1997 Force 40hp

Big Fish Billy

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 31, 2009
Messages
301
Hello,

I just bought a boat with a Force 40hp, noticed no tell tale pee hole. Has anyone added this to their rig and can recommend parts to use. When I first ran the engine I took the little 1/4" plug off the top and no water pressure. I figured the impellor was gone, so I took apart the water pump, impellor was fine but the upper gasket had blown out the front. Is this common?

Thanks,

Bill
 

wickware

Lieutenant
Joined
Jun 20, 2009
Messages
1,286
Re: 1997 Force 40hp

1. Can you post a picture of your blown gasket ref? Or! Show the gasket in a parts diagram.
2. Did you test for water pressure deep in a 55 gallon barrel, in the lake/river Etc?
3. Attached is my Tell Tale on my 1970 35 hp Chrysler (through base vs cover). All parts are form Hardware, Etc.
 

Attachments

  • A Solid TellTale Stream W-O Exhaust (8).jpg
    A Solid TellTale Stream W-O Exhaust (8).jpg
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  • 1970, 35 HP Chrysler's Tell Tale.jpg
    1970, 35 HP Chrysler's Tell Tale.jpg
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  • A Tell Tale Stream Below A Cover Is Best.JPG
    A Tell Tale Stream Below A Cover Is Best.JPG
    67.8 KB · Views: 2

Big Fish Billy

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 31, 2009
Messages
301
Re: 1997 Force 40hp

Hi there,

It is the far right gasket top row, from your parts dept: http://www.iboats.com/mall/image/vendor/16/bigger/18-3214_big.jpg. I had run the engine with a hose before buying it with earmuffs and not water at the top plug. Guy took $200 off, so when I got it home, I dropped the housing and checked the pump, impellor was fine, but the front end of that gasket had blown out. I double cut a small piece of gasket material in, added some goop and put it back together, water was pumping good, just would like the pee hole deal and wondering if there was a special kit somewhere. I've tracked down some parts and will get an arrangement made up. Thanks for the help. Bill
 

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
21,665
Re: 1997 Force 40hp

Generally you need to submerge the lower unit in water to get it to pump correctly. They just don't like to fill with water with the water muff design and shape of the lower unit.

Might want to replace your thermostat as well.



there should be a 1/4" pipe plug in the top of the head, just ahead of the thermostat.



Remove the plug, install brass fitting with hose barb, add 4 feet of tubing, route to exit point, drill hole for tubing. Presto, done for $7 and a trip to the hardware store..



http://forums.iboats.com/force-chrysler-outboards/can-i-add-telltale-force-210027.html
 
Last edited:

wickware

Lieutenant
Joined
Jun 20, 2009
Messages
1,286
Re: 1997 Force 40hp

The solid water stream vs exhaust mixed and pointed away more to the side, made this a winner for me. This is easy on the Young Neck. LOL.

Plus, check your over-heat alarm/sensor to know it?s working. If I ground my sensor?s electrical connector at the orange wire to my head (attached), my horn sounds with the switch on. You might have a light buzzer or etc. The sensor acts as a ground when the temp is above normal. To actually test the sensor you need to heat it in water to see if it closes as a ground with an ohm meter or etc.
 

Attachments

  • 1970 Chrysler 35HP 2010 Check-up (7).JPG
    1970 Chrysler 35HP 2010 Check-up (7).JPG
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jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
17,926
Re: 1997 Force 40hp

Most important is what wick was telling you.
The lower unit needs to be DEEP in the bucket.
2-4 inches over the cavitation plate.
Also low water pressure on the hose or the muffs not fitting right.
The pump isin't a self priming pump.
It needs water to be pushed up to it or submerged in it.
 

Big Fish Billy

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 31, 2009
Messages
301
Re: 1997 Force 40hp

Thanks guys, located a plastic drum to cut up and make a nice test bucket, also got some brass fittings to make up a pee setup, I'll post some pics when I get it set up.
 
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