1989 Force 125hp outboard & its rookie owner :)

[adamjoelmusic]

hey there guys! first off... thanks for all the help so far on this forum! you guys have been a real super help - i am fairly mechanical and can do just about anything i am told mechanically but this outboard is new for me and I'm slightly lost on the old stuff -

that said.... I'm wondering about water cooling system on this one ... when i sit just idling, i see NO water coming out of anywhere... when i manually rev up the RPM's i get a little spurt of water out of the 2 small holes in the back of the motor just below the cowling cover (exhaust?)

i noticed after sitting for around 10 minutes idling last night that the motor was unusually hot.... after removing the lower unit and inspecting the impeller, everything "appears" to be working properly ...

thoughts...


thanks

 

[pnwboat]

Re: 1989 Force 125hp outboard & its rookie owner

If you're using the muffs with a hose, it's sometimes hard to get the water outlet on the muffs lined up correctly with the water intakes on the lower end. Most muffs don't fit very well on the bullet shaped part of the lower end, so most of the water from the hose does not get sucked up the water pump. If you're using a container of water, the water level needs to be well above the water intake.

 

[gregmsr]

Re: 1989 Force 125hp outboard & its rookie owner

Get you a large container/trash can/plastic livestock water tank or something the lower unit will fit into. Fill with water.
Make sure its deep enough (water level well above the exhaust and cavation plate).
This works better than muffs in driveway (I have no luck with muffs, too much trouble taping duct tape......
This will ensure a good water supply to the impeller. Never start the engine without a good water supply.

 

[SkiDad]

Re: 1989 Force 125hp outboard & its rookie owner

change the impeller and gasket - it can look good and not work well - i had to do that when I got mine and it didn't show that much wear.

 

[MickLovin]

Re: 1989 Force 125hp outboard & its rookie owner

I use a big esky/cooler, it is deep enough to have the water pump below the surface of the water. When I bought this motor it came with the original metal muffs, which I bolt on while in the cooler/esky. Always try to submerge the motor below the level of your water pump if using a tub.

 

[adamjoelmusic]

Re: 1989 Force 125hp outboard & its rookie owner

Yeah- I'm actually running it in a lake each night -

I may just have to replace the gaskets and impeller like was recommended - sounds like you all feel that I should have a good stream of water even at idler then? Didn't know if this one ejected the water somewhere different than those two small holes


Also... Last night I tried running up hard .... Hammer all the way down and only goes around 10mph??

Seems like it may be an simple throttle adjustment because the is a "slack" feeling in the control ...

but any thoughts there?

 

[pnwboat]

Re: 1989 Force 125hp outboard & its rookie owner

Look at the butterflies in each of the carbs when you push the throttle all the way forward. The butterflies should be pretty much horizontal. Also do a compression check and verify that you have spark on all 4 cylinders.

 

[gregmsr]

Re: 1989 Force 125hp outboard & its rookie owner

I believe a "lake" is a large enough container. I have a 125 and it just spits and sprays little water out the two pee holes during idle.
At WOT, steady stream. Go ahead and install new impeller, make sure the water tube is clear and aligned when re-installing the lower (insects like to build mud nests in small openings). Check the thermostat, it may be stuck.
As pnw said, check spark/compression. If compression on all cylinders is not equal within a few lbs, something is wrong...

 

[Jiggz]

Re: 1989 Force 125hp outboard & its rookie owner

I will check the thermostat to make sure it is rated properly and opens all the way. The usual T-stat for this type is rated for 130F. Remove the existing one and check it for cleanliness and test it on hot water. It should fully open.

 

[Ayellaone]

Re: 1989 Force 125hp outboard & its rookie owner

I'm getting ready to start going over my 125 this weekend... Looking at the same ideals. If you find something out, please share.

 

[MickLovin]

Re: 1989 Force 125hp outboard & its rookie owner

I will check the thermostat to make sure it is rated properly and opens all the way. The usual T-stat for this type is rated for 130F. Remove the existing one and check it for cleanliness and test it on hot water. It should fully open.

Actually Jiggz mine is a 110F and so was my 75hp but the rest of the 75hp's were 140F and most other chryslers as well, noted in my manual.
Unsure about the Force.

 

[adamjoelmusic]

Re: 1989 Force 125hp outboard & its rookie owner

Look at the butterflies in each of the carbs when you push the throttle all the way forward. The butterflies should be pretty much horizontal. Also do a compression check and verify that you have spark on all 4 cylinders.

thanks for the info everyone! real quick ... is there an easy way for me to do a compression check right at my place?

 

[Jiggz]

Re: 1989 Force 125hp outboard & its rookie owner

Yup! If you have a compression gauge (around $25~$30 from Auto stores). Search the forum for compression test and you will find the correct instructions on how to do it.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Re: 1989 Force 125hp outboard & its rookie owner

... I may just have to replace the gaskets and impeller like was recommended -

Not really that expensive and if you don't really know the maintenance history of the motor, it is a good idea !

Also... Last night I tried running up hard .... Hammer all the way down and only goes around 10mph??

Seems like it may be an simple throttle adjustment because the is a "slack" feeling in the control ...

with the engine off, remove the cover. There is probably some kind of cover/silencer over the crabs. Remove that also. Put the throttle all the way to WOT and then use a flashlight to see if all of the throttle plates are wide open.

If that checks out, you have dirt in the carbs(s). You can try adding 2 or 3 cans of SeaFoam to the tank and cruising around at half throttle, occasionally trying WOT. It will take most of your tank to clear the carb and then again, it may not work. The only other choice is rebuild.

 

[gregmsr]

Re: 1989 Force 125hp outboard & its rookie owner

Try running it with the cowl (engine cover) off....might have an exhaust leak and sucking spent air.
Exhaust gases inside the cowl will bogg it down.

 

[adamjoelmusic]

Re: 1989 Force 125hp outboard & its rookie owner

So... Here it is boys - did the compression test

1 & 3 cylinders are 120 right on ... That's the good news

Bad new is
2&4 cylinders are 0/30

So... Never having run into this... Give it to me straight guys... What's it take to rebuild these guys or is this a junker now?

 

[theoldwizard1]

Re: 1989 Force 125hp outboard & its rookie owner

So... Here it is boys - did the compression test

1 & 3 cylinders are 120 right on ... That's the good news

Bad new is
2&4 cylinders are 0/30

So... Never having run into this... Give it to me straight guys... What's it take to rebuild these guys or is this a junker now?

First, it depends on how "handy" you are and willing to dive into a project like this.

Second, it depends a lot on how bad things are on the inside. You will likely have to bore 2 cylinders and install 2 new pistons and rings plus associated gaskets. You could need more parts. The good news is most of these parts are available.

 

[Jiggz]

Re: 1989 Force 125hp outboard & its rookie owner

So... Here it is boys - did the compression test

1 & 3 cylinders are 120 right on ... That's the good news

Bad new is
2&4 cylinders are 0/30

So... Never having run into this... Give it to me straight guys... What's it take to rebuild these guys or is this a junker now?

At this point of the diagnosis, it doesn't look very good at all. Next move is to remove the head and inspect the gasket and also the cylinders. If the gasket is OK, then check the cylinders for scoring. Depending on the severity of the scores, it could be a major job.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Re: 1989 Force 125hp outboard & its rookie owner

Likely you will need, at a minimum, 2 pistons, rings and wrist pin bearing. This is probably over $200 in parts.

If you do decide you want to tackle this jobs, you need to find a machine shop that has done outboard cylinder boring and honing. Word of mouth for your area is the best way to find a good shop.

One mistake most rookies make on a rebuild is doing the machining BEFORE having the replacement pistons and ring in hand ! Get your parts, verify with the machine shop that these are correct and then let them do their work.

Make sure the shop inspects the crank, rods and other pistons and rings for tolerances. You might even inquire about having them re-assemble the crank, rods, wrist pins, bearings and piston back into the block. It is probably worth the cost of having a professional do this instead of risking scoring a cylinder or possibly breaking a ring.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 1989 Force 125hp outboard & its rookie owner

NO! Let the shop "Mike " the cylinders first before buying pistons. Let them tell you how much the cylinders need to be bored then buy the correct sized pistons. The pistons are made in .010, .020, .030, and .040 oversized and are made to tolerances to provide correct clearance in an overbored cylinder. The machine shop bores to the correct size plus or minus about .0002 for tolerance.

If money is tight, you do not need to bore all cylinders--only the damaged ones need be done--in your case two. IF you wish, you can do all four and have a completely new engine (basically)

SO: Your engine is a 3.3125 standard bore. For example: A .030 overbore would mean that the machine shop bores and hones the cylinder to nominal 3.3425. Since it is almost impossible to hit the exact measurement, with tolerance this would be about 3.3423 to 3.3427 and you would order a piston .030 oversized.

Put your approximate location in your name box and profile. Someone may be near enough to help you. If you are near Philly, then your engine is junk and I will buy it from you for 50 bucks. If you are not near Philly, then the engine is repairable. LOL

Seriously: The job itself is relatively easy, requiring no specialty tools except a flywheel puller, shop press, and torque wrench. It is also not terribly expensive. You can do it with the help you get here on the forum--lots of other guys have done so and can attest to this. The even number cylinders being affected implies that both carbs were running slightly lean. If you decide to do a rebuild, pay special attention to disassembling and cleaning the carbs, then setting them correctly.