1990 90HP Force Outboard starting issues

[Tonykilla85]

I just rebuilt my 90 HP Force power head, all new gaskets. Everything has been put back together, and when I get ready to start her it will not start!?!
1. I have a brand new battery

2. I have checked the compression on the cylinders.
91lbs top
93lbs middle
96lds bottom

3. The Motor is timed.

4. I am getting spark to all ignition wires.

The only thing I can think is missing to run is the fuel. Any advise on timing the carburetors to get the motor to start you be appreciated. This is my first time working on a outboard and I am lost. Please Help so I don't have to waste extra money paying shop labor. Pic's would be great! Thanks!!! Tony

 

[deerslayer303]

A rebuilt powerhead with less than 100 psi on the cylinders? Seems low to me. But nevertheless it should run with that kind of compression. When you pump the fuel bulb can you hear fuel filling the float bowls? is the choke working?

 

[Jiggz]

Did you follow proper torque procedures for the head?

Anyways, first you need to invest in a $5 G2 (W-mart has 'em and already comes with hose clamps) type clear fuel filter and then install it between the fuel pump and the carb inlet. Follow basic starting procedures: Prime the fuel until the bulb is firm and making sure the clear fuel filter is at least 3/4 full. Place control lever in fast idle. There are two ways to do this depending on the style of your control lever. Either push a center button and push forward the lever or pull it out towards the driver and push forward. Push and turn the ignition to choke and start the motor. DO NOT ENGAGE STARTER for more than 10 secs at a time. Do not choke more than two times as this can flood the carb. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE COOLING WATER CONNECTED.

If motor will not start still. Get a spray bottle and fill it with fuel oil mix. While cranking on the engine, spray fuel mix directly into the carb. Motor should at least cough or sneeze like it is trying to start. If not then you most likely have electrical or spark problems.

 

[Tonykilla85]

Yes the fuel is pumping into the bulbs. The choke is working correctly...
I have also installed a filter before the carbs. (sorry I forgot to put that in my first post)

I will attempt to start her later this evening and see how it goes. Thanks for the post!

I assume that if the carb. bulbs are getting fuel there should be nothing else restricting fuel from entering the cylinders?

 

[jjack010]

Make sure fuel is flowing in the correct direction through the fuel filter. Most are directional. If the motor doesn't attempt to start after following the procedures outlined above, squirt a little fuel mix into each cylinder then attempt to start. If you are positive you're getting spark I'd check the fuel pressure also.

 

[Tonykilla85]

I know the fuel is flowing in the correct direction. I will try and spray fuel into the cylinders later this evening and see if that does anything different...
I should add when I bought the boat in March of this year the original motor (with the old power head) was starting/running. It was running on 2 cylinders, with no compression on the bottom cylinder. All electrical parts were used off the original motor, stator, coil packs, ect. So i'm sure all electrical systems are working correctly minus the fuel pump.
Like I said I will try to start it again and see what happens.
Any advise on troubleshooting the fuel pump? Metering or would I need to buy some type of in line pressure gauge? What would the ideal psi?

 

[pnwboat]

Fuel pump pressure should be around 4 or 5PSI and that will vary depending on RPM's. Spraying fuel/oil mixture into the cylinders will help in determining if the fuel delivery is the problem. It should pop, back fire or make some kind of noise when the spark ignites the fuel mixture.

NOTE: I was asked to look at a motor that someone had just rebuilt and wouldn't start. Everything (spark, timing, carbs etc) checked out just fine except that they forgot to install the reed valve blocks under the carburetors.

 

[Tonykilla85]

Lol I am 99% sure the reed valves are in, but now that you bring it up it makes me want to check... Will the motor still "pop back fire or make some kind of noise when the spark ignites the fuel mixture" if the reed valves are not under the carbs?

 

[Jiggz]

The draw back of squirting fuel mix directly into the cylinder is you are at the mercy of one spark getting into the cylinder when starting. Unlike spraying into the carbs which give you more than just 1 chance for a combustion cycle to happen. Additionally, it also tests the reeds condition to make sure they are at least operational. On the otherhand, spraying fuel mix into the carbs require a two man operation unless you have a remote starter.

 

[Tonykilla85]

I do have the reeds installed in the power head. Waiting for the battery to charge, then i'm going to give her a go...

 

[Tonykilla85]

When looking over my extra parts I noticed I have 2 exhaust tubes... Would a power head w/o an exhaust tub attached cause the motor not to start?

 

[Jiggz]

Without the exhaust tube, it should still should try to sneeze or ran for a few seconds until the exhaust starts building back pressure into the cylinder. But for sure you will definitely need to take the power head off again and install the exhaust tube.

 

[Tonykilla85]

That's what I was thinking, but not what I wanted to hear. Thanks for the info Jiggz.

 

[Tonykilla85]

***UPDATE***
The choke seems to work when it wants. When the battery is charged it works a few times, then sounds like it is trying but it's unable to pull in. Clod starting did nothing but spin...
When spraying fuel into the carbs I got her to cough and back fire. Any ideals would be appreciated.
I plan on installing the exhaust tube tomorrow, weather permitting.

 

[Jiggz]

The cough and backfires is a good sign that you do not have electrical problem. Instead you have fuel related problem with the carbs, assuming your clear fuel filter stays full or at least 3/4 full. Time to check the linkage making sure the throttles are in synch, idle screw set for initial starting and the idle mixture screw 1 turn out from lightly seated on all carbs. When starting, make sure you have the control lever in fast idle position to give it some "gas" while starting.

As for the choke's not holding up while starting, spray WD-40 on the solenoid and make sure the battery is fully charged and still holding good charge. A sure sign of a battery getting weak on holding charge is the choke solenoid dropping when when the starter engages. Or in an extreme cases, what I do is have another person do the starting while you are holding up the choke.

 

[Tonykilla85]

Sounds like a plan for tomorrow. I found the location of the idle screw on the carbs. What do you mean control lever in fast idle position? Didn't know there was anything more then forward, neutral or reverse?

 

[Jiggz]

Fast idle is when you push the control lever forward opening the throttles a little bit (usually idles the motor around 2000 RPM) without engaging it in gear. This is usually done in two ways. One is for control levers with center push button. Pushing the button allows you to push the control lever forward thus giving it more throttle (or gas) without engaging the gear. The other type, does not have center push button, instead it requires the driver to pull out the lever (from the center) towards the driver and pushing it forward. This is used for cold starting while at the same time engaging the choke system. As soon as the motor starts, let is warm up in about 20~30 secs and you can pull back on the control lever to place it back in normal idle speed.

 

[Tonykilla85]

Thanks for the info, I will post back results in a few hours.

 

[Tonykilla85]

Well the exhaust tube is back on and the power head is all put together and linkages set.
I also tried to adjust the carbs but I am still not seeing any difference.
I was not able to adjust throttle to "fast idle" anywhere past neutral and the neutral safety switch disengages.

 

[Jiggz]

Try a two man rule. Have someone crank the motor while holding the choke up and the carb linkage opened half way (do this with the the carb linkage). Just make sure you do not flood the carbs with the choke. As soon as you see fuel oil spitting out of the carbs, cease choking (no more than two times) but continue to hold the carb throttles opened at least 1/3 of the way.

Can you post a pic of your control lever?