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1985 Force 125 Fuel and Winterizing

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  • 1985 Force 125 Fuel and Winterizing

    I just bought this 1985 Bayliner with a Force 125 outboard. I want to be sure about the type of gas to use. Should the fuel be non-ethanol high octane with a 50:1 mix?

    Also, When I winterize I know to fog the engine, but is it necessary to put in anti-freeze and how is that done?

  • #2
    High octane is the best and you're also correct on the mix. Store the boat with the foot down, this drains the foot. I disconnect the fuel line and run her tell she dies. I'll give each carb a shot of fogging oil, I also pull the spark plugs and give each cylinder a shot of fogging oil, reinstall the spark plugs. Turn over the engine by hand (clockwise) and if any water is in the pump this will remove it. Drain the gear lube from the outdrive as if it has any water in it will freeze. Refill with fresh gear lube. Use a gas stabilizer on your fuel mix. I try and have an empty tank, mine is plastic. I've been told that if its a metal tank, it is best to have it full. Don't forget to remove the battery from the boat. If I have missed anything others with more knowledge then I will also reply to you. Enjoy your new boat!
    Last edited by kbh121956; September 15th, 2017, 01:51 AM.

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    • #3
      Doesn't need to be high octane or the Ethanol free fuel.
      Any tank needs to be kept full or condensation can form.
      ​Use Stabil fuel stabilizer.

      Running the carbs empty won't get all the fuel out.
      ​It still leaves a small amount in the bowl.
      Your 125 is open and you can get to the bowl screws.
      You can open them a bit and drain the fuel.
      But first spray the bowl seal with WD and let it set for a day.
      The gasket, usually cork dries and can crack when opened after so long.

      ​DO!!! drain the oil. Check for water.

      Myself: I fill the tank and keep the drive down and change the oil.
      ​I have a fuel water separating filter.
      I check it for water and then make sure it's full.

      The other things are good to do but not really necessary.

      IF??? the motors gonna set for extended time?? then do the stabilizers.


      Buy American made Cars and Trucks!!!Towing insurance for a boat,a GREAT thing.
      ​Tools to make my life easier: Battery tester, die grinder, temp.gun, compression tester, DVA meter.

      In Scenic , Beautiful San Sebastian by the sea Florida

      88 Bayliner 21CC 2001 Mercury 225 HP EFI

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      • #4
        Running the carb's empty (although not totally) will do more harm instead of just treating the fuel remaining in the tank and then running the engine until treated fuel is in the carbs. Leaving the carbs dry induces scaling and the small amount of fuel left in the bowl tends to gel. Of course, that's just my personal experience.

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        • #5
          Sign up today
          i agree, not necessary to drain the carbs - i just put stabil in on my last boating trip - drained and filled lower unit or at least checked for water. Spray some fogging oil in all 4 cylinders and rotate the flywheel by hand. Put all 4 spark plugs back in. Store with engine vertical. We did it that way for 2 different Force engines for many years.
          2003 Malibu Sunsetter LXI, Acme 525, Radar P6 ski

          (I still like to help with Force outboards !)

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