Had to cut the T/T oil lines at the valve body ( 1977 135 Chrysler)

[seattle scott]

in order to get a socket on the nuts to remove from the valve body, in order to repair the valve body. So the lines are 1/2 -1.00 inch shorter. I am going to try to attach the shortened lines. To do that I need some info on flaring the ends and getting a tool to do so. What is the size of the lines ( 1977 135 hp - 4 lines) 1/8 or 3/16 and what is the type of flare I will be creating? I have seen a hand tool flarer for about $25, but want to make sure I get the right one given the size of line I am working with and type of flare I am making.

If I can't hook up the shortened lines, then do I need to make up whole new lines or can I cut them back another two inches and then add 3 inch extentions using a compression union ? If I need to make up new lines ( or add the extensions) what type of tubing or lines material do I need to get? Can I use some sort of brake line source and what is the old stuff made out of?

When I fill the reservoir I hear that 30wt crankcase non detergent oil is what I should use - correct?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Had to cut the T/T oil lines at the valve body ( 1977 135 Chrysler)

Be sure that the flaring tool is a double flare brakeline flaring tool. A single flare will not last. it will crack and fail. Yes, you can use Brakeline tubing as long as the diameter is the same and it is stainless. Yes, you can use a compression fitting union but it is NOT good workmanship. There is a high likelihood that it will leak and a better than average chance that it will corrode.

I doubt that the shortened lines will work: The factory engineers designed them to a specific length for a reason. No manufacturer will use extra material and increase cost for no reason.

Filling fluid depend upon what type was in there. However: If you are going to drain the entire system then refill with hydraulic oil. RRitt named some in a previous T/T post.

 

[RRitt]

Re: Had to cut the T/T oil lines at the valve body ( 1977 135 Chrysler)

don't bother trying to fix the cut tubes. The metal will split before it flares properly. You need to either get replacements or make new. Your only decent chance for repair is to use a compression to compression fitting and transition to a stub of CuNi tubing.

If you make new then use CuNi tubing. It is sold domestically by the brand name "ezbend" by brakequip. If you can't find any, I still have a roll left over from when I used to rebuild whole Force systems.

If you buy tubing then used is fine. The proper tubing is determined by your motor. The original motor used 3w tubing (1976-1987). The aftermarket replacement motors with larger reservoir need 2w tubing (1988-1992). I have a box of spare tubes but don't know which ones are there. If you can't find them local or on ebay then drop me a note.