Engine Circuit Breaker Help 79 75 HP Chrysler

57 7.5

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Ok here I am again. I just replaced the starter on my 79 75 HP Chrysler after finding out it had a broken magnet inside no to mention some other stuff. Now the engine turns over starts runs a second then shuts off. Couldn't get it to turnover and found the circuit breaker on the engine needed reset. Started engine again and watched the circuit breaker and as soon as it popped up the engine stopped. Anyone have any ideas? Is it the starter solenoid? I'm going out to clean all the connections and tighten them all to make sure they are good.

Ok went out and cleaned them all off and retightened (found one ground wire loose). Now I just turn the key to on and the circuit breaker pops. Now the only thing I've done prior to starter going out was connect the grey wire from the tach to the m terminal on the switch which had a small black wire attached to it already (btw the ground wire on the solenoid that was loose was a small black wire). At one time the tach worked prior to starter problems and the tach stays at 1000 even with power off and engine off, not sure if it's bad or not. Hope this might help.
 
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Jiggz

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Re: Engine Circuit Breaker Help 79 75 HP Chrysler

I'm not familiar with the Chrysler 75HO but I know for sure the gray wire to the tach does not connect to the M terminal of the ignition sw. Have you tried disconnecting this gray wire and see if the ckt bkr still trips?
 

57 7.5

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Re: Engine Circuit Breaker Help 79 75 HP Chrysler

Not yet, it came a storm as I finished cleaning all the connections to the solenoid.
 

57 7.5

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Re: Engine Circuit Breaker Help 79 75 HP Chrysler

Ok, I took the black wire off the ignition and now it works fine. Not sure where that wire is supposed to go though. Tach works sporatically not sure what the deal is there. So what readings should I get on the starter solenoid on all the post? Mode number 757H9E. Try to upload some pics a few.
 

Jiggz

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Re: Engine Circuit Breaker Help 79 75 HP Chrysler

As I have mentioned, I'm not familiar with Chrysler so we will have to wait for the experts to chime in.
 

57 7.5

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Re: Engine Circuit Breaker Help 79 75 HP Chrysler

Somebody chime in on what my readings should be on the starter solenoid and should the black wire I removed from my key switch be grounded under the dash somewhere? Even though everything seems to work fine at the moment.
 

Frank Acampora

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Re: Engine Circuit Breaker Help 79 75 HP Chrysler

Standard wiring in that year did not include a grey. Are you sure it is not a faded purple?

Purple is not used. Black is not used unless you want it for a common ground under the dash. White is signal to the tachometer, Black can be used as tach ground and a red lead from the "I" terminal of the ignition switch is power to the tach.

Ignition switch is wired: Red to battery terminal, Green to choke, blue to ignition, yellow to start. Nothing is connected to either "M" terminal.

If you have an overheat indicator, one lead is connected to the "I" terminal and the other lead is connected to the orange wire. With the tach also connected, there would be three leads on the "" terminal which would be bulky. It is better practice to run a single lead from the "I" terminal to a small terminal board and take all connections from it. These connections are for instruments that need to be OFF when the engine is stopped and include but are not limited to: Power to the CD box --in your case, the coil (blue wire), Power to tachometer, power to overheat indicator.

Again, in your case, the blue wire should run from the engine terminal board to the positive terminal of the coil. The (usually a whit) other wire should run from the negative terminal of the coil to the points terminal on the distributor. You would also take a white from the points terminal or the coil negative terminal to the white terminal on the engine terminal board. This would be for tachometer signal and the tach would be set to 3 pulses

Starter solenoid is a high current switch. When open, there should be infinite resistance between the two large terminals. When closed or energized, there should be zero ohms resistance between the two big terminals.

You need to trace the black wire you removed and see where it goes before I can tell you if it should be grounded, unless it is the black ground in the cable that goes to the engine.

The two small terminals with the yellow and black wires connect to a sucking solenoid that closes the switch. with the wires removed, there should be some resistance between the terminals--I don't know exactly what. If there is zero resistance there is an internal short and if there is infinite resistance there is an internal break.

Check the wires that pass under the flywheel. They can rise and rub against the flywheel. The insulation rubs off and the wires short, popping the circuit breaker.

That engine was retro-fitted with a coil and points. There are some wires that appear to be unused like a broken red at the solenoid and a red passing under the flywheel. A couple of photos showing the wiring more clearly would help.
 
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57 7.5

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Re: Engine Circuit Breaker Help 79 75 HP Chrysler

I'll have to get pictures tomorrow, raining real bad today. The grey wire I talked about was coming from the tach and I put it with the white wire and I'll connect that to the I terminal. The small black wire seems to go back with the engine wire at the solenoid. It was connected to the switch and it was causing the circuit breaker to pop. I'll connect it to the instrument ground tomorrow. Now how do I set the tach to 3 pulses? I appreciate the help. Trying to get this thing running right. The wiring to the instrument panel is a mess, I finally figured out the switch positions to get every thing working.
 

Frank Acampora

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Re: Engine Circuit Breaker Help 79 75 HP Chrysler

Show photos of the back of the tach too. The grey wire is, on OMC engines, the signal wire. THUS: You connect it to white NOT to the "I" terminal. Black at the tach will be a ground and you connect it to any good common ground. Some tachs only have two wires, some have three. If there are three, the third wire is power and THAT is connected to the "I" terminal.

If the tach has a pulse switch on the back, you turn it until the arrow points to "3" If it does not have a switch and it is NOT a Chrysler Tach, it probably will not work with your engine.
 

57 7.5

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Re: Engine Circuit Breaker Help 79 75 HP Chrysler

Well I got some pics of the wires. Couldn't get the tach off before dark but it has three wires, one is power that has a jumper to the light, the signal wire and then another one I couldn't see a letter. All the wires are all hacked up going to it has two to every post except the signal post which is hooked to the white wire from the engine. It is also set to 3. My switch has these terminals: A, B, S, 2 M's, I and not sure what the one in the middle is can't see a letter the engine green wire is connected to it. I'm trying to post a pic of the switch.

DSCF0571 (800x600).jpgDSCF0572 (800x600).jpgDSCF0573 (800x600).jpgDSCF0574 (800x600).jpgDSCF0575 (800x600).jpg

The black wire you see on the solenoid goes down to the solenoid bolt mounting it to the engine. The red on the left goes to the battery, the other on the right goes to the starter. The black wire you see in the back ground with the engine wires is the one I believe is the one to the switch that I removed think it may need to connect to the tach or common ground.
 
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