1972 chrysler 55 hp questions

ivan77

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Hi,

my father in law has a 55hp 1972 chrysler motor that we want to get running. Do I need serial #, model # for these, or is the year and hp sufficient?

he mentioned one of the problems with the motor was that the points on one of the cylinder seemed to stop working farily regularly. What might cause a point to blow out?

Since we are getting it up and running after some years, my thoughts are 1) carb rebuild, 2) figure out the points blowing issue. Is there anything else I'd want to do in the first run at getting it going?

Also, there are three bolt holes on the top- is that for a puller tool? we are able to get the flywheel bolt off easily, but do not have the puller tool, and I am not sure where to get one (in Toronto).

Are there any resources (parts lists, service manuals) that I did not find on iboats?

Thanks,
Ivan
 

wickware

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Re: 1972 chrysler 55 hp questions

1. If you add Ser & Mod # it will help those that use that info.

2. Searches of this forum?s search window will lead to good info (35 ?55 hp) are related.
Please check the FAQ at the start of these threads, lots of your needed info might be there.
Search wickware to see some of my latest sharing related to your questions.

3. I?ll try to jump in when I see your needs that are new vs repeated info shared.

4. The searches will show various opinions, which is good IMO.
 

ivan77

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Re: 1972 chrysler 55 hp questions

thanks wickware. I'll do that.
 

jerryjerry05

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Re: 1972 chrysler 55 hp questions

That info will be good for ordering parts.

Points will usually last a LONG time if the motor is being used.
An outboard not being used is the worst thing for them!!!

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=464459
Here is the manual for your motor.
Open it and read all about setting points and cleaing carbs(most just need cleaning)

The puller can be rented/borrowed at most auto parts store.
Make sure you clean the threads before installing the bolts.

boats . net has parts diagrams and some parts.
Franz marine can get almost anything/

This site sells a lot of parts,just make sure it's the right stuff.
 

ivan77

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Re: 1972 chrysler 55 hp questions

thanks for the info Jerry.

Ill report back when I get through some of the info.

Ivan
 

wickware

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Re: 1972 chrysler 55 hp questions

1. Please check the LU?s oil and replace the impeller if it has been a while. My 1970 35 hp Chrysler is related.

2. I h/n needed to change my points since 1984 or timing ever vs cleaning checking points gap (?sitting and moisture Maybe Jerry?).

3. Pulling the flywheel can be challenging but I feel all have come off eventually vs choice words.

4. Please post pics now, as we work and most of all the results of the project. What pics do you need?

5. The Eng Is Friendly And Simple IMO! But? Ask first on all 1st challenges if you h/n experienced them.
 

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ivan77

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Re: 1972 chrysler 55 hp questions

thanks again. I'm doing some reading in the forum as advised.

I'll start with a carb cleaning/gasket replacement, impeller replacement, gapping the points, checking the spark. I'll see if I can get a compression tester.

One question about the pics, your engine looks the same (flywheel). there are three holes at the top of the flywheel that on the motor are missing. Are these for a flywheel puller, or do you actually need those three bolts to secure the flywheel?

Ivan
 

emoney

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Re: 1972 chrysler 55 hp questions

Nope, that's for pulling (or for making a DIY engine puller too). BTW, there's a thread around here that talks specifically about "what to do" before starting an older outboard that's been sitting for a while. It should be a sticky at the top of this forum or one of the others. It's really good reading. Furthermore, in the "Top Secret" thread, lots of good reading in there as well from TashasDaddy, (RIP). Good luck and welcome to iboats!

**edit: both of those threads are here;
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=299680
 

wickware

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Re: 1972 chrysler 55 hp questions

I hope I understand your question. Three threaded holed are used to pull the flywheel with a basic auto Harmonic balance puller. A large center nut is torqued to secure the flywheel with a key aligning crank and flywheel.

There is a published method of prying the flywheel up to rem it if the 3 holes are not there. IMO the large 3 jaw puller might be less damaging than the prying.
 

ivan77

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Re: 1972 chrysler 55 hp questions

Hi Emoney, thanks for the tips, wicware, you understood perfectly.

I'll have to wait until next weekend when I will be able to get the model and serial number before buying the parts for the update.
 

wickware

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Re: 1972 chrysler 55 hp questions

If I d/n as you, Please share pictures related to questions when possible. ?Pics Are Worth A Thousand Words?! I have many pics of maintenance task as records for the ?Young Memory?, LOL. Feel free to ask for any pics I might have.

Our piston's bore and stroke might be the only differences in engines, 35?55 hp. Two ext ID pics are attached of my 35 hp with a 55 hp cover.
 

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ivan77

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Re: 1972 chrysler 55 hp questions

Hi everyone, I got the model #
555Be serials 1018. Now the fun begins. I'll update in a while.

Cheers.
 

ivan77

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Re: 1972 chrysler 55 hp questions

Hi All,

here is an update and more questions. My father in law was able to get hold of the puller tool and it worked. I tightened the tool on the flywheel overnight (tight but I did not reef on it). the next morning, I just had to give it a bit more of a turn and it popped (what a nice sound that was).
Here is where I need some more help. When we were testing the spark, it sparked on the one sparkplug(top wire) but not on the other. I did check to be sure that the sparkplug was not the issue. the weird thing is, during one of the tests of the sparkplug(bottom wire) that was not working I felt a bit of a shock where the wire inserts into the cap where it holds the spark plug (see image). If that would indicate that there is an issue with the wire, does that mean that I have to change the whole coil, since the wire seems to insert directly? coilinsertion.jpgspark.jpg


Also, I downloaded the manual the JerryJerry05 suggested. It is helpful in that it talks about taking apart and putting the motor back together, but not about how to actually test the electrical system. how do I test an electrical system, or the coil for that matter?

Thanks for the help!
 

wickware

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Re: 1972 chrysler 55 hp questions

I would do a quick trial and error before spending any money.

1. Are the points dressed clean with fine fine Emory cloth/paper and lint collecting etc??

2. Are the points gaps set at .020 at the highest point on the cam that I think is marked?

3. Check your points for contact/continuity while closed with an ohmmeter or test light

4. Switch condensers to see if the firing plug switches. With the plugs out, rotate fly by hand.

5. Switch coils to see if the firing plug switches. There is coil tester plus an ohmmeter might test some.

6. Too much oil on my cam wicks caused points to need cleaning reg until I noticed the oil vapor.

7. That magneto sys looks good!
 

ivan77

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Re: 1972 chrysler 55 hp questions

thanks a lot for the thorough help wickware, and thanks for the manual rickryder!

I just found the section on setting the points. one question I have is, it mentions that you reinstall the knock off nut to be able to turn the crankshaft. what is the knock off nut? I couldnt figure out how to turn the crankshaft with the flywheel off.

Also, wickware, you mention the ohmmeter in #3 and #5, can you please elaborate on how I test them and what the ohmmeter should read.

I also noticed that
 

wickware

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Re: 1972 chrysler 55 hp questions

1. Knock Off Nut Is Nut used to hit to remove some fly wheel vs hammering on your standard nut or crank?s top. (basically used with the prying vs puller flywheel removal).

IMO, it will be safe to check for fire with the plugs out w/o a full torque (1/2) and using the starter vs by hand spinning.

2. Using the ohmmeter (VOM) is simply letting you know the point?s contacts are making contact electronically vs you guessing. They can make contact but lint, oxidation, etc can block the contact. If you d/n own a cheap ohmmeter, one is worth the money at Harbor Freight, Auto Store, Etc (less than 10.00 if it works). The ohmmeter should let you know if there is a break in the coil.


Help Me Pros, I'm here to learn more also!
 

rickryder

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Re: 1972 chrysler 55 hp questions

All through the manual it has instructions on using an ohmmeter and what the spec for each component your testing ;)
 

wickware

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Re: 1972 chrysler 55 hp questions

Correction: Contamination vs Oxidation or both affecting contact points. Most of all, I need to get back into the learning, researching, experimenting vs depending on others work. It takes work to keep these Monsters Going. Plus, I know verified experiences vs talk can be valuable info. Try to compare info from sources vs taking an easy out!!
 
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