1972 Chrysler 55HP Water NOT PUMPING to power head

tommy56p

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I have replaced 10 blade water pump and new 130 degree thermostat and grommet. It pumped fine in the water drum and at the dock. When she got up to WOT the pump stopped pumping and my overheat light and alarm went off. I quickly shut her down and got towed back to the dock. Getting her home i took off the lower unit and the impeller was in good shape. I put it all back together and ran her in the water drum and she spit water just fine. Went out on the lake and at the dock i checked the discharge of water. Pumping just fine. Got her out and at almost at WOT and my overheat light and alarm went off again. Shut her down and thank god the wind was in my favor and drifted back to the dock. After blowing all water outlets and lines with compressed air there were NO BLOCKAGES. I pulled the cylinders head off and found #2 compression ring on the head gasket SPLIT and hanging down into the water jacket. I figured the compression going into the water jacket probably was causing erratic pumping at idle and slow speeds, and not pumping at WOT issues . I replaced the head gasket and ran her in the water barrel and I had NO WATER PUMPING AT ALL. The head gasket solved a lot of other issues that it had. Runs smooth as glass, starts right up and acting like a new motor. However this water cooling issue is driving me crazy. I took off the lower gear case off again today and again everything was fine again. When I install the lower end the tube from the pump to the power-head is attached and tight. I always place the grommet on the bottom of the tube just barely attached. Installing the lower end so i can see the grommet going down into the pump housing, so I know the pick up tube is attached correctly. I started the motor with the thermostat hose off the housing and no water running through the power-head. Please help!!!!
 
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tommy56p

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Exhaust Port Plate: Since the pumping water from the pump enters the exhaust port plate first before entering the head and water jackets, Could this be teh issue????? I am so afraid to remove these ancient flimsy ass bolts in fear of snapping the heads off. This motor was always a fresh water motor. For what I see so far the ports and water jackets are very clean.
 

jerryjerry05

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I'm not sure the water goes to the exhaust first???
I think it's the last place it goes.

If it went to the exhaust first, it would just dump out on the ground??

The old impeller, was it in 1 piece when removed?
​Or missing a few vanes?

If it's been a fresh water motor? then the screws might come out easier??
 

tommy56p

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Thank you for responding jerryjerry! The old impeller didn't even need to be changed. It was all intact and in good shape, I replaced just because I had a new one along with the oil seals. Although i am wondering if the last owner had an impeller grenade, replaced it and still had issues. I installed the impeller counter clockwise with the housing upside down, so when the housing is installed it will spin clockwise. No binding, pin is in place.

I tried getting one screw off the exhaust plate cover with a large screwdriver and a 7/16 open end wrench to use as leverage. Well, needless to say the one ear on the screw broke off. I also tried to use a socket on the now broken screw/bolt, but it doesn't work. Looks like someone was in the Exhaust Port Plate before because there is RTV on the gaskets. That individual probably did not use anti seize compound on the bolts. I had a threaded stud break off the cylinder drain cover that attaches the shift bell crank. What a night mare. Managed to tap that and mcguyver a fix with a new stud. Therefore I know these bolts will snap on me.

I have flushed every tube, and water ports with compressed air and water. seems to be everything is free flowing. I am stumped! any other suggestions???

​Thanks, Tommy P
 

Nordin

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I had a similar issue with a 45Hp (they are very similar to the 55Hp, just a smaller bore) that did not pump water with a new impeller installed.
When I flush it with a garden hose (put the hose directly to the pic up tube with the LU off the leg) I did not get any water to the hose that goes from the head to the exhaust plate cover.

This engine had overheated pretty bad. There is a about 5 inch long cover called "exhaust water jacket cover" (looks like a banana) where the water tube enter the block.
This cover had melted because of the overheating and all water just went out and down the inside of the leg.
The water did not even enter the block water jackets

To reach this cover you have to remove the exhaust port cover and the exhaust cover spacer with all gaskets.

Maybe this can be your issue too.
I know early 35, 45 and 55Hp had these cover, but later 45Hp did not (what I see from the parts catalog I have).

Check if you get any water to the hose that goes from the head to the exhaust cover plate when you put the hose directly to the pic up tube with the LU off.
 

tommy56p

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Mr. Nordin.... Makes sense! I took off the exhaust port cover, gaskets and spacer right down to the block today. As stubborn as these bolts were to remove i only managed to snap the heads off of three. I saturated them with PB Blaster and then heat from map gas with a vise grip, Slowly I worked all the broken pieces out...THANK GOD.

This BANANA probably not available correct??? I have a parts manual for my motor and I don't see anything that resembles a banana or tube. This makes a lot of sense, at first at wot i lost pump water. at Idle she was fine. Last time out I didn't even get to full throttle and she stopped pumping. After I changed teh broken head gasket, I lost pump water even running in the barrel.

Same as me i overheated her pretty bad second time out. Then it was ok next time out. I did install a overheat combo flashing light and alarm. Good thing I did because the motor would have cooked itself. I did check the head for warpage with a straight edge and granite block at my friends shop. Not warped at all (surprising).

BTW I took the exhaust port cover off and I found all ports and channels clear of obstruction. If you have a name of this banana or part number I would appreciate it. Since i have the covers off i will look deeper for this part. You say I can access the banana from the exhaust port and replace it???????

Thank you my friend.
Tommy P
 

Nordin

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Yes you would access it when you moved the exhaust cover plate and the exhaust cover spacer.
It is screwed to the block with 12 screws, it is called exhaust water jacket cover and partnumber is 40866.

The odd thing is that it is in the part cataloge for 55Hp printed in 1968 BUT it is not in the cataloge for 45Hp printed in 1973.
I have worked with a lot of 45 and 55Hp, but as it is under the exhaust cover plate you do not see or notice it if it is there or not, because you do want to remove the exhaust cover plate if you not have to because of all the bolts that usually snap.

As I mention before, the engine I had problem with was a 45Hp and the year of it about late 60.es early 70.es. (1968-72) I think.
 

tommy56p

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Nordin,
I really think we have our wires crossed. My motor does not have a exhaust water jacket cover pn 40866. The part that you are referring to on my motor is called "Exhaust port plate" pn 40151-1. There are no screws holding this plate to the power-head. it attached to the exhaust cover spacer with three gaskets and the exhaust port cover. It is a bulging stainless steel plate with a bulge in it. The edges of this plate with the gasket covers that baffle in the exhaust port cover to keep the water out of the exhaust chamber. My exhaust port cover, plate spacer and gaskets are bolted by 10 bolts as one assembly. see photo below. There are no screws at all after you take the cover off. My Chrysler parts manual was printed in 1971 when my was manufactured for 1972. No such animal that is shaped like a banana with pn 40866.
 

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Nordin

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Okey, confirmed. Then Chrysler may change the castings in that time.
The exhaust water jacket cover pn 40866 I am refering to is attached to the block to the left of the exhaust ports, if you look in pic #2.
The exhaust cover plate and exhaust cover spacer as in pic #1 are the same as all 35-45Hp from this engine fammily I have worked with.

Have you pulled the thermostat and try to run it without thermostat?
Now when the block is off the leg, check the seal at the top of the pic up tube.
Sounds like your engine is "loosing" water somewhere.

You have changed the impeller? Check the impeller housing if it is very worn/pitted and also check the impeller key.
 
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tommy56p

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See the photo of the exhaust port chamber that is in yellow. The only thing that covers that channel is the gasket and the spacer plate. That is the exit for the water jacket water flow. All passages are clear and un-obstructed. When i took the covers, spacer and the gaskets off there was no sand or silt inside. Clean as you see in the pics of the covers. Sunday I am assembling the covers with new gaskets and stainless steel bolts and screws (with anti seize compound). I am going to remove the lower unit and shoot water up that pickup tube with the plug off the top of the head. If it spurts water then the cycle for circulation is complete and working.

I have a source that I have conferred with from Discount Marine Parts in Michigan. This is a husband and wife team that has a MASSIVE amount of NOS and used parts for Chrysler and other older outboards. He is in his 70's and has a thriving business of out of production parts for all out boards. He is also a retired OLD SCHOOL outboard specialist / mechanic (especially Chrysler Products). This gentleman is the one who told me to force water up the pickup tube with the lower unit off. He also stated that my water pump must have never received it's prime by not having the pump completely submerged in the water barrel.

Also when I installed the lower end i had the pump to pickup tube grommet just barely attached to the tube. I did this because i wanted to make sure the grommet and the tube was definitely seated in the pump housing. My source said, that grommet MUST be seated into the pump housing COMPLETELY first. The grommet must be all the way down inside the housing in order for it to seal and make the water flow up the tube with pressure. Let's see what happens when i try these tricks.

The impeller is brand new (never dry started), the pin is in good shape, and the pump housing and plate are as smooth as glass. It's also in the correct configuration.

My theory is still based on the broken head gasket ring (see picture #2) pushing full compression into the water jackets thus stopping the water from coming up the pickup tube and acting like a backwash at WOT.

If all this doesn't correct the overheating and water loss problem, only thing left is to remove the power head (and break more bolts...LOL) and check where the water from the pickup tube enters the bottom of the block.... Let's see what happens.
 

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jerryjerry05

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IF??? there is a possibility of the motor ever going to operate in salt water??
Then anti-seize becomes perma-seize.
Use a mix of anti-sieze and marine grease(50/50) or just marine grease.
 

tommy56p

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Useless information here fellas! Such a disappointment! Some people rave about this forums knowledge on this site. I think it STINKS! :lalala: Sorry.... Waste of time and energy for typing all this!
 
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jerryjerry05

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Eat do-do crybaby.
​Not our fault you got a problem that we can't fix when we can't touch it.
 

tommy56p

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HOW DARE YOU SAY THAT TO ME! Not your fault that you can't help when you can't touch it?????? THEN YOU SHOULDN'T BE ON HERE! And you tell me to EAT S H I T ....... Who's the baby here???? Have intercourse with yourself ...JERRY Jerk off!
 
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