Starter/solenoid problem 96 force 90

[bpz1210]

I have a 96 force 90. On the boat (96 Glastron GS160), I've had to re-wire most of the igniton switch and fuse panel wiring. The gauges, radio, lights, and etc. work fine now. My problem is getting the starter to engage. I've tried 2 different solenoids, the old solenoid and a new solenoid from an auto parts store.

The old solenoid first: I'm getting 12v going into red wire through the ign switch, then 12v through the purple and red wires when switch is on, and only 6v through the yellow/red when in start position. The solenoid has 12v through red wire and only .8v through yellow/red. This makes the starter turn slightly.

The new solenoid: I'm getting 12v going into red wire through the ign switch, then 12v through the purple and red wires when switch is on, and 12v through the yellow/red when in start position. The solenoid has 12v through red wire and 12v through yellow/red, but the starter doesn't even budge? Weird huh?

Any ideas?

 

[my1stboat1]

Re: Starter/solenoid problem 96 force 90

you can have all the voltage in the world present if you dont have a good grounds u cant apply that voltage to your load... Is the starter good ( Do you know for sure.. The starter selenoid has 2 Heavy gauge battery terminals on it.. If you take a jumper wire or even use a screw driver and connect those to terminals directly together.. If your starter doesnt turn and your sure your Battery is good and your grounds are good.. Then your starter Is shot..

 

[bpz1210]

Re: Starter/solenoid problem 96 force 90

I bypassed the solenoid and the starter turns. All grounds are good. I might have a voltage drop somewhere, but where? I also find it wierd that the old solenoid makes the starter turn and the new solenoid does nothing. I'm going to a marine shop tomorrow and will try to get an exact match of the old solenoid, even though it shouldn't matter.

 

[TwoFish]

Re: Starter/solenoid problem 96 force 90

Try Bridging (with screwdriver or such) between? A ? and ?C? on the solenoid. This will give a good current to the switching side of the solenoid. If this works you have a voltage drop in the ignition switch side of your wiring . Let me know how you go I can lead you through from there.

I take it that you bridged between ?A? and ?B? before and the starter worked?

 

[bpz1210]

Re: Starter/solenoid problem 96 force 90

Yes I did do A / B and the starter engages. I will try A and C tomorrow. Should I try the old solenoid or the new solenoid or both? What if the the bridge does nothing?

 

[TwoFish]

Re: Starter/solenoid problem 96 force 90

This check tests the solenoid. It gives full power to the switching circuit in the solenoid. You have already shown there is enough power getting to the solenoid ( cable ?A?) to make the starter work and that cable ?B? from the solenoid to the starter is OK.

Test ?A? to ?C? will test whether the solenoid is working. If the starter works with this test it shows that the solenoid is OK and you are not getting enough current from the ignition key circuit to trigger the solenoid. If the first solenoid fails try the other one.

It?s an easy fix either way. If the solenoid is no good you need a new one. If the ignition circuit has a voltage drop you can try to find the fault or fit a relay between the ignition switch wire and the solenoid. I can draw you a diagram if it is necessary to fit a relay. Auto-electricians fit relays to cars regularly. It?s easier than trying to find the fault, provided you are getting some current down the ignition switch wire.

I have been told that running a battery with low voltage can damage the solenoid. The contacts inside the solenoid don?t stay closed properly and can ark, damaging them.

A photo of the solenoid in my motor 1998 75 hp.


Good Luck

 

[TwoFish]

Re: Starter/solenoid problem 96 force 90

Bpz1210
Just read your reply on the other thread regarding the voltage you are getting to the solenoid. You can get a reading of 12 v but not be getting enough current (amps) on the circuit. The term ?voltage drop ? is a bit misleading as it refers to a drop in current.

See how you go with the test above and hopefully we can fix the problem.

 

[bpz1210]

Re: Starter/solenoid problem 96 force 90

Test ?A? to ?C? worked on the old solenoid. The new solenoid would not budge. I was able to track another fault in the circuit, but was wonder if you could send me a diagram that you mentioned for future refernce. I've found too many corrided wires to feel safe just yet. The motor cranks just like champ!!! Thanks!!!

 

[TwoFish]

Re: Starter/solenoid problem 96 force 90

That?s good your solenoid and starter are OK. We just need to get more power to the switch wire on the solenoid.

I?ve been out today and haven?t had time to draw the diagram. I haven?t forgotten about you.

I your other post you said you were getting power on the switch wire to the solenoid. Is this correct?

 

[TwoFish]

Re: Starter/solenoid problem 96 force 90

If you are getting power from the original ignition key wire the following diagram will show how to fit a relay.

The reason fitting a rely works is the new relay only needs about 0.5 amps to work where the solenoid needs several amps. Even a very degraded circuit will still be able to supply 0.5 amps. If your wiring or switches are really bad you may need to run a new wire or replace the switches.



You will need the following.

A relay 12 volt 30 or 40 amp. Most auto or electronics stores will have one. (only a few dollars). Try to find one that has only one 87 pin on it. Some come with 2 pins (87 and 87a) so it is easier to connect wires for spot lights (1 for each terminal). You will only need one terminal for this job.

15 amp wire.

1 x 15amp fuse holder and fuse. (water proof if possible). You can get these already made up so all you need to do is fit the connectors to the ends of the wires.

4 x spade connectors (insulated type) for connecting the wires to the relay.

3 x circular connectors (insulated type), 1 for large terminal on solenoid and 2 small for the smaller terminals on the solenoid.

1 x straight connector (insulated type) if your switch wire is not long enough to reach where you mount the relay.

Depending on how fussy you want to be, you can buy heat shrink with glue inside that works well for water proofing. Also spraying something like Quicksilver Corrosion Guard on things afterwards keeps the water off.


Directions.

If you look at the bottom of the relay you will see numbers that tell you which terminal is which. They should match the diagram.
Mount the relay as close as possible to the solenoid as you can to keep the wires short and neat. Use the bolts that hold the solenoid to the motor if you can.

First disconnect the switch wire from the solenoid ?C? and fit a spade terminal. As mention earlier you may need to add some wire with the straight connector to reach the relay. This wire connects to terminal 85 in the relay.

Next make a wire that goes from the negative terminal on the solenoid ?D? ( or any good ground) to the terminal marked 86 on the relay. Once you have done this you should be able to turn the starter key and hear the new relay click when you turn the key.

Now the last 2 wires get power to the solenoid to make it work.

The fuse wire goes from the positive in side of the solenoid ?A? to the number 30 terminal on the relay.

The new switch wire for the solenoid goes from terminal 87 on the relay to terminal ?C? on the solenoid .

You should now have a starter motor that works.


Relay, Spade connector, waterproof fuse holder, Circular connector and wiring diagram