120 Force Outboard (1999 Model) - No Spark?

jburdadams

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
41
I had issues as usual back in June with flooding, etc but fixed them (thanks to everyone's help, and a fuel/water filter seperator) and now have what appears to be a spark problem. New plugs were installed in June as well, and ran fine since then. Checked them just now and cleaned them - they weren't fouled. is there anything that could be damaging the plugs or something else i should check? engine spins fine and there's fuel, but it won't even 'cough' thanks in advance!
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
First thing you want to double check for no spark is to make sure you Kill Switch lanyard is attached or if you have a switch, make sure it's set to the "RUN" position. If that checks out, Then you need to check for spark at the plugs.
One way is to use an in-line spark checker like the one below.

http://www.harborfreight.com/inline-...ker-69014.html

Disconnect the Black/Yellow wire on the coil mounting plate. If spark returns, then you have a short to ground in the wiring of you Kill circuit, or the Kill switch itself may be bad.

If you do confirm that you do not have any spark on any of the plugs, it could be several things. The Stator could be bad, the magnets under the flywheel have broken or come unglued and may be missing, or one of the coil packs, referred to as CDMs may be bad and preventing any of the other CDMs from firing. If the magnets under the flywheel look OK (there are six of them), you can check the stator winding resistance.

Disconnect the Green/White and White/Green stator wires that come out from under the flywheel. Measure the resistance across the wires. It should read 500 - 700 OHMs. If it doesn't read within specs., it's bad. If it reads with specs. go to the next step.

Each CDM has a 4 pin modular connector. Disconnect the connector that is attached to the top CDM. Crank the motor and check for spark on the other three spark plug wires. Do that to all four CDMs until you find one that when disconnected, restores spark to the other three spark plug wires. That's the bad CDM.
 
Last edited:

jburdadams

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
41
will take it a step at a time and see what happens, and i'll be back in touch. thanks for getting back to me quickly!
 

jburdadams

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
41
indicator light will not light up on any of the plugs. will check your recommendation on the coil mounting plate, yellow/black wires....Where exactly is that located? can't readily tell using my Clymer manual. thanks
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
Each CDM has a Black/Yellow wire that comes out of the 4 pin modular connector located on the bottom of the CDM. All 4 wires are tied together and terminated with a round bullet connector, which is connected to the wiring harness right on the coil mounting plate.

Follow one of the Black/Yellow wires from the CDM and you'll see the connector. It may be on the opposite side of the coil mounting plate so you can't see it. Once you find the bullet connect where all 4 wires are terminated, pull the bullet connector apart and check for spark. If still no spark, then check the stator next.

If you do get spark, then you have a short to ground on your Kill circuit, or maybe a bad kill switch.
 

jburdadams

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
41
Per your suggestions, here's the outcome:
"Disconnect the Black/Yellow wire on the coil mounting plate" - done - spark does not return. "Disconnect the Green/White and White/Green stator wires that come out from under the flywheel. Measure the resistance across the wires. It should read 500 - 700 OHMs". - I'm not getting any resistance - multimeter stays on 1 (Red probe on wire connector, black to ground - right?) I also checked the CDMs as you suggested and no spark. I'll remove the flywheel and check the magnets, but beginning to look like a bad stator? thanks
 

jburdadams

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
41
sorry ...... still only get a 1 on the readout, with setting at lowest 200, and even at higher settings. thanks for straightening me out
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
+1 what NYBo stated.

[Disconnect the Green/White and White/Green stator wires that come out from under the flywheel. Measure the resistance across the wires. It should read 500 - 700 OHMs. If it doesn't read within specs., it's bad. If it reads with specs. go to the next step./QUOTE]

Red meter lead on either Green/White or White/Green, the Black lead on the other. This particular stator does not have a connection that goes to ground.

To check the magnets you can usually just look under the flywheel. I may be wrong, but I don't think it's really necessary to remove the flywheel. To make it easier to turn the flywheel to inspect the magnets while it's on the motor, remove the spark plugs. That way you can grab the flywheel and turn it by hand.
 

jburdadams

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
41
ok - i can see the stator assembly - red, plastic coated....trigger and magnets apparently underneath, so i'll have to removed (pull) the flywheel.. what kind of damage am i looking for, cracks, etc? thanks again
 

dneedham

Cadet
Joined
Sep 15, 2012
Messages
22
Did you verify your kill switch was working correctly? I didn't see where you checked it.
 

jburdadams

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
41
I disconnected the yellow/black and still got no spark - i'm pretty sure that was the test for the kill switch. (I did check the obvious connection to the lanyard) any other suggestions?
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
Disconnecting the Black/Yellow wire at the CDM connection completely disables the ignition Kill circuit.

Yes, looks like the stator is bad. You may not see any visible damage to the stator.

CDI Electronics makes an aftermarket replacement. P/N 176-2075K 2 NOTE: Resistance Of the CDI replacement stator is 400 - 600 OHMs. Slightly different than the OEM stator.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-2010-30...412d5c&vxp=mtr
 
Last edited:

jburdadams

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
41
wow! thanks for the link. significantly better price than i expected. i really appreciate everyone's help. will do the replacement in the near future and post the results.
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
Just make sure you make a note on how the original stator is oriented as far as where the wires on the stator are located. Install the replacement in the same position.
 

jburdadams

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
41
I wanted to give everyone an update. I finally replaced the stator and it runs great. I cross-referenced the stator using Crowley Marine's website, and ordered a CDI unit from an Amazon Seller. I used some PB Blaster to loosen the flywheel, then put pulling pressure using a puller purchased from Harbor Freight. Popped right off after a little while. I wanted to thank everyone for the help. I used everyone's tips and suggestions which resulted in an easy fix. I'm headed for the lake one more time while it's in the 80s down here in Georgia. May i won't need you folks this coming summer, but i know where to find you if i do. thanks again.
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
Thanks for getting back and letting everyone know the final outcome. Happy boating!
 
Top