Too much oil in exhaust water 1984 chrysler 115hp

jpurkhiser

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Feb 24, 2013
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Hi everybody, I got my firing order correct like you mentioned and thank you for that. When I was running it with the wrong firing order (in the barrel) a lot of oil was getting into the water in the barrel. Probably because it was only hitting on 2 cylinders. I set the firing order as you all mentioned and did not clean out the barrel but just changed the water. There still seems to be a lot of smoke coming out of the exhaust and maybe it is new oil in the water or old off the walls of the barrel from running on the wrong firing order. I mixed 9.5oz of synthetic Quick silver synthetic blend 2 cycle oil with 3 gallons of gas since I just rebuilt the motor. Then I added one more half gallon of gas to the mix now and still seems to be a lot of smoke. I am going to pressure was the barrel tomorrow and try again to see if it pollutes it with oil. Is there something I might be doing wrong or possibly put back together wrong? Once again thank you for any help you may offer in advance.
Joe
 

jerryjerry05

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May 7, 2008
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Re: Too much oil in exhaust water 1984 chrysler 115hp

No your probably not doing anything wrong.
Just too much oil.
It will eventually burn off. Remember 1 pint to 6 gallons after your breakin period.
Add a bit of oil and then some gas then more oil and more gas.
If you just dump the oil in and not try to mix it it will just set on the bottom and get sucked up first.
 

wickware

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Jun 20, 2009
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Re: Too much oil in exhaust water 1984 chrysler 115hp

Could it be that the new rings have not seated causing a little blow-by?? Did you space your rings end-gaps to reduce blow-by and can that be an issue??
 

Frank Acampora

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Re: Too much oil in exhaust water 1984 chrysler 115hp

Runnug ANY engine in a barrel will gas youSmoke and oil collects and seems to be excessive. It's normal.
 

jpurkhiser

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Re: Too much oil in exhaust water 1984 chrysler 115hp

Thank you for the input. I was wandering if it was the synthetic oil not "agreeing" with the motor. I usually use quicksilver regular.
Thanks again.
Joe
 

jpurkhiser

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Feb 24, 2013
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Re: Too much oil in exhaust water 1984 chrysler 115hp

On a chrysler (mine) the piston has roll pins in teh ring groove that will allow me only one way to put the rings in. To boot, the gaps on the rings are forced to be in line with each other, not stagered....? Thanks for the help though.
Joe
 

jpurkhiser

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Re: Too much oil in exhaust water 1984 chrysler 115hp

I am kind of leaning towards that to (Runnug ANY engine in a barrel will gas youSmoke and oil collects and seems to be excessive. It's normal.) I kind of think that when I first fired it up and was running on only two cylinders because I thought the firing order was 1 2 3 4 that quite a bit of gas/oil flushed through the motor un burnt and loaded my barrell. I dumped teh water but teh oil residue was still all over the sides of the barrell and on teh foot as well. I also kind of am leary about quick silver synthetic....I probably am going to dump the mix and go back with quick silver regular but I do believe in the lake I won't see the smoke as much.
Thanks for all your help everybody. I will let you know how it does.
Joe
 

jerryjerry05

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Re: Too much oil in exhaust water 1984 chrysler 115hp

Remember,too much oil can be almost as bad as not enough oil. It will eventually carbon and foul the rings and then the rebuild starts again. Once you run it will settle down and not smoke as much. Also it's ALWAYS gonna smoke some. Especially at the ramp where everybody see's you and looks at you and comments on that piece of crap polluting the air and how it's already bad enough etc,etc,etc :)
Scr%^& w them, keep smiling!
 

Frank Acampora

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Re: Too much oil in exhaust water 1984 chrysler 115hp

Late Chrysler and Force engines did have the ring locating pinns staggered 180 degrees apart. Wiseco aftermarket pistons are the same. Performancewise there really isn't much difference if the rings are gapped to specifications. However, the newer Force pistons with semi-keystone top rings do tend to break the top ring more often. There were two different types: One semi-keystone with a top land and one without a top land. The top of the ring was flush with the top of the piston on the one without a land. There is just not enough support for that ring. (The theory is that combustion pressure gets behind the ring, pushing it against the cylinder wall, sealing better)

If you look WAY back into the 1960s, Chrysler engines had three ring pistons with, at first, all three rings twice as thick as your current rings, Then they went to three rings the thickness of your current ones, and finally they went to a two ring piston. Getting rid of the third ring increased performance. The reduced drag more than offset any blowby that two rings might have.

The reason the connecting rods are so short and the wrist pin holes are so far down in the piston is because originally, pistons were designed with three rings AND caged needle bearings for the wrist pin in the piston itself. This took up a lot of room at the top of the piston. Given the state of American manufacturers in general, as ring and bearing design improved, they simply did not want to spend money to change tooling so rods and wrist pin placement remained the same. American auto makers did the same: They had a gullible consumer base that would buy anything they made, so why change--even if for the better? One thing we can thank the Japanese for is waking up American manufacturers to produce better quality goods.

NOTE that on late model Force engines Mercury DID change wrist pin placement and lengthened connecting rods BUT they also increased crankpin diameter so these pistons and rods can not be retrofit into early engines unless you can find oversized big end rollers.

No doubt that longer rods are better: They produce less side thrust on the piston and because of the various running angles of the rod the piston spends less time at top dead center. Timing advance can be reduced slightly and more horsepower is made.
 

jpurkhiser

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Feb 24, 2013
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Re: Too much oil in exhaust water 1984 chrysler 115hp

Remember,too much oil can be almost as bad as not enough oil. It will eventually carbon and foul the rings and then the rebuild starts again. Once you run it will settle down and not smoke as much. Also it's ALWAYS gonna smoke some. Especially at the ramp where everybody see's you and looks at you and comments on that piece of crap polluting the air and how it's already bad enough etc,etc,etc :)
Scr%^& w them, keep smiling!

Thank you. I agree. Lots of folks have their 40K boat and look down on little guys like me that can not afford an expensive boat and I say "bite me" but they are the first to be stranded in the lake because they can't figure out how to change a fuse.
Thanks again.
Joe
 

jpurkhiser

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Feb 24, 2013
Messages
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Re: Too much oil in exhaust water 1984 chrysler 115hp

I just wanted to thank everybody for your input on my questions. This is a GREAT web site! I just cleaned my barrel and washed the foot, as well as dumped the original gas and made new with slightly less oil and she still smokes a bit but there is a tenth the oil in the barrel water. I think most of it was from before as well as the exhaust. If I can help anybody in any way just let me know via email. I don't have much knowledge to offer but I have a lot of other skills to offer. I will try to follow the Chrysler forum in case I can return the favors.
Thanks again everybody!
Joe
 

wickware

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Re: Too much oil in exhaust water 1984 chrysler 115hp

Two-Cycle Oil/Gas has caused a mess in some small lakes IMO. When I pulled up my anchor on my ?one and only trip? to one lake, the anchor appeared to have ?Thick Tar? on it. I feel my engine was just as guilty toward contaminating. I guess most will float off except in low lakes, Right? I do not see any of my film in the bottom vs sides but the water is only in the barrel a day.
 

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