70 CHRYSLER setting up since 1987

sphelps

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I have a 70,s model #707 HF outboard that,s been sitting since 1987 . It was running when it got parked..
I am no mechanic so I,m gunna need some help getting it going " I have a hard enough time keeping my lawn mower going ".:rolleyes: It had a bad starter , found a shop to rebuild it will pick up tomorrow. I need battery and gas line.. What steps should I take before I try and start it up? Should I use anything in the fuel to help clean out system? Here are some pics..
IMG00319-20111027-1727.jpg

IMG00318-20111027-1726.jpg

IMG00322-20111027-1730.jpg


Thanks for help!!
S.P
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
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Oct 8, 2007
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Re: 70 CHRYSLER setting up since 1987

Make sure you can turn the motor over. Put on some gloves and grab the flywheel. Try turning the flywheel clockwise (looking down at the flywheel). Might have to use a big wrench.

Is that a crack on the lower unit? See arrow in attachment.

IMG00319-20111027-1727.jpg
 

PS94

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Re: 70 CHRYSLER setting up since 1987

the case on chryslers splits there on the smaller ones...
 

jerryjerry05

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Re: 70 CHRYSLER setting up since 1987

Pull the plugs,check for rust.Do a compression test.Change the lower unit oil.
 

Frank Acampora

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Re: 70 CHRYSLER setting up since 1987

Given that there is a lot of oil staining at the gearcase split line, I would drain it, disassemble it, and check on the O ring there or simply replace it. Reassemble and fill with fresh lower unit oil. While it was apart, if it did not have oil in it check that the gears and bearings are not rusted. Replace the water pump impelller.

Other than that, If the engine is free, change the fuel pump diaphragm and gasket. put some tcw-3 oil in each cylinder and turn it over a couple of times. Then check compression. Pull the carb fuel bowls and check for varnish. If varnished or dirty, remove and disassemble the carbs, then clean them. Not much goes wrong with the distributor so remove the cap and if the engine has points, clean and reset them to .014. That is a later model 2 piece lower so the engine MAY have the electronic distributor. In that case there is nothing to do except check the center button on the cap. Check the distributor drive belt for large or excessive cracking. If it looks dry-rotted replace it.

Do not "clean" the fuel system. Replace the fuel line with a new one and new primer bulb. Replace the fuel line from the pump to the carbs AND put a small disposable fuel filter BETWEEN the pump and carbs.

ANd I just notices a lot of corrosion on the ground wire between the starter mount and regulator/rectifier. Replace that wire.

Looks like an older boat with character. Post some more photos please.
 

sphelps

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Re: 70 CHRYSLER setting up since 1987

Ok, went out and started tinkering . I installed rebuilt starter, reinstalled ignition switch wiring, stole gas tank and battery from future son inlaws boat, installed new plugs,cleaned out carb bowls. The top two were somewhat clean the bottom one had some gunk in it. It did'nt have a bad varnish smell. I was going to replace the fuel lines but my wife could not find right size at parts store. Tried to start and would only turn over . It acted like no spark I think it was getting fuel because after choking fuel dripped out of carb.. Flooded?? Also sometimes the starter would not turn the motor over. Battery reads 650 cold amps. Is this enough for this motor?

More pics...

IMG00390-20111210-1505.jpg

IMG00389-20111210-1418.jpg

IMG00388-20111210-1417.jpg




IMG00379-20111210-1113.jpg

IMG00378-20111210-1113.jpg




IMG00324-20111027-1732.jpg



Thanks,
S.P
 

Justinde

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Dec 11, 2010
Messages
431
Re: 70 CHRYSLER setting up since 1987

I see the problem.... Number 2 Spark Plug lead is disconnected:)

In all seriousness, you will find this site helpfull and informative. I am not very helpful or informative.... but others are.

As Frank said- looks like a boat with character- well it is just that. Looks great. Hope you get it running soon.

Justin
 

bman1bpm

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Re: 70 CHRYSLER setting up since 1987

That carb bowl looks pretty nasty to me, I'd clean them...spark is easy to test, I use a tester from harbor freight http://www.harborfreight.com/90-inline-ignition-spark-checker-4445.html, you can find them at an auto parts store too. Or you can just remove the plug from the engine ,ground it and crank the motor over, you should see a bright blue spark. Best to hold the plug with some insulated pliers or you might find end up using your body as the spark tester
 

sphelps

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Re: 70 CHRYSLER setting up since 1987

Thanks,Bman.
I,m gunna check spark tomorrow . If no spark whats next? "coil"?
Don,t know how to check compression..Going to need some help there for sure!
I,ll be glad to get my dads old boat back in shape. If he was still with us heed be grinning ear to ear!
 

bman1bpm

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Re: 70 CHRYSLER setting up since 1987

Its a pretty cool old boat, reminds me of mine.
To test compression you need a compression tester, I also got mine a HF, but they loan them for free at Autozone, I dunno if you have them down your way or not. If it was put away running it shouldn't take too much to get going.

If you find that there is no spark, I'd first check all electrical connections. Unhook them one by one so you don't get them mixed up, and clean all of them with some fine sand paper or a small metal brush. Then give it a try again. Make sure your battery is fully charged.
 

sphelps

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Re: 70 CHRYSLER setting up since 1987

We do have H/F down here I go there often.It,s about 59 deg. and windy brrrrrrr.. May make trip to town.
F Acamp said I may have electronic distributor. From pics is that what I have??
 

sphelps

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Re: 70 CHRYSLER setting up since 1987

Ok, I have no spark I grounded plug to bolt on back of motor.
Cleaned all wire terminals checking for bad wires as I went.
There was no visible arch or spark. There was a blue wire going to the coil that looked melted on jacket in two spots I spliced in a new wire just in case.Still no spark:confused:
Here is pics
IMG00392-20111211-1204.jpg

IMG00393-20111211-1205.jpg


There is white wire in same harness that is cut off , don,t know what is for....
 

Nordin

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Jun 12, 2010
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Re: 70 CHRYSLER setting up since 1987

Looking at the hood it suppose to be a 1972-73 and in those years it should have Magnapower electronic ign.
But in the pics I do not see any CD-pack, looks like it is converted to battery ignition. That is old school ig. containing ign.switch, points, condenser, disterbuter and coil.
The blue wire to the coi lfeed +12V from the switch, the yellow/black from coil goes to disterbuter/condenser that is inside the disterbuter.
Inside the disterbuter there is also the points.
Clean the points and regap to 010, check that you have +12V at blue wire on the coil.
Then I see that there is no ground wire from disterbuter to the engine block. Attach a wire from the dist. to engine block so you are sure having good groundconnection.
 

Frank Acampora

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Re: 70 CHRYSLER setting up since 1987

Whoa! Your engine is really old. It has automotive type.battery and coil ignition. I haven't seen one of those in a long time. That is a stock Chrysler coil mount and no, the distributor is NOT electronic.

OK---Start here. Check to be certain the thin red wire is attached to the battery side of the starter solenoid. This is how the whole ignition system gets power. Then below the engine terminal strip there will be a circuit breaker. It will either be a silver rectangular can or a plastic one with a reset button. Check to be certain that 12 volts is being supplied to the terminal strip. If not, replace the silver can or press the reset button on the black plastic one. if still no power, replace the black one. Of course, I expect that you will have checked for broken wires and corrosion on any terminals.
At the ignition switch, the blue wire attaches to the "I" terminal. This supplies power to the coil. Be certain that the red wire shows 12 volts and with the switch on the blue wire does also. At the engine terminal strip the blue wire goes to the + (pos) terminal of the coil. Now, A white wire (or in your case white with a black tracer) should go from the - (neg) of the coil to the points terminal on the side of the distributor. The distributor MUST be grounded from the movable part to the mounting on the block. If not, the grease insulates the movable part and the points will not ground when they close.

Your switch should be Push To Choke type. To choke the engine for cold starting, you push in on the key and hold while turning it to start. For cold starting you pull out the silver lever or knob on the control box and advance the control handle as far as it will go. This is fast idle position.

With the points closed, the coil is charged. When the points open, the magnetic field inside the coil collapses and generates a high voltage pulse to the plug(s).

The white wire at the engine terminal strip is not used.

SO: Take the cap off the distributor. Clean the points and set them to .010 gap at a high lobe on the cam. Now check for spark. If no spark, check the condenser. There should be one inside the distributor. If it is cracked or if the wire is broken, replace it. You don't necessarily need a Chrysler condenser-- a lawnmower one will do in a pinch.

If still no spark, turn the switch on and ground the neg terminal of the coil. If no spark is made, the coil needs to be replaced.

Of course, you need to check that the distributor is set to its correct position: The pulley on top should have the curved line aligned with the flywheel when the engine is at top dead center. The TDC or 0 degree line on the flywheel should point to the TDC line on the engine block pointer above the top carb.

Original fuel lines were 5/16 ID but you can use 3/8.
 

sphelps

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Re: 70 CHRYSLER setting up since 1987

Thanks Nord, F. Acamp..
I am gunna have to write all this down or take laptop out and go thru whole list of steps. Am I going to have to take points off dist. to clean and set gap . Does roter button just pull off? I have never worked on dist. before and concerned I may screw something up!
Gotta pick up a volt tester/ meter ...
IMG00394-20111211-1442.jpg

IMG00395-20111211-1442.jpg
 

Frank Acampora

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Re: 70 CHRYSLER setting up since 1987

The rotor and shaft are a single unit, epoxied together. It is usually easier to remove the distributor to clean and set the points gap but it can be done with the dist mounted to the engine. Points must be mounted in the dist. to set the gap.To clean them, you open them by hand and insert a folded piece of fine (400) sandpaper. Let them snap closed on the paper and pull it out. Do this a couple of times and blow the crap off the points. Then lubricate the felt wick that should be there and looks like it is not. Back up a little with the camera. The photo is not clear because you are too close.
 

sphelps

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Re: 70 CHRYSLER setting up since 1987

There is a felt looking strip in between the shaft and points.
Sorry about picture holding shop light one hand camera phone with other.. What do you lubricate with?
 

sphelps

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Re: 70 CHRYSLER setting up since 1987

Whoa! Your engine is really old. It has automotive type.battery and coil ignition. I haven't seen one of those in a long time. That is a stock Chrysler coil mount and no, the distributor is NOT electronic.

OK---Start here. Check to be certain the thin red wire is attached to the battery side of the starter solenoid. This is how the whole ignition system gets power. Then below the engine terminal strip there will be a circuit breaker. It will either be a silver rectangular can or a plastic one with a reset button. Check to be certain that 12 volts is being supplied to the terminal strip. If not, replace the silver can or press the reset button on the black plastic one. if still no power, replace the black one. Of course, I expect that you will have checked for broken wires and corrosion on any terminals.
At the ignition switch, the blue wire attaches to the "I" terminal. This supplies power to the coil. Be certain that the red wire shows 12 volts and with the switch on the blue wire does also. At the engine terminal strip the blue wire goes to the + (pos) terminal of the coil. Now, A white wire (or in your case white with a black tracer) should go from the - (neg) of the coil to the points terminal on the side of the distributor. The distributor MUST be grounded from the movable part to the mounting on the block. If not, the grease insulates the movable part and the points will not ground when they close.

Your switch should be Push To Choke type. To choke the engine for cold starting, you push in on the key and hold while turning it to start. For cold starting you pull out the silver lever or knob on the control box and advance the control handle as far as it will go. This is fast idle position.

With the points closed, the coil is charged. When the points open, the magnetic field inside the coil collapses and generates a high voltage pulse to the plug(s).

The white wire at the engine terminal strip is not used.

SO: Take the cap off the distributor. Clean the points and set them to .010 gap at a high lobe on the cam. Now check for spark. If no spark, check the condenser. There should be one inside the distributor. If it is cracked or if the wire is broken, replace it. You don't necessarily need a Chrysler condenser-- a lawnmower one will do in a pinch.

If still no spark, turn the switch on and ground the neg terminal of the coil. If no spark is made, the coil needs to be replaced.

Of course, you need to check that the distributor is set to its correct position: The pulley on top should have the curved line aligned with the flywheel when the engine is at top dead center. The TDC or 0 degree line on the flywheel should point to the TDC line on the engine block pointer above the top carb.

Original fuel lines were 5/16 ID but you can use 3/8.



Ok, I have gone thru list and I am at grounding neg side of coil . Do I just run wire from neg side to block ,grnd plug, turn motor over check for spark? Will it spark without turning motor over?


Gunna recheck points gap not sure if was at high lobe
Also, should all screws on term strip have 12 volts? The red wire coming from circuit breaker to strip 12 V . The blue wire from strip to coil 12V with key on . Rest of strip less than 1 V. Is this correct?
 

sphelps

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11,429
Re: 70 CHRYSLER setting up since 1987

Checked coil using above method . still no spark :mad:
Still not sure how to set points gap. Is there a screw for adjustment ? The one that sits horizontal just outside points?
I do apologize for my lack of no how..:confused:
 
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