Do I need a puller to R & R 35 HP Chrysler Propeller shaft seal?

wickware

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Joined
Jun 20, 2009
Messages
1,286
Hello & Help Help !!

Do I need a puller to R & R 35 HP (1971 or 72) Chrysler Propeller shaft seal?

1. I have pulled the propeller and two hex bolts, a puller appears needed. Is
a puller or some force needed? Please Advise! Puller is my guess.

2. Are the two holes perpendicular to the hex bolts for a puller or used with
bolts and washers to pull the housing behind the propeller?

3. This is a larger leak to loose the oil showing in the attachment in 8 hours

Boat's Lower Unit Small Leak Tilted.JPG

Boat's Lower Unit Seal Leak In 8 Hours.jpg.

Thanks,
JOW
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: Do I need a puller to R & R 35 HP Chrysler Propeller shaft seal?

You can thread two lengths of 1/4 X 20 all thread into the holes and make a puller from them. OR: you can tap the gland with a mallet and piece of wood so you don't bend the ears where the Allen head bolts go in. Turn the gland so the ears are clear of the leg then alternately tap them to wiggle out the gland. It is not in very tight, there is only friction from an O-ring seal holding it in after you remove the bolts.

However, you can not just pull on the prop shaft to remove the gland because there is a nut inside holding the gearcase to the leg. This nut interferes with the reverse gear if not removed.
 

wickware

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Re: Do I need a puller to R & R 35 HP Chrysler Propeller shaft seal?

Thanks Captain!!

I have the pullers, mallets and 1/4 X 20 all threads from my years of automotive, small engines, Handyman work and Etc.. The gland appeared so tight when I tried a small screwdriver and I stopped (breaking the gland is what I do not need). Will a good WD-40 soaking at the joining surfaces help? I might stop by my local parts Marina to get a better picture of what you are describing and the needed O-ring seal (if stocked).

My fear is that the gland will possibly easily break from years of being sealed if there are any mating aluminum surfaces w/o a gasket. Does my Pic show that we have the same gland? The 1/4" threaded holes tells me they are the same or close. Was your gland too tight to pop with a small screwdriver between surfaces, using a small mallet?

Thanks Again For The Info. I really like the option to attach Pics. Pics Are Worth A Thousand Words with technical communications. Last, Have you seen or used one of the manuals on CD that covers about 1966-90 (and your opinion if you have)?
Joe
 

wickware

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Messages
1,286
Re: Do I need a puller to R & R 35 HP Chrysler Propeller shaft seal?

Thanks Captain Frank!!

The successful mission caused no pains (except pulling the old seal). There has to be a trick or tool I have forgotten. I was able to drive the lip out and twist and tear it out with pliers. My major concern was not to break something or over spend on this 1968 boat with a 73 model engine that makes 5-8 trips per season, "maybe".

The job looks good after the 24 hrs leak test compared to the 8 hrs leak test before replacing the seal and O-ring.

Maybe you can tell me where to catch a fish here in North Texas (Forth Worth Area) or the boat is retired.

Joe
 

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  • Boat's Lower Unit old Seal's  8 hrs Leak test.JPG
    Boat's Lower Unit old Seal's 8 hrs Leak test.JPG
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  • Boat's Lower Unit Seal Needs Replacing.JPG
    Boat's Lower Unit Seal Needs Replacing.JPG
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  • Boat's Lower Unit new Seal's  before 24hrs Leak test.JPG
    Boat's Lower Unit new Seal's before 24hrs Leak test.JPG
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  • Boat's Lower Unit new Seal's after  24hrs Leak test.JPG
    Boat's Lower Unit new Seal's after 24hrs Leak test.JPG
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