'88 Force 85hp exhaust boot split open. I need help identifying a plastic part.

[Nordin]

I think you have done the tuning well.


When I tune I start at 1 1/4 turn out as a set point, warm it up and then start to turn the top carb mixscrew in 1/8 turn wait about 10 seconds then 1/8 in and so on until it starts to misfire due to lean mix. Note the setting.
Go back to 1 1/8 turn and then start to turn the screw out 1/8 wait 10 seconds and so on until it starts to load up due to to rich mix. Note the set point.
Then set the mixscrew at a midpoint.
op

Then the same procedure to mid and bottom carb.
After this you set the idle screw to 7-800 RPM in gear in water.

The clunking when shifting is normal and you should be resolute when shifting and snap into gear, not hesitate when shifting.

When cold start you use the cold start knob and pull it out then the throttle handle all way it goes forward. (it will stop really soon if the remote is correct adjusted)
Push the key in (choke) and turn key to start position. When it fires up drop the key, if the engine coughs give the key a short push to activate the choke.
You may give it some short pushes until it is warmed up.

 

[DunbarLtd]

Ok Nordin thanks for the info. On a side note i replaced the fuel pump gasket/ diaphragm and noticed it was leaking. Not a lot but i gotta take it apart and redo it.

Any idea on bolt torque??? They are flat head screws so i tightened as tight as i could get them with a screwdriver.

Do you fit the diaphragm and gasket on dry???

I used permatex high tack sealant. Brushed on. Maybe i put too much on?

Or the fuel pump housing is warped somehow???

Any ideas????

Thanks.

 

[jerryjerry05]

No need for sealer on the gasket/diaphragm.
But if you used it? it shouldn't leak??
Tighten from the center out.

 

[DunbarLtd]

Alright i replaced it with a new gasket. Appears to be ok after squeezing primer bulb.

But the darn rubber washer with the holes in it thats for fuel filter/screen cover has failed at the seams. It looks like the middle of the washer has a fibrous center. Weird design but maybe thats so they dont deteriorate since its rubber?

Strange but its leaking there too. Not around the sides of the washer but straight through the middle.

The new gasket set i picked up came with new diaphragm and some valve fiber washers and then also a larger round fiber washer about the same size as the rubber washer for screen cover.

I put that on there. Im not sure if thats the correct fit or not and the rubber one must be used but it looks like its sealing ok.

Will find out next time on water. I bought some power tune as well. When i removed the plugs after last time they had little carbon chunks on them. Try some quick kleen as well in the gas tank.

And the last thing is why in the heck do these carbs leak so bad when motor is raised most of the way up. Its terrible. Is that normal??? I put new valves on the float. Set the float so its level. I dont get it.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Leaking when tilted: you sure the floats are adjusted right?

 

[DunbarLtd]

I think so. In seloc it says 13/32"? But that would set them way too high i think.

I set them so they are parallel to the mouting surface? Of course setting them when they are upside down. Which would be set lower than the book says so less fuel in bowl or is this incorrect?

What is the proper setting? Does the drop make a difference as well? I have that so its almost touching the center part like it says in the book.

Also if the floats arent adjusted right what causes the absurd amount of fuel to pour out from the throat of the carbie?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Yes parallel when the carbs upside down.
The drop can affect it also.
Just about touching is right

Don't know why it's dumping lots of fuel?.

 

[DunbarLtd]

Alright the new gaskets fixed fuel leak. Still leaks when i tilt it but oh well. I'm hearing this is a common issue. So i wont worry about it for now.

I soaked some power tune over night then again mid day for an hour. Sprayed through carbs out on the water.

Looks like it gained 2.5 mph wot. Noticed it right away.

Local guy said Penzoil tcw3 is crap. Run the quicksilver or mercury stuf he says. Hmmmm....

I ran some quick kleen through 5 gal tank so far.

Any thoughts??? How many times should i run the power tune???

And it still coughs on startup but not as much. Often if fires right up no prob. Idling good so far. Didnt stall once.

Thanks for all the advice. Take care.

 

[jerryjerry05]

ANY!!!!!!!! TCW-3 oil will work.I use WM oil.
The local guy just might not like Penzoil????
Was talking to a neighbor about oils.
​I mentioned Penzoil. He says Pennsylvania CRUD! never use it.
​Turns out he lived close to a refinery in Pa. and his opinion was based on smelling the refinery for 30years

​If you mix the oil right 50-1 the power tune isn't needed but maybe 1-2 times a year, depending on how much you use the motor.
If the plugs get a lot of carbon build up, then the screen in the recirc system should be cleaned 1-2 times a year.
The screen is not made and a lot of places don't stock it.
​So if you clean it? be very careful not to ruin it.
​I spray some power tune in a jar and soak the end of the dog bone (with the screen) in the PT.
This dissolves the carbon.

​Any additives need oil to offset the amount you add.
Too many additives affect the running.


​Chevron with Techron fuel system cleaner. It comes in a black or grey bottle shaped like a funnel.

I mix 1 jug to 1 gal. gas and the right amount of TCW-3

​I unhook the regular fuel line before the pump and run this mix through the fuel system.
​About 10-15 min. then let it set for 1-2 hrs.
​Run it for 10 min. then let set for another hour.
Then go back to your regular fuel.
This mix cleans the complete system.
You need to make sure there is no water getting in the tank.

​I have a water separating filter on the motor and one between the tank and the squeezie.
​Ethanol tends to draw water and if left too long in the hose it seems to break down????

 

[DunbarLtd]

Ill try that techron stuff. Ive used it on my suv. Thanks.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Just remember to add the extra oil.

 

[DunbarLtd]

Okay will do.

The next thing on the list and this is pretty much the last issue is, of course, spark plug. I read alot and theres always a huge debate.

Mine had L76v champs when i bought it.

I called mercury they list a Ul18v. Even local mechanic said it should use Ul18v.

Then i read on here the L78V champs can be used.

Then again NGK BUHW-2

Overwhelmed to say the least.

Im looking for a hotter plug. Or should i not do that????

Is the L78V a hotter plug than the L76V????

Thanks....oh and im curious how much extra oil? Like an ounce or what? I can see me screwing that up for sure. Lol. Thanks again jerry. Learning so much off this site. Keep it up!!

 

[jerryjerry05]

1 gal and the additive.4oz.oil.
HUGE debate Champion or NGK
UL-18V or the BUHW
UL-18V is what I used.
Jiggz that posts here swears by NGK

​The L78 or the L76
Use neither.
​The 78 is hotter than the 76.
​But a hotter plug isn't needed.

 

[DunbarLtd]

I looked up the heat rannge on those champions. The UL-18V runs COLDER than the L76V. But the Ul18V's have an "auxillary" gap. I read a little about these and they seem to aim to help with fouling???

Anyways ive ran both on long runs at dle and wot and ill be darned if i notice a difference. The L76V would still load up while idling just as much as the UL18V's but i havent done a good test to really see.

Let me ask you this. Which I forget to do everytime im out there. But if i run wot for couple minutes and shut it down immediately and check the plugs?

Should they still be oily? I have carbs turned out to exactly 1 turn on all 3 carbs. If they are oily then what??? Piston rings shot???


I am betting on my rings are leaking oil and i really need to do a compression test.

I just dont see how even with the slightly hotter L76V plugs i cant even get past the no wake zone and already theyve loaded up and it sputters when i throttle up. Ive stopped immediately and cleaned the plugs and right away did a hole shot and it shot out of the hole like a cannon.

I know itll be a bandaid but if i wanted to run a sligjtly hotter plug, would this at all help avoid the loading up at idle?

I have a gut feeling my pistons and rings are done....i just dont see any other reason the plugs should be that loaded up after idling for 5 minutes.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Oil and carbon is normal on the plugs.
​You are burning oil/gas mix.
​The 1 turn out is what the factory suggested as the optimal setting on the 88/85
That's what I had mine set at.
​BUT!! some won't/ don't run good at that setting.
​One motor I worked on the screws needed to be set at 3 full turns out????
​It wouldn't start at 1 turn.

If your starting easily then I'd bet the compression is pretty close.
Some of these motors won't turn over good if the compression is off.

​Dirty plugs: you might need to do a de-carb and remove the carbon???
​Use Mercury's power tune or OMC's engine tuner, both are the same product.
. Yam makes the same but I don't know the name??
​You might need to adjust the air screws?

​The UL-18V is a perma gap plug.Will last YEARS and YEARS!!! I had a set that was probably 10 years old, still working good when I changed them.
​They clean up with a shot of carb cleaner and a rag or wipe on your pants.

 

[Nordin]

Dunbart after idling for a couple of minutes it is normal that the engine will "hesitate" for some seconds when making a hole shot.
As jerryjerry says it is a two stroker and they runing fuel/oil mixture and a two stroker runs better at higher RPMs then idle cause it is not burning all fuel/oil mixture.

I do not think you have bad rings because the plugs foul when idling, but check the compression it will not hurt and you will better know the condition of your engine.

If you check the plugs after runing at WOT or higher RPMs they should not be wet or oily.
They should be light brown/grey.

Watch out you fingers if you pull them immedately after a WOT run.

THEY ARE HOT.

 

[jerryjerry05]

I usually agree with Nordin on about everything, but:
Nordin posted: (If you check the plugs after running at WOT or higher RPMs they should not be wet or oily.
They should be light brown/grey.)
​I don't agree with this. The UL-18V I've ran them since 1988 and have never seen them any other color than black and oily.
My opinion is that a 2 stroke burning plugs tan is running too lean.
​Good thing we can post opinions.

Compression: a 3 cyl. doesn't want to start when the comp. is off more than 5-10 #

​If my motors didn't start within 10-15 seconds even after setting for months, I'd do a comp/ spark test and see what was wrong???

​I said II got about 10 years on a set of plugs, all I ever did was just wipe them off and put them back in.
​I did do a de-carb about every 2 years.
​I also cleaned the screens in the recirc system.

 

[Nordin]

Jerryjerry you are a pro and I am just a leisure mechanice and I do not have soo much experience about the surface gap plugs (have it at a couple of Force and Chrysler that I do not run soo often).
Have it in my Merc 800 1972 that I use often and it have never give me trouble soo I apologize if I am wrong.
I think you have more experience then me.

But my experience with regular bent electrode plugs is that they woul be light brown/grey after runing at WOT.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The electrode plugs should burn with a lighter color.
They seem to run hotter than the surface gap.

 

[DunbarLtd]

What TYPE AND SIZE battery should i be running? Right now it has a 1000 cranking amp...380CCA???(have to go look but i think thats the cca) and its group 27dp.

So its a dual purpose. Theres are a plethora of threads all over the web about what to use.

But for this motor whats the best approach?

My current draw is currently the starter of course, trim/tilt motor, and 3 gauges. Speedo, fuel and water pressure. Then bilge pump i think 1amp???(hardly ever used but checked before every trip),

Then single nav light up front and accessory light (forgot the name) ...the one in the back that sticks up a couple feet.

Also I use a 12v spot light when night fishing but never yse it when motor is off. And tvats about it. No FF or radio, etc.

So guy at local boat shop said he runs starter batterries only.

Whats your take on this and based on my usage what can i get away with for best results????

Starter , dual purpose, deep cycle?

The dual purpose in there now seems fine but its group 27 and 70lbs!

Id like to shed some weight and drop down to a group 24 if i can get away with it???

What do you have success with. I undestand its all about your setup and everyone's is different. Just curious what you think?

Thanks again for all your input.