Force 120 spark Plug gap

[Gone4two]

I recently purchased a 97" pontoon with a Force 120 outboard. I want to change the spark plugs, and looked at the ones that are currently in it. They are NGK BUZHW. I went on the search for this plug locally, but with no success. I was able to find them on the net, but they are around 11 bucks a piece. Wow, that is outrageous! I went back to the net and looked for cross reference on plug brands. The BUZHW crosses over to the following:

NGK STK: 2147
AC Delco: M40FFX
Autolite: 2852
Bosch P/N: WEA
Champion P/N: QL76V
Champion STK: 898
Denso P/N: SF-50
Denso STK: 6001
GM OEM NR: 5613574
Splitfire: SM264D
NGK TYPE: MARINE
Thread size: 14MM
Hex size: 0,81
Reach: 0,5
Seat type: GASKET
Projected tip: SURFACE

Now, armed with information, I called my local NAPA store and they came up with the AC Delco M40FFX which cost me a whopping 2 bucks each. This is my delimma! The M40FFX have electrodes, where the BUZHW are flat. Can I use these plugs? If so, what is the gap? (plugs are old stock, obviously, so the tips are bent and need to be re-gapped). I have searched everywhere and can not get the gap. Does anyone know?

Thanks,

Gone4two

 

[hoofbite]

Re: Force 120 spark Plug gap

Don't jump the gun cuz I'm no expert but you should stick with the same type of plugs that were in there "surface gap" plugs. Try the ngk buh should be the same as what you pulled out and they are around $7 for 2 canadadian dollars anyways.

Like I said be patient and wait maybe until one of the resident experts chimes in here. But I wouldn't start that motor with the electrode type plugs in there you pay damage something.

 

[hismajst]

Re: Force 120 spark Plug gap

I can only speak from when I pulled my 120 Force out of my Bayliner. Given it was a 1990 120HP L Drive force. Anyhow, I decided to install a spark plug and check protrusion while I had the head off. I used the UL18V plugs from Champion (the flush style with no electrode protruding). It was flush with the head. Needless to say when I put it all back together and used a compression tester (in place of the spark plug-naturally) it protruded only about 0.15 more than the UL18V spark plug into the cylinder, and this was enough to stop the engine from cranking over due to the piston contacting the compression tester adapter. Due to these finding I have concluded it is a REALLY good idea to only go with the flush style spark plugs. Cheap insurance as they say. Plus I have always liked the idea of there being no electrode to break off and get embedded in a piston. Just my 2 cents. They weren't all that expensive either.