Force 150 not charging

[deme]

Force 150 not charging I think it's a 1990 the boat is anyone able to help thank's.

 

[32251]

Re: Force 150 not charging

I just bought a boat with a Force motor on it and am learning about it. The voltage regulator/rectifier box I do believe is the part that sends the voltage back to the battery. Read up on that part and check it.

 

[pnwboat]

Re: Force 150 not charging

Have you checked the voltage across battery terminals with a meter and motor running at least 2000 RPM's? If so and you're reading less than 13 VDC, It could be.....

1. Bad battery cable connection. Check ground and positive cables.

2. Bad rectifier. You should be reading somewhere around 14 to 15 VDC between the red lead on rectifier and ground with engine at 2000 RPM's. Also, check for bad connections on rectifier.

3. Bad stator. Stator should be putting out something in the neighborhood of 16VAC to the rectifier. I believe on your motor the AC output wires are yellow going to the rectifier.

 

[deme]

Re: Force 150 not charging

Thank's for the help I will check the output on the Stator,It starts & runs ok, I have 2 yellow wires that come off the Stator & will check them should they be putting something out. My force manual is on order.

 

[deme]

Re: Force 150 not charging

should there be volts coming off the 2 yellow wires that come off the Stator when running?

 

[pnwboat]

Re: Force 150 not charging

Yes, about 16 volts A.C. w/ motor running at 2000 RPM's. If you don't see the voltage with the wires connected to the rectifier/regulator, disconnect one of the yellow wires and check again. If no voltage, or say 9 or 12 volts A.C., then stator is probably bad.

If you do see 16 volts A.C. on the yellow wires, then check the red or orange wire on your rectifier/regulator. You should have 14.5 volts D.C on that wire. If not, then your rectifier/regulator is probably bad.

 

[john from md]

Re: Force 150 not charging

+1 on what pnwboat said.

John

 

[deme]

Re: Force 150 not charging

Thank you so much for the help turns out the guy I bought the boat from had the + red wire on the starter terminal switch too + positive terminal works great.

 

[Snakeforce]

Hi. New member. 1992(3) Force 150 with Thunderbolt Ignition. I say 1992(3) because I understand that they did not make them after '92, but my boat was purchased new by me and is a '93 model. Not sure how to confirm the year of the engine. I imagine serial number. Is there a listing somewhere on line that I can research?

I had what appears to be a perfect storm, charging-wise. Tach would not register below 2000-2500 RPM. Voltmeter showed discharge when running. Dual batteries so lots of capacity to run total loss. Confirmed no output to the battery with DVM across battery terminals. Both yellow (stator) leads of rec/reg read open circuit in both directions to ground. Bought a new rec/reg on fleabay ($36 vs $250 from Merc) and tach started working again. But, battery still not getting a charge.

Manual says to check resistance across the two stator lead. Should be 2 ohms or less, I got infinite resistance. Also checked each leg to ground and got infinity. So no shorts, but also no continuity across the coils. I think stator is shot.

I put my DVM on AC volts and checked each stator leg to ground. One leg is very low. Other is around 6 or so volts. I need to do the test at higher RPM since I was not aware of that point until I read this thread.


My question is, if I have infinite resistance across the stator leads, do you agree this means the stator is done and needs to be replaced? I have found errors in manuals before so wanted to check. In the meantime, I'll go run the engine with a DVM on the stator leads and get the revs over 2K and report my findings.

Any input would be appreciated.

If the stator is shot, any suggestions on aftermarket replacements? I hate to buy used since they are just as old as mine and probably waiting to die. I also have looked on fleabay and find many for sale. But none with the two bullet connectors that my stator leads have. All seem to use ring terminals. I'm guessing older than mine. I can change the terminals. But curious as to age based on ring terminals.

Thanks,
Rob

 

[SkiDad]

welcome, check out outboardignition.com for the parts you need and also the PDF troubleshooting guides for ignition parts. my guess is either your stator is bad (the 1/2 that charges) or that your rectifier is bad - you can get more concrete tests on that site - it helped me.

 

[Nordin]

Snakeforce, this thread is 6 years old.
Start your own thread and do not hijack an old one.

You will get more answers then.

 

[Snakeforce]

Okay. I've always thought it better to keep all the info regarding a single topic all in one thread. Makes it much easier for the guy searching threads for his answer.

IBut if the preference here is start a new thread every time, I'll do that.

But to close this latest entry out, I ran the engine again above 2K rpm, up to 3K and only saw a blip of voltage on my DVM with the leads connected to the two yellow output leads from the stator. My guess is vibration was making the open circuit in the stator coils make and brake. Not sure how the tach signal can be good, but the alternator is not.

Ordered a new CDI stator from marineengines.com. All the on-line outfits sell the same CDI stators. These guys were closer, friendly on the phone and did not gouge me on shipping. Also ordered the flywheel puller off fleabay. Will hopefully have this all sorted out by late next week.

Thanks for the help.

regards,
Rob