carb and tuning 115hp 1978

Frank Acampora

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You don't need the tail cone but you do need the thrust pin. HOWEVER, the tail cone holds in the thrust pin.SO: You can take a long 5/16 stainless Allen head screw and cut off most of the threads. Then, take a 5/16 nut and grind one flat to clear the prop. Screw in the Allen head bolt.. The bolt you buy should have ABOUT 1 1/2 inches unthreaded--or the diameter of the hub where the pin goes through.
 

comet424

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ok not sure what you mean do you have a pic??

my idea was I put this castle washer on from my 200 merc, as it fits nice then a washer then them some lock tite on the threads and tighten the nut down and just put a cotton pin in the end so the nut doesn't come off

but if you have a pick or so that would help

and can you tell me what mark I should be on that decal since I got that lever screw to set it the distributor right

is it at the 32 mark? and is that the first pic the 32 mark so I adjust the setting till it fires the spark
 

comet424

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that is what I have going on but your example you have a pic it be great to see then I can understand it better
 

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comet424

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ok so here is the setup I have

you see 2 yellow marks I drew in paint

far right the first tick mark would be TDC I not sure what the other mark is for but that is where when I set it. the distrubtor T mark was in the teeth like in the one other video

now the other mark is I set for 32 degrees and I slightly turned the screw till I got 12 volts with the mulitmeter, as I didn't have anything to ground the 4 spark plugs so I pulled the ignition coil wire off and grounded it, and muliti meter across the blow and blackwhite wire
 

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comet424

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ill try tomorrow with power off and the spark plugs out and using screw driver if maybe whoever had this engine had it wrong and that the TDC should line up to that other mark? where it says PMH whatever the PMH stands for
 

comet424

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hi
so this morning I tried the screw driver and to set to the TDC mark on that decal instead of the first tick mark, now I cant really feel it much of a movement so I figure it should be at that arrow for TDC then right?? what does the PMH mean


now setting that to the arrow is this the right spot for the T mark on the distrubtor or does it need adjustment before I do the fine adjustment
 

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comet424

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so I think I did it correct where the 32 mark is on that decal wehre I pointed the yellow I adjusted the set screw that it just comes on 15 volts well 12 im using a battery charger. and when I press on the belt you here the cdi box make the crackling noise and power is off and when released comes back on 12 volts.

so I guess that is set correctly.

can you now tell me more details or a picture of your allan key setup

another idea I was thinking was your allan key idea is

you tighten the nut down

your use allen key and you measure the distance from the hole to the nut and you cut the length of allen key so the bent short end goes into the hole and the shaft butts up against the nut, and then u put a SS hose clamp around the allen key and shaft to keep t tight against the shaft
 

comet424

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re looking at that decal is that arrow pointing in right spot for the 32 degrees or should it be more over to the next little tick mark and that tooth be in the center of the alignment mark and then adjust the distributor to that spot
 

comet424

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You don't need the tail cone but you do need the thrust pin. HOWEVER, the tail cone holds in the thrust pin.SO: You can take a long 5/16 stainless Allen head screw and cut off most of the threads. Then, take a 5/16 nut and grind one flat to clear the prop. Screw in the Allen head bolt.. The bolt you buy should have ABOUT 1 1/2 inches unthreaded--or the diameter of the hub where the pin goes through.

so re reading this today, basicly you just run a screw through the Pin hole and put a nut on the end. can I just just get a bolt and tighten in? with a sholder on it??
then it just slides in and out of the hole then right? or put a bolt with a nut on both sides of the bolt on the shaft

but wont stop it from unthreading though right


and can you double check my pic which would be the right 32 degree mark the yellow line or the one over
 

Frank Acampora

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I mistakenly read into your reply that you had an 18 spline pin drive 2 piece lower unit. From the photos, I see you actually have a one piece lower unit with a 15 spline shaft and thrust washer behind the prop. It will work as you have it set up and I have never seen a nylock prop nut loosen. But for safety--if it makes you feel better, you can put a 3/8 cotter pin through the hole in the shaft or you can use a 10-32 bolt. Either one will prevent the nut from falling off the shaft if it should by some chance loosen.. In any case, the tail cone is about 30 bucks (on ebay) but is not necessary. The engine performance will be the same with or without it.

With the throttle in wide open position, the 32 degree mark would be the one on the left.
 

comet424

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oh ok thanks wasn't sure what you were meaning and ill add a little blue locktite just to make sure as I don't have that nut fully tightend on so not sure if it makes the threads to the nylon and ill do that adding a bolt then in that hole

and ok can you look up the the 2nd last post with the fly wheel pic I have reason is ya I at the 32 mark

but the issue is those marks are like smeared it looks possibly like 2 marks for 32??
I like to know if im pointing at the right 32 mark or if its the one 1/4" beside it or less


and to learn more about how to figure out how to know how many teeth make up 32 degrees how you do that. You mentioned you take number of teeth and divide it by 360 and that gives you a number and what does that number represent? as I wanted to try that too but not sure after counting and dividing how to know how many teeth is 32 and 36

and thanks for you help so far I really appreciate it going to test it today
 

comet424

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here I re posted the image and marked it

right now I have it timed to the RED line, but is the 32 degree mark is it where I have the RED line or the BLUE Line
 

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Nordin

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You can check the sparkadvance timing 32dgr BTDC. Count how many tooth the flywheel has. Divide it with 360 and you now have how many tooth it is for 1dgr. Multiply with 32 and you have how many tooth 32 dgr are.
Zero is when the #1 piston is at TDC, you can check it by putting a screwdriver in the top (#1 cyl.) hole. Turn the flywheel clockwise and stop when the screwdriver stops to move upwards.
Now the decal TDC arrow should point at the mark on the blockpointer.
Count how many tooth you got in the above calculation to the left of the TDC arrow/blockpointer. There you have 32 dgr BTDC and it should be at the 32 dgr arrow at the flywheel decal.

Your engine should be timed 32 dgr BTDC at WOT static, it gives you 30 dgr BTDC when running
 

comet424

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ok so I counted 97 teeth
so I divde 97 into 360 and I get 0.2694444 then I mulitipled by 32 to get 8.6222222

is that correct

so in the image the Yellow mark is where I figure 8.6 is, is that correct?
the Blue line is where I started counting 1

and the two Yellow marks is where I find I cant tell which is really TDC but I going by the decal,

as when I took the engine apart the first Yellow mark not pointing to TDC and the distrubtor T lined up from the earlier pics I sent
 

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comet424

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or actually I gues the .6 would be half of the tooth and where I marked the yellow would be like .4
 

Nordin

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Looks right and at this point the #1 sparkplug should spark with the advance at WOT.
Check with a plug and the ign.switch in ON position. Ground all plugs and push at the dist.belt and #1 should spark.
 

comet424

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oh ok well I don't have anything to ground the spark plugs so what I did from another video was you ground the ignition coil, and run a multi meter over the 2 points on the distrubtor and I set the fly wheel (currently I set it up to) whats in the pic it points at the RED line

and I adjusted the set screw so it just fires. giving 12 volts, on the meter and when I press the on the belt on the ignition coil side it drops the voltage down to 0.1 and then released back to 12 volts

I just wanna verify then if that RED mark I just marked if that's the proper spot for 8.6


and if it was wrong what happens to the engine?? and what does PMH stand for??
 

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comet424

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ok so I went and tested and had a ***** of a time to get it started as I had when I re built the engine basically I had put litum grease in each cylinder so wasn't firing

but I finally got it to go there is some issues

1 is the side where the flat cover is that has the sticker for the electrical wiring setup near the top one of those bolts water is coming through that . do I have to put a new gasket on it or can I just put a sealant on the bolt


2nd is I bought this new mini kokota alternator battery charger to charge a deep cycle battery

when I had it activated and im use a Faria Volt meter, I have it on the Generator Wire , so when it was running it bounce up to 16 volts and down to 12 so I unhooked it for now

but it stays at 12 volts when I increase the speed of the engine the volt meter goes below 12 volts

also if I put a mulitmeter across the battery terminals it makes my mulitmeter flash not give the continuous voltage

is something wire wrong?????


but I have to say it runs much nicer now since I re built it and reset the carb etc
 

comet424

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I unhooked the generator wire and seems alternator doesn't charge at 500 rpms idling it does seem to charge at about 800 rpms so basically you gotta drive fast?? to charge?? is there no other way to charge while its idling

and with the generator wrie off muliti meter doesn't go glitchy so what is basically wrong
 

comet424

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here some pics and I guess post a video too

but here is couple pics you see the water. and same side behind that cover what is there as you can hear its knocking is that normal? I have it in the video I need to post then
 

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