force 85 coil pack

[newtoj1]

Had the boat at the lake a few weeks ago and noticed an occasional hesitation at wide open throttle. After going back to idle then neutral it would bog down when I punched it then suddenly accelerate and plane out. It would only do this occasionally, maybe once over 5 or 6 attempts. The hesitation at WOT became more frequent before I headed toward the ramp.
a few months ago I replaced the fuel lines, squeeze ball, in-tank filter and installed a glass filter. Based on the behaviour described above i assumed fuel delivery issue and took the carbs apart, cleaned, installed with new gaskets. When I cranked it up in the driveway it revved up high then quit. I tried to start again with no success, checked the spark and had no spark from #3. noticed rust on that plug, when I pulled the plug wire it came apart, wire connected to spark plug boot was rusted through. Fixed that and tried again, now getting no spark from #1 or #3. These are both fed from the coil pack closest to the bow (#1?), when I plug both of the into the other coil pack I get good spark.
Priced the coil pack here at iboats and other sources (CDI Force Type Ignition 116-5301), range from $280 - $350. I found a used one on eBay for $85.

2 questions;
1. Does the issue sound like replacing the coil pack will resolve the spark issue or should I be looking at other electrical components as well?
2. Is there a better (Cheaper) source for these coil packs? Would you be hesitant about the used one on eBay? (ok, three questions)

Thanks!

Josh

 

[bentzima83]

I would guess that you are saying coil pack, you mean CDI, or power pack. The pack you are referring to, towards the front fires 1 and 2, the second one fires only cylinder 3. I just had one go bad on mine, caused no spark to cyl 1. I swapped the leads coming off the box to the coil and the miss moved to cylinder 2. I checked the stator and trigger, then found a used box (on ebay) for 62.50. it fixed my spark issue. I replaced all those crappy spark wire ends on the plug wires with the heavier duty automotive style crimp on ends with boots. That's a much more positive connection than the springy wire connector on them from the factory. I would look at those first for a no spark condition.

I would go back and look at your carburetors since it ran prior to you cleaning them, maybe something simple is wrong there causing some of the issue, not the no spark issue though, unfortunately.

I then had to figure out a fuel delivery problem that sounds similar to what you had. I replaced the ball, lines and pickup in the tank. Luckily I took care of my issue and enjoyed a sunset cruise last night.

I just bought this thing, so i'm not super familiar with these motors, but I'll help you through anything I can.

 

[SkiDad]

outboard ignition .com makes anything you need. Good quality too. I think there coils require a splice, but I don't think they go bad often - but that bad boot is a concern b/c it might have arced and popped your power pack. I recently got a power pack from them and it solved my issue. As Ben has said you can swap the leads like he said b/c maybe only 1/2 the power pack is dead - there are troubleshooting guides on the website I mentioned - they are accurate tests.

I think i might take a chance on ebay from a place that sells lot of parts. But make sure you do your tests so you know what you need to replace.

http://www.outboardignition.com/forcesearch.asp?cat=itemname&cval=3&hval=30&val=6

 

[jerryjerry05]

Lots of times the problem is the wires from the pack or stator and trigger the connectors need replacing.
You need to specify the year???
The mid 80's had the plugin packs the newer has the screw down connectors.

You can throw parts at it or do the tests recommended by the others. Outboard ignition . com has great info.

 

[newtoj1]

Argh! More confusion, hope you guys can get me straight.

Did a lot of switching/testing before I ordered the new switch box. After driving my 10-year old crazy ("OK, turn the key...$%#*, WAIT UNTIL I SAY GO!!!) at the ignition switch I have determined:
Switch Box #1 (closest to bow), ORANGE wire is DEAD, cannot produce spark to any coil when ORANGE is connected. RED wire is live, produces spark when connected to any coil.
Switch Box #2 (closest to stern), ORANGE wire is live, produces spark when connected to any coil, RED wire is live, produces spark when connected to any coil.

According to the attached ignition diagram SB #1 provides power to coils #1 and 2, SB#3 provides power to coil #3. If I follow this method I have no spark at #1 coil or #3, I do have spark at coil #2. I can get spark to all 3 coils by connecting SB#1 - RED to any coil then connecting SB#2 - RED and ORANGE to the other 2 coils.

So, novice mechanic but willing to jump in and learn, my instinct says timing is critical i.e. just because I found a configuration that provides spark to all 3 does not mean that will work. Another rookie mistake, I did not take a picture of how mine was wired before I started switching leads but I am 90% confident it DID NOT MATCH the wiring diagram.

Any help is greatly appreciated!!!

Josh

 

[SkiDad]

I'm not sure I following you fully but I do know that the one on the right is CD 1 and the one on the left is CD 2