Force 125 tilt/trim question on 87 Bayliner Bass Boat

RGB4545

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There are two cylinders and which one is trim and which one is tilt. The one on the right appears to have a slow leak as the outside of the cylinder is very dirty. Also the motor will very slowly move down from a full tilt. The trim will also very slowly go down. It will trim out and then tilt all the way up with no problem so I guess the pump is okay. ??
I had the boat out last week and it runs great, 35 MPH at about 5000 RPM.

Thoughts, suggestions and ideas are all welcome about using the boat with the motor all the way down. :confused:
 

Jiggz

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Re: Force 125 tilt/trim question on 87 Bayliner Bass Boat

What you need is probably to replace the o-rings on the spool valves. There are two spool valves and you will at least need two o-rings to fix the leak down. Try searching this forum for "tilt and trim" and you should find one with pics from PNW and the part numbers for the o-rings, which are actually needle seat or some B&S carburetors but works perfectly.
 

jerryjerry05

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Re: Force 125 tilt/trim question on 87 Bayliner Bass Boat

The 2 cylinders, one is a shock the other the tilt cylinder.
The trim is the part in the center.
The manual has procedures for testing the unit.
Pretty easy to do.
You can use the motor while it's down but the performance isin't the best.
 

RGB4545

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Re: Force 125 tilt/trim question on 87 Bayliner Bass Boat

Same subject but different question. I plan to put bolts through the hole to get the proper trim but cannot decide if I should use the 3rd or 4th hole for the trim setting. This will be well I'm looking for a good used unit which may be hard to find or parts for a rebuild.
 

Jiggz

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Re: Force 125 tilt/trim question on 87 Bayliner Bass Boat

Which hole to use to permanently trim the motor is a matter of testing and experience. But for starters, it is usually the hole that places the motor perpendicular with the boat's hull. As for replacing spool valves o-rings, it is really very easy and should take no more than 3 hours to do. What takes longer is the the ordering of the o-rings themselves.
 

Frank Acampora

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Re: Force 125 tilt/trim question on 87 Bayliner Bass Boat

Use 1/2 inch diameter stainless bolts about 2 1/2 inches long. Too long and the nuts inside will not seat all the way down. You want the unthreaded portion of the bolt to be no longer than the thickness of the transom clamp. Buy two stainless couplers--they will be about 1 1/2 -2 inches long and threaded all the way through. Use them in place of nuts. The bosses on the swivel yoke will bear against them nicely.

If Fastenal is out there, you can buy the couplers there.
 

RGB4545

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Re: Force 125 tilt/trim question on 87 Bayliner Bass Boat

Jiggz , <As for replacing spool valves o-rings, it is really very easy and should take no more than 3 hours to do. What takes longer is the the ordering of the o-rings themselves.>Are these rings you speak of located in tilt cylinder or in the pump?

Frank, I put the bolts in the 3rd hole and will just have to put the boat in the water to see if that is okay.
I also located a used pump and tilt cylinder and plan to make an offer on it.

The pump on my boat has been worked on so I found out and looks like it was put back together with spit and chewing gum. Surprised it works at all.
Thanks for the expert advice fellows. :)
 

RGB4545

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Re: Force 125 tilt/trim question on 87 Bayliner Bass Boat

Here are two photos, one of the leaking cylinder and one of the Pump. Notice the brass fittings that have been used, it is my guess that the threads had been stripped so had to redo using the larger brass reducer. Inside the red oval you can see all the what I think is JB Weld that was used when it was put back together. The filler plug had JB weld around it also.
Mu fault for not looking closer. MY 90HP Force on my older 71 Silverline never had any leaks or problems with the trim/tilt so was not concerned in that area.DSCN0048.jpg
 

Jiggz

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Re: Force 125 tilt/trim question on 87 Bayliner Bass Boat

If the motor, trim and tilt cylinder on this system are still working pretty good, all you need is to replace the valve body which you can get for less than $100, although they are the Asian type and usually do not last that long. So the next option is to buy a used original valve body and o-haul it if required. On the pics, I wonder why they used JB or some sort of epoxy between the reservoir and valve body when all it requires is a simple O-ring to seal it? And because the worker probably wasn't knowlegeable enough, he crossed thread all the female fittings. If you have to do this work yourself next time, make sure you first thread in all (both ends of each tubing) fittings by hand at least 3-4 full turns and then try tightening them all by hands first before using a wrench. IT IS QUITE VERY EASY TO CROSS THREAD THESE FITTINGS.
 

watersport 1

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Aug 17, 2009
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I have the same situation as 87 Bayliner.The tilt will go up and down, but the piston on the trim will not go down. I have to push the motor down. Once down, the trim will not come up with the switch while the boat is moving in the water. Once out of the water, I can hit the switch and the tilt/trim will go up slow then faster once it is above the trim piston.
 
Last edited:

jerryjerry05

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That pic, looks like silicone was used to seal the pump to the housing.
The housings isn't made from the hardest of metals and the threads can actually get eaten away.
Thus the oversize fitting.Actually a good job!! It worked.
Watersport you should start a different thread and it will get the replies you need.
 

watersport 1

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Thank you jerrjerry05. Yes, I thought I needed to post a different thread, but I cannot find the + new post sign. What part of the page is the new thread section on?
 
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