Chrysler Magnapower 70 ignition woes

Isa4325

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Went for my first start after cleaning and checking the engine out for crank, compression, and plug wire voltages. My first crank with fuel/oil returned a pop and smoke bellowing out from below the flywheel as if from the Stator?????? Voltage to electronic ignition but nothing coming out to coil. No burnt wires anywhere, new coil, older ignition box, new distributor cap, ?? about electronic ignition.

Forgot to say help please.
 
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Isa4325

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Turns out the wires running to the flywheel are for charging the battery only, nothing to do with starting. Back to back tracking the ignition to find the failing part. I'm thinking its the CD since I have no powder to the distributor from the coil. First part to order, a CD.
 

Isa4325

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jerryjerry05

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Always include the year and serial#
outboardignitiondotcom they have test procedures for your system.
Open the site and the top tab that says "troubleshooter"
Then the magnapower link.

It's possible the smoke is a shorted stator?
The regulator went when it backfired?
The pre-amp or eye could be bad?



Deep cycle battery? Don't use.

​The replacement pack starts about $260 from CDI
​e-bay has used and new.
This site should have it too.


I think you can do the basic tests with a regular analog meter.
But the more complicated needs a DVA or peak reading volt meter.


Crooked not crocked:)
 

Isa4325

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Yes I will be working from the spark plugs backwards to find where the power starts then replace parts from there checking for power back to the plugs. I'm quite sure the stator is toast since I can see burnt coils right where the smoke came out, but again the stator is only for the battery charging and its first contact is with the electronic ignition that still shows voltage plus continuity.
Thank you Jerry
1979 Chrysler 707HE
 

Isa4325

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1972 Chrysler Magnapower 70 HP 707HE

OK, Here is my current findings:
Using a Spark Gap Tester - no spark to plug from distributor
No spark to coil wire from coil
Voltage present on blue when cranking = 9.4 Volts DC
Connecting to the white/black wire at distributor and rotting engine by hand = 12.54 Volts to ,018 and back - Cranking readings were 12.54 to 5.44 Volts
DITTO Then disconnect white/black from distributor, strike on ground at engine - nothing.
Check DVA voltage on the gray wire on coil - WHAT IS A DVA METER? I have the ability to check ac voltage but got nothing.

Lets talk Hydraulics
Picture Included:

This Tilt/Trim pump has four ports and only three are actually open, the forth is blocked internally and has no threads.
My trim works completely and has held now for four days.

The tilt does not work and I believe I have the input and output ports reversed from all I've seen. Lines one and three are reversed here per the repair manual but the repair manual also shows port # 2 being used but not possible on this unit.
 

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Nordin

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Ignition issue.......If you have 12VDC at blue wire when ignition ON and no spark when striking white/black wire to ground, then you have to check the distributor cap and igniton coil.

Hold the HT wire from ignition coil about 1/4 inch from ground and then strike white/black wire to ground.
If no spark then coil or CD module is bad.
If spark then check the distributor cap.
 

Isa4325

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I have no spark in the coil wire going to distributor. No voltage on grey wire on top of coil, voltage positive to Blue wire going to CD Unit, positive in red wire going to CD Unit. White/Black wire does not spark when struck to ground with ignition ON. CD module bad? If so I can not find a new one or used one. Can I convert a MSD Ignition to this system?
 

Nordin

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From that, yes it seems like the CD module is bad.

If you have a points distributor you can convert to regular battery ignition like old cars, convert to MSD street ignition, look for a used working factory CD module or buy an aftermarket CDI from CDI Electronic partnumber 115-3301.

If you have electronic distributor you can use MSD system, used factory CD module or the 115-3301 from CDI.

If you go for regular battery ignition like old cars you have to change the ignition coil the other options you can use the one you have and 115-3301 from CDI include a coil.

BTW there is a thread not so long time ago about to use MSD street ignition and there is also a youtube clip by McEverett who have done this on a 105Hp Chrysler.
 

Isa4325

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Saw that and could only find one like mine for $175.00 but was thinking of just using a coil and battery to my distributor with one set of points. Coil would be cheaper.
 

Isa4325

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Any reason I could't install this ignition coil on a distributor using points instead of a CD Module on my Chrylser Maganapower 70 HP 707HE?

Ignition Coil:[FONT=&quot] High Vibrational Coil; Primary Resistance: 0.6 Ohms; Secondary Resistance: 9.5 K Ohms; Turn Ratio: 123:1; Maximum Voltage: 45000 Volt[/FONT]
Quantity Per Vehicle:1

The replacement CD Module is $378.00 New or $175.00 Used, coil setup is a lot cheaper and available in a wider availability.
 

Nordin

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You can use that one.
You should avoid coils with oil insulation and internal resistors.
 

Isa4325

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You can use that one.
You should avoid coils with oil insulation and internal resistors.


Would you have a suggestion? If not I will continue to research automotive coils. Normally when using a coil it would have a ballast resistor in line to the coil to keep the coil from overheating. Is this still true here in the outboard since using a coil without a resistor within?
 
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Nordin

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That youtube video will give you advise.
Sorry what I trying to say is that use a coil which is made for 12VDC, many coils are made for 9VDC and you have a ballast resistor connecting to it.

The 9VDC coil is made for giving good spark when starting in cold enviorment. When cranking the voltage drops the a 9VDC coil will produce suffiant spark and then have the ballast resistor to get the coil to operate with right voltage when running.

When boating you usually do not run in cold enviorment.
 

Isa4325

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That particular coil has a built in resistor but you had said not to use a coil with a built in resistor. Is there a reason for that, like it's a 9VDC coil and you suggest using a 12VDC coil, without a resistor.
 

Nordin

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Yes you can use that coil but be sure you wire it so you include the resistor.
 
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