about the wiring

Here is the switch that came with the 120












It looks like the white wire is on the M terminal and the blue wire is on a terminal that doesn't look marked. The 120 engine says white should be tach on the engine.

I'm not hooking it up until I figure this mess out
 

home-boy

Banned
Joined
Aug 10, 2014
Messages
209
I have the switch that came with the Force too. They have the purple and orange tied together




 

Steverino74

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 29, 2014
Messages
44
These are wiring pics I have for my Force 125. I think I owe credit to someone on this board for one if not both? wiring 2.jpg F5H268.png
 
Top