1996 - Force 120 / Which exhaust gaskets to buy?

I`mNotMe

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Sep 3, 2013
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My 1st post.

Got 1996 Force 120 HP and it runs great.

On muffs under 1/8 throttle (max RPM I'm willing to push on muffs), all spark plugs have the same. re: Black Oil Wet look but all plugs are the same color. Was told this is normal of lower RPM muffs. Did cold engine compression test and top 1 - 135, 2 - 132, 3 - 148, 4 - 152. All above 125 PSI and all within 15% variance (from top to lower number). On muffs, its responsive, starts easy, has water out its pee hole, etc, etc. On the lake, with cold engine, it intially starts easy and it runs smooth as well. After warm up on the lake, there isn't too much smoke (using 50:1 mix) and no misses at upper RPMs either. Runs great on the lake.

On the lake and after warm up, I turn key off. Try to restart 20 - 30 minutes later and it lugs as its cranks. Lugs like one cylinder sudden has too much compression. Pulled top 3 plugs and they are same color. Black / wet - like before on cold engine. Removed bottom plug and to my surprise, its clear - like a brand new plug was just installed. I don't see any white milk or clear water. But, its defiantly a "shinny new" color.

After searching, I get the feeling its exhaust manifold gasket is blown (or cracked). Thus, letting some water into lower piston chamber (especially at quick sudden stops) but not enough to hydro lock the piston. The more I read about clear lower spark plug color in bottom plug, the more I need to remove its exhaust manifold plate (cover), and do visual inspection.

Before I start this inspection job, what gaskets do I need? I read 2 x gaskets are needed, but for 1996 what part numbers (from iboats.com online store) do I need to buy? If doing this task, what other gaskets should I buy? For example, should I also re-do the head gasket or only do the exhaust gasket first, then new head gasket (if lower plug continues to be different color than other plugs)?

thanks.
 
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foodfisher

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Re: 1996 - Force 120 / Exhaust Gaskets

Re: 1996 - Force 120 / Exhaust Gaskets

Your post was most impressive about the prob. and diagnosis. Less impressive about what gaskets to purchase. I'm sure you've got it figured out by now. Can't help with your questions because you're probably not you, but I "feel" you'd be an asset and beneficiary to this forum. Fill out your profile and stick around.
 

I`mNotMe

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Re: 1996 - Force 120 / Exhaust Gaskets - which ones to buy??

Re: 1996 - Force 120 / Exhaust Gaskets - which ones to buy??

Thanks for your reply foodfisher.

If wondering, I ordered the Crymer Force Outboard Shop Manual. re: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51W4S0P93JL._SX260_.jpg earlier today. It should be here within next 5-7 days (hopefully sooner). With book and its internal pictures, I'll start removing bolts and start the visual inspection process. No. I don't know which exact exhaust gaskets to buy. Without pictures (in book or online) I'm thinking I need 3 x exhaust gaskets from iboats.com re: Part # 18-0119-9, Part # 18-0958, Part # 18-0962 But, wanted to check with others (who did same fix on their 96-99 Force 120) before buying any gaskets. And, if there's any tips / traps I need to focus on as well.

If someone knows good online source to show pictures and which gasket numbers I need to buy, it would dramatically help. As requested, I will update my profile as well.
 

jerryjerry05

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Re: 1996 - Force 120 / Exhaust Gaskets - which ones to buy??

Re: 1996 - Force 120 / Exhaust Gaskets - which ones to buy??

Picture 004.jpgPicture 002.jpgPicture 001.jpgPicture 008.jpgPicture 006.jpg

Being in North America, bring it on by. I'll help:)
Compression #s Top 2 are low.next 2 are better.
The difference would freak me out.
Someone posted the newer 120's the top and bottom should be the same the middle 2 would be about 10# higher???
If it's hard to turn over after it gets warm, it's possible the starter needs cleaning?Remove/clean.
The starter in the pic was a working starter.
The connections are loose/corroded?


The compression being off between the pistons can do that too.
First thing I'd do. Get another comp gauge.
Do another test.
Then remove the head gasket and check for crack/leaks.
Had a miss on my port motor.
Comp was 145# on all 3 Bottom piston was shiny clean.
The gasket had a very tiny hole allowing water in and small enough to keep comp up.

IF??? You decide to take the exhaust cover off??
Be very careful when loosening the screws.
They are cheap and easily break.
They rust and seize.
The can be sprayed with PB Blaster and heated with a small torch.
 
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I`mNotMe

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Re: 1996 - Force 120 / Which exhaust gaskets to buy?

Thanks for your experience Jerry.

As suggested, I will:
- Remove, Visual inspect, Clean and Re-Install Starter.
- Check Battery Cable & Starter connections
- Remove head.
- While head is off, do visual inspections.
- Install new Head Gasket (no sealer needed - if I remember correctly)
- Re-Check compression with different gauge (buddy across the street has a gauge)
- Test "on water" and recheck for shinny plug(s).

Hopefully, lower compression on upper 2 cylinders and shinny plug on bottom cylinder is from low cost head gasket replacement.

If it still has lower shinny plug, I will then investigate possible exhaust gasket problem.

While google searching, I stumbled upon 1996 compression sheet as well.
re: http://www.marinemechanic.com/merc/...rine/outboard/sportjet120-compressiontest.PDF
I will cross ref my Force 120 SN against SN range within above chart.

Thanks for your feedback.

And, many thanks for posting pictures of a dirty starter. I like pictures...
 
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I`mNotMe

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Re: 1996 - Force 120 / Which exhaust gaskets to buy?

Hi Jerry. Little update:

Today, I was able to apply some of your recommended to-do list items .

Removed the starter and did a visual inspection / cleaning of its insides. At most, 1 x tablespoon of dust was inside it. No loose wires from its core either. I disassembled and cleaned everything with brake fluid cleaner. All looked good - until one of the brushes caught my eye. 3 of the brushes looked perfect. Under the short wire positive brush, I noticed it was warn down to the wire. And, it actually wore 1/3 into the wire. Thus, the remaining wire was only 2/3 thick (compared to factory). Now, I'm "on the hunt" for new brush kit (since the rest of the starter items look great). Currently, I have my eye set on: New Starter Repair Kit Force Outboard 85 90 120 125 150 HP | eBay - OR - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Starter-Dri..._Accessories_Gear&hash=item46128f85a5&vxp=mtr
Hope one of these low cost items will fit.

Will remove its head gasket (for visual inspection) later. Got too many other home item to-do tasks with higher priority.

Just wanted to thank you for recommending I "pull the starter, clean its insides and do visual inspection of its insides".
 
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