Help! 1978 Chrysler 25 hp - No Power, Smokes like Crazy

JC1972

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May 12, 2011
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19
Hey all,

Hoping I can get some help on this motor I recently bought. 1978 Chrysler 25 hp, electric start, tiller steer, short shaft. Model 252H8D Serial 3211. Magneto Ignition (points condensers coils).

I bought it in a foolish way, didn't pay attention to the obvious signs:

1.) Motor had been sitting outside on an old boat uncovered for some time.
2.) Was really dirty under the motor cover.
3.) When pulled it off the boat, could tell that fuel had been sitting in carb for quite awhile.
4.) Guy had no gas tank or any way to prove that it ran (other than his colorful stories about what a 'great motor' it is).

Alright, alright... lesson learned.

Anyways, got it home and hooked up a battery to it. Starter works great, motor doesn't start. Checked plugs. 1 firing, 1 not. Did some reading.

Pulled flywheel (key not sheared), took some emory cloth to the point contacts and checked gap (both were .018). Still no start.

Since I don't have a test light or meter, I thought perhaps I would switch the 2 condensers and see if the problem would swap cylinders along with them. Alas! BOTH plugs now firing. Figured the small 12volt connections on the points blocks must have been slightly corroded an not making good connection. Cleaned them thoroughly.

Motor now runs, fairly smooth I suppose, though I wouldn't call it a 'sewing machine'. Smokes like crazy. Yes it is white, but the smell of 2 cycle oil is so "heavy" it almost chokes you to be near it. I do not have a ton of experience on this, but I don't believe it is steam. Plugs appear to be oily and not 'steam cleaned'.

Ordered new sets of points, condensers, carb kit. Installed points and set the gap to .020 as recommended (although not 100% confident that they are EXACTLY 180 degrees apart). Replaced both condensers, inspected coils - no cracking/oozing... both look good. Replaced spark plugs with new ones. Timing plate not sloppy and appears to do what it is supposed to do. There is more I can say about my 'procedure' with the points install, if you think there may be a problem here, I will be more elaborate in another post, but this one is already going to be lengthy.

Pulled carb off and put rebuild kit in. Carb was not as tarnished as I had expected it to be. Carb kit came only with gaskets, float needle and float seat. Had to use the 'old' main jet. Did not soak carb body overnight, just blew out the passages with air and scrubbed what I could with brass wire brush and pipe cleaners and carb spray cleaner.

Same thing. Motor will start but:

1.) Won't idle - it takes more throttle than 'neutral' will allow to keep it running.
2.) Even 'cold' you cannot use any choke or it dies.
3.) Smokes like crazy, smoke smells very heavy of 2 stroke oil and almost chokes you. Yes it is mixed at 50:1 - checked and double checked.
4.) Seems like it is pushing alot of unburned fuel right out the exhaust as well. Leaves a big fuel 'slick' on the water, more than I would expect it to, but I don't have a lot of experience on what is considered normal.
5.) I am guessing on this one, but even in neutral under no load, it doesn't seem like it can rev more than say 3500-4000 rpm (that is with the motor 'tricked' into thinking it is in gear and allowed full throttle range.
6.) In gear and under load, falls on its face and has no power. Can barely run.

Other things I have checked:

Compression - 95# on cylinder 1 and 97# on cylinder 2.
Reeds - peered into the reed block when carb was off and saw no sign of damage, although that inspection was half-fast at best.

Things I am thinking I can still try without buying parts:

1.)pull the reeds block and do a closer visual inspection.
2.)while running, spray some WD40 or carb cleaner around the engine surfaces and listen for an RPM change.
3.) while running, pull one spark plug wire off and see if there is any difference in case a coil or plug wire is bad or weak and not producing a full burn in 1 of the cylinders.

Any help provided or where to look next would be GREATLY appreciated! I would rather spend the time tinkering than the money buying parts and replacing. Thanks.
~ JC1972
 

jerryjerry05

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17,927
Re: Help! 1978 Chrysler 25 hp - No Power, Smokes like Crazy

Fuel pump probably bad.If it hasn't ran in a long time it probably will smoke till you run it for a while.
It's gonna smoke some forever.
Change all the hoses on the motor.
Reset the air screw on the front of the carb.In till it just bottoms.Then out 1 and 1/8 turn.
The final adjustment should be in the water,in gear and warm.J
 

ONERCBOATER

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Re: Help! 1978 Chrysler 25 hp - No Power, Smokes like Crazy

oh, and dont rev engine in neutral bad things can happen if only they get the chance. The longer two strokes sit the smokier they are when run from my exp, some smoke is good you know your getting lube. sounds like you managed to save the poor old motor and give her new life. My guess is provided the timing and fuel mixtures are correct, it will run better and better during the 1st few hrs of operation.

Sean
 

JC1972

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Re: Help! 1978 Chrysler 25 hp - No Power, Smokes like Crazy

Thanks to both of you... sounds like good advice.

Jerry,
I pulled both the fuel lines from the motor and inspected carefully. They both are free from obstructions and very clean. I pulled the fuel filter cover off, filter was completely free of sediment, discoloration, gunk or goo of any kind. The fuel tank is a plastic tank (no more than 7 years old). It is clean. The fuel line/ball from the tank to the motor is brand new.

As the budget is tight, and I am also a tightwad, This brings up 2 questions before I take actions:

1.) Given what I said above, do you really think I need to replace the fuel lines?
2.) Is there a way to test the fuel pump diaphragm before replacing it? Perhaps cranking the motor with the starter and measure the amount of fuel/time segment with a partial finger over the line to simulate pressure and identify volume & capacity?

Not meaning to be a pain here Jerry, your advice is very appreciated and if I am going 'too deep', just reply with a "shut up and do it" response. Ha!

Sean,
You mentioned "provided fuel mixtures and timing are correct"... just how finicky are these motors? When I replaced the points I had absolutely no knowledge of whether they were set 180 apart and could find no marks of any kind on the motor, timing plate, or shaft. I spun the motor very slowly on each point set to identify when they started to open, then with feeler gauges I found the place where the point gap was biggest and replaced the point set at that location on the shaft. Is doing it that way probable that I have a problem there? I suppose if the old ones were off, the new ones would be to by doing that.

Thanks again
~ JC1972
 

ONERCBOATER

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Messages
536
Re: Help! 1978 Chrysler 25 hp - No Power, Smokes like Crazy

how finicky is fuel air mixture.... very lol there is a narrow range of fuel air mixture that supports combustion, and even narrower range that provides usable power,,,, and even narrower that isn't too hot and too lean leading to poor old motors starving for oil or cooking off pistons. I generally recommend tune at idle to best smoothest idle, then richen it just a tad ... this gives you a small safety margin of richness=oil. You can try all sorts of tests for fuel pump... essentially it is either pumping enough or not.... it is a cheap and likely needed replacable/consumable part in my opinion, and believe me if you spent $50 on a kit (way high estimate) you would be very thankful compared to paddling home upwind.
 

JC1972

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Re: Help! 1978 Chrysler 25 hp - No Power, Smokes like Crazy

Here is an interesting update. I took Sean's advice and decided to try and run the motor for awhile (I figured maybe 30 mins or so) to see if the smoking would back off a bit. Plus I wanted to tinker with the idle adjustment screw setting as Jerry mentioned. It didn't ease up on the heavy smoking during that time.

However in that 30 minutes (more like 20-25 really) the motor consumed close to 2-1/4 gallons of fuel! This was only at a high idle and never in gear. The water in my test tank looks like I dumped a quart of oil in it (remember what I said early on about the oil slick it seems to produce).

Is it possible that the when you say "the fuel pump is bad" you mean it is pushing too much? My first line of thought was that the float is stuck open. This also poses the questions of harmony between the fuel pump and float mechanisms: If the fuel pump generates both volume and pressure, then how does a simple lightweight float apparatus ever regulate the flow of fuel? Wouldn't pressurized fuel just push its way past the float needle and 'hold' the float in an open position?

How can one accurately test and identify what is going on here?

I almost gave up on it... I called a local outboard mechanic and told him about my situation and inquired what it would cost to have him look at it. His response was "Best way to determine if a Chrysler is worth fixing is to throw it in your lake... and if it floats, then put money into it. If it sinks... leave it at the bottom of the lake". This kind of biased opinion pisses me off so I am pretty determined to do this myself if I can find the resources and means to do so. Thanks again for everyone's help here!

~JC1972
 

Frank Acampora

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12,004
Re: Help! 1978 Chrysler 25 hp - No Power, Smokes like Crazy

The float has a TREMENDOUS mechanical advantage at the inlet needle. It can easily seal against the 6 pounds maximum that the fuel pump can deliver.

2 1/4 gallons is too much. You need to check that:
1. the float height is set correctly. With the carb inverted, under its own weight, the float should sit level with the carb casting.
2. The inlet needle seat or needle itself is not worn, leaking fuel. Again, with the carb inverted, you should not be able to blow through the inlet elbow.
3. Pump diaphragm does not have pinholes, leaking fuel into the bypass. Just spend the 5 bucks for a diaphragm and gasket and replace it. It is a regular maintenance item.
Float is fuel soaked (waterklogged) and will not seat the needle. This is rare. If the float looks good, it probably is.

Wisea## Mechanic should be tossed in the lake! Most of these guys don't know anything about the engines yet are willing to say they are crap. Take this as a warning and don't bring any engine to this guy.
 

JC1972

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Re: Help! 1978 Chrysler 25 hp - No Power, Smokes like Crazy

Good Morning All,

Thought I would update my findings today while still fresh in case anyone else with same issues as me reads this sometime down the line.

After Frank's reply above, I pulled the carb back off, and while still level and full of fuel, attempted to blow into the fuel inlet of the carb. It was obvious that the float needle is doing its job as I could not muster enough air pressure in my lungs to blow past it. I then flipped it upside down and allowed the fuel in the bowl to run out. Then, upside down, I blew into the inlet. There was no resistance and it was easy. I did this numerous times until I was satisfied that the float assembly was working correctly.

I then removed the bowl and did a visual inspection to see the float was sitting level with the bowl as Frank described in the above post. It was slightly off so I adjusted it as prescribed and repeated the 'blow test' multiple times. All good.

With the carb off, I got to thinking about the fuel pump. I plugged the end of the fuel line that attaches to the carb with a bolt, pulled the spark plugs, and hooked up the fuel tank. I squeezed the ball a couple times and pulled the rope. Raw fuel sprayed out of the cylinders and also came out at the bottom of the lower unit just above the cavitation plate.

I assume the check valves in the fuel pump are designed to ensure that if fuel pressure (or perhaps someone squeezing the daylights out of the fuel ball) are too much it doesn't damage the diaphragm. If this is true, then the only way for fuel to enter the engine, in my test setup, would be that the diaphragm is allowing fuel to pass directly through it.

Seems the interesting point here is that this situation rules out the idea that a fuel pump is either good or bad, works or doesn't work. There can be an in between as mine is definitely pumping fuel to the carb and is also allowing fuel directly into the crankcase.

~JC
 

Nordin

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Re: Help! 1978 Chrysler 25 hp - No Power, Smokes like Crazy

Seems that your diafragma is broken. If there is a hole in the diafragma, fuel passes direct into the cylinder not passing through the carb.
 

JC1972

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Re: Help! 1978 Chrysler 25 hp - No Power, Smokes like Crazy

Gents,

I received the diaphragm and gasket today. When I pulled the fuel pump from the block, it was obvious. The old diaphragm was completely shot and had big tears in both the top and bottom sections.

I installed the new diaphragm and gasket after a thorough cleaning and inspection of the fuel pump apparatus. I barely even touched the starter button and she came to life! The term 'sewing machine' is very accurate to describe how this thing idles... amazing.

I was so jazzed I pulled the Evinrude 18 off my 15' Tuffy trihull and put the Chrysler on, hooked everything up and headed to the nearest lake.

Once again started and idled VERY smoothly. Came out of the hole ok, a little lumpy in the midrange, but no where near the power of my 67' 18hp Evinrude, midrange or top end! :confused:

Guys I cannot imagine that an 18hp can outperform a 25hp, regardless of brand.

Here is what I can tell you:

1. Idles INCREDIBLE.
2. Power coming UP the RPM range= smooth, but not terribly strong.
3. Constant midrange throttle produces a "thump" in the water as if it is missing.
4. Coming DOWN on the throttle = strange hesitations and misfires.
4. No prop cavitation.
5. WOT RPM's seem low, guessing around 3700-4100, but only a guess.
6. 18hp Evinrude weighs 65 lbs and 25hp Chrysler weighs 105.

Any suggestions would be VERY helpful. I refuse to believe this motor is inferior by that much. Thanks to all of you again for guiding me to the fuel pump problem!

~JC
 

Nordin

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Re: Help! 1978 Chrysler 25 hp - No Power, Smokes like Crazy

How is your fuelmixneedle set at the carb: I have 2 Chryslers25Hp and they are very sensitve to the seting on the needle. 1 turn out from seated is a good referens but just 1/8 turn ccw (leaner) or 1/8 cw (richer) makes big differenses. Both engines will hesitat (cough, sneez) in a spec. RPM range when slowing down. Mine engines are 1973 and 1975 and they are from the same enginemodel but have smaller volume if yours is a 1978. The 1978 25Hp have the same block as the 1973-1975 30Hp. Another thought, is the engine right propt. Your 25Hp have the large 1:2 gearratio it has 10 inch dia.props. Mine has 8 inch dia. props. What size do you have? 10X10, 10X11 1/4 ........ or larger? Max RPM at WOT should be around 4700-5100 RPM.1 inch smaller pitch will result in 200-400 higher RPM.
Goodluck
 

JC1972

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Re: Help! 1978 Chrysler 25 hp - No Power, Smokes like Crazy

Nordin,

I was under the impression that the adjustment screw on the carb was an idle speed screw. I did not fool with it as the idle is perfect. I can tell you that it is set 1-1/8 turn out from lightly seated as Jerry recommended in the first reply of this post. Perhaps I should play with it a little and see if it can bring more RPM's and power at WOT.

As to the prop. It is a Michigan AWC 940. Did some searching and according to this link:

http://www.go2marine.com/docs/mfr/michiganwheel/michigan.pdf

Michigan claims on page 34 that the AWC940 or 152002 (same prop) prop is to be used on Chrysler 25hp from 1968-1978. They say the 10" prop is for 1995-1998 model years.

They also say the 152002 is 8-1/2" dia w/ 8-1/2 pitch. This is what is on the motor.

Unless I hear some other suggestions, it sounds like there are 2 things I can try:

1. Make some minor adjustments on the carb mixture screw.
2. Go back and identify TDC on #1 piston and mark the flywheel and block, then calculate exactly 36 degrees from there and make sure the points are opening at that precise moment. Is that a correct statement? Should they be just starting to break open at 36 degrees, or should they be at spec (.020) at 36 degrees?

I will do these procedures one at a time and test run it between.

Any other help is ALWAYS welcome. Thanks Again!

~JC
 

Nordin

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Re: Help! 1978 Chrysler 25 hp - No Power, Smokes like Crazy

Want to changes some of my data about the block and gearcase ratio. The 25Hp had not the 30Hp block in 1978. It was in 1982 sorry, sorry my mistake.
Your 1978 is same as my 1973 and 1975, block and gearcase and so on. It has 14:21 gearratio. Michigans information sounds wrong and odd. Chrysler did not made any 25Hp in 1968-1972. It was intruduced in 1973 with the 30Hp as a new designed engine. The 25Hp had same gearcase as the 20Hp BUT, BUT a different prop. The 20Hp had 8 1/2X8 1/2, the 25Hp 8 1/2X10. The 30Hp had 10 inch diameter prop.
If you have 8 1/2X8 1/2 prop you have a prop from a 20Hp. Maybee that what Michigan say in their information.

About the timing you can not adjust it. It is fixed. Set the points 020 at highest level on the cam. You can set the throttle pick-up.
The nylonroller should touches the throttlecam at the cam mark and the distance between the cam and the roller should be equal on both sides. Adjust with the eccentric screw holding the nylonroller. Turn the magneto plate against the stator stop, check that the carb butterfly is horisontal (WOT). If not, adjust the length of the throttle cam rod.
Goodluck
 

JC1972

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Re: Help! 1978 Chrysler 25 hp - No Power, Smokes like Crazy

Nordin you are the man!!!

I had not even thought about something so simple as looking to see if the butterfly was completely open. No, it wasn't.

Did some inspecting to see what was holding it up. Mine has what appears to be a WOT adjusting screw (set screw) on the throttle twist rod in the actual tiller handle. This set screw was turned all the way in only allowing the throttle to be about 2/3 of the way open at WOT.

Just backed it out so the butterfly is completely horizontal. The throttle cam plate and linkage appear correct (WOT is 'on the mark', as is idle).

HEADED FOR THE LAKE TO FIND OUT!:D Will update when I get back. Thanks a million!

~JC
 

Nordin

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Re: Help! 1978 Chrysler 25 hp - No Power, Smokes like Crazy

Yes, you have a throttle stop on the tiller and it also inclued a idle speed screw. The set screw on the throttle stop (under the steering handle) should touch the steering handle wall at WOT. Then you can set the idle speed with the screw on the steering handle or with the screw on the magneto control lever (but this should be used if you have a remote control).
 

JC1972

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Re: Help! 1978 Chrysler 25 hp - No Power, Smokes like Crazy

OK, long story short... I didn't make it to the lake yesterday. Just got in from the lake this evening and here is the good:

Idles fabulous
WOT is strong and fast, motor runs as I expected it should given the HP rating.
Excessive smoking has completely gone away and smokes as I expect a 50:1 two stroke motor should.

Well, that was for the first 45 minutes or so...

Nordin, that coughing or sneezing you spoke of, yes mine does that as well on DECREASING throttle. However, after about 45 minutes it slowly started doing it on increasing throttle. Not good. It acts like it has hiccups. When under load they hit pretty hard! Hard enough that I idled my way back to the dock for fear of hurting my transom or the motor. I couldn't identify a specific rhythm to it, just every few seconds or so. Almost like someone pushing the kill switch (momentarily) when motor is under load.

There was no loss of power, I checked to see the fuel tank valve was open and breathing.

I think tomorrow I will try:

1.) identify and inspect all grounding and kill switch wires for intermittent, dirty, cracked, or frayed connections.
2.) Pull flywheel back off and recheck points gap and connections
3.) Double check fuel filter screen

Oh, this motor does NOT have a keyed on/off switch. Just a push button starter and a push button kill switch.

As always, help is VERY MUCH APPRECIATED! I'm getting closer to having an awesome motor!
 

Nordin

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Re: Help! 1978 Chrysler 25 hp - No Power, Smokes like Crazy

Sounds to me you have trouble with the ignition. Best is to check of spark at the plugs with a stroblight to se if it looses spark. Also check if you got a spun hub at the prop, do not sounds like that, but to be sure. Disconnect the wires to the killerswitch, to be really sure at the points if you got grounding in the wire.
Goodluck
 

Nordin

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Re: Help! 1978 Chrysler 25 hp - No Power, Smokes like Crazy

Another thing that appers to me. Is the forwardgear slip in the cluchdog? Under load there is alot of pressure on the clutchdog. Because you says it hit the transom really hard. The edges on the clutchdog must be sharp, not rounded. To check this you must disassamble the gearcase and check the edges on the dog and the forwardgear.
 

JC1972

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Re: Help! 1978 Chrysler 25 hp - No Power, Smokes like Crazy

Nordin,

Thanks for all of your help and suggestions!

The moment the problem occurs, it is as if the motor is dying, or stumbling for just a second... certainly no RPM spiking. At first I wondered if my prop was hitting big rocks on the bottom of the lake. My gut tells me it is the ignition cutting out for just an instant, but I obviously don't know that for certain.

In the instance of a spun prop hub or worn clutch dog, Wouldn't the 'slipping' cause the motor RPM's to rise for that moment when the problem occurs?

~JC
 
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