Old Chrysler 55hp - No Spark

jrgrtx

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Feb 22, 2013
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I recently came in to an old Chrysler 55 hp, model 5571, SN 10625. Seems to be in decent shape but has no spark. I noticed it has two coils but one is very small, about 2" in diameter and about 4" long. The other is just a standard automotive 12v coil. Not sure if it matters. It will turn over with battery connected but gets no spark to either plug. I know absolutely nothing about these and would like to get it going. Any tips on getting a spark would be greatly appreciated. I'm attaching photos here.
 

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Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: Old Chrysler 55hp - No Spark

It is an old school engine from the late 1960s. It is battery ignition with points and coils, just like older cars. You need to check the positive terminals of the coils to be certain they are getting voltage. You need to pull off the flywheel. Underneath there are two sets of points and two condensers. Check the condensers physically for damage or worn insulation. Clean the points and re-gap them to .020 when on the high part of the cam.
 

jrgrtx

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Joined
Feb 22, 2013
Messages
3
Re: Old Chrysler 55hp - No Spark

It is an old school engine from the late 1960s. It is battery ignition with points and coils, just like older cars. You need to check the positive terminals of the coils to be certain they are getting voltage. You need to pull off the flywheel. Underneath there are two sets of points and two condensers. Check the condensers physically for damage or worn insulation. Clean the points and re-gap them to .020 when on the high part of the cam.

Thank you Frank. One question before to go into this old boy. Does it matter the type of coil that is used. For instance, if you look at the first photo (the one where you can see the whole engine), you'll notice a large blue coil with the red tipped spark plug wire connected. I know from experience working on old tractors and trucks, a 12v coil was a 12v coil. This blue coil obviously is not the one that goes with the engine but does it really matter. The other coil for the other cylinder is, what I believe to be, the original coil (small one). Also, just to get me chasing the fault trail, if after cleaning the points and regapping and if condensors are fine there is no spark, what would be the next in-line item to check? Also, if there is no spark to the pos side of the coils, what would your suggestion be? Sorry for all the questions but once I get going I want to just run with it. I appreciate all your help and please keep posting. Take care and God Bless.
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: Old Chrysler 55hp - No Spark

Yes, a 12 volt coil is a 12 volt coil. It would be nicer to have original equipment but you work with what you have. That engine is set up with a12 volt blue wire to the positive side of each coil. The white wire goes up to the points. when the points close voltage flows through the primary circuit of the matching coil and builds a magnetic field. when the points open, the field collapses, and passing through the fine windings of the secondary, generates a high voltage to jump the sparkplug gap. SO: The coils are nothing more than DC step-up transformers.

Condensers primarily serve to absorb and cushion 12 volt flow through the points, preventing arcing across the points as they open and close, and extending their life. SO: If a condenser is shorted no voltage will flow through the primary and no spark will be generated. However, without a condenser, voltage would jump the point gap as they opened or closed, changing the dwell and no spark would be generated.

Points are set to .020 open on a high point. This opening will determine the amount of time the points are closed (dwell) and directly, the satuation of the primary windings, thus the strength of the magnetic field. Too much opening = too much dwell and not enough time for the field to collapse. Too little opening = not enough dwell and a poor, weak magnetic field. Both conditions will pevent generating a high enough secondary voltage to jump the plug gap. Like Goldilocks, one is too big, one is too small, and one is just right.

With old engines that have not been used in a while, 90% of the time a spark problem will be dirty or mis-gapped points or bad condensers.

If you are NOT getting voltage through the blue wire to the positive side of the coils, then the ignition switch is most likely bad. You could "jump" from red to blue on the engine terminal board andcrank the engine. If you then get spark, replace the ignition switch
 
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