1988 force 125 timing and or firing problems.

[Searay Monster]

Hey guys (and gals) my buddy just acquired a 1988 bayliner trophy bass with the force 125. He asked me to help him get it back to where it should be as far as running right. So first off wasn't getting any fuel and had been patched at the fuel pump/ filter block someone used a bunch or red rtv sealant to sandwhich between the two plastic parts of the pump/filter block. Replaced the gaskets and realized the motor had sucked up sealant all the way in the bowls of the carbs... So after cleaning everything out I finally got the motor to run and idle pretty smooth out of the water. I thought all was good. Then noticed when checking the plugs that the 2 bottom cylinders looked dry and shiny so not firing..also noticed the linkage between the timing throttle rod and the part under the flywheel where u set the timing was missing one of the plastic ends and had been tied up with a piece of wire?? My question is can I buy that plastic black end piece that screws on that adjustment rod to adjust the timing. My other question is does anyone think I'm not firing two cylinders because the timing isn't set right? I figured it would still run on four just kinda like crap..? We did take it on the water and it would rev up just didn't have as much throttle as it should. And it would eventually bog out and die ...Any help or ideas or questions are appreciated !!

 

[Nordin]

You can buy the plastic part for the timing rod. They are still available.

There should be spark at all plugs even if the adjustment part is broken or replaced by a wire.
The plastic part is just for timing adjustments.
Check for spark at all four, if no spark check all thin wires at terminal block.
They break under the shrink tube making bad contact to the lug.'

The engine has two CD modules one controls the #1 and 2 cylinder.
The other #3 and 4. If still no spark after checking the wires then swap the CD modules and check if the spark issue follows.

 

[jerryjerry05]

outboardignitiondotcom has test procedures for that motor.
Compression test?

Which end is broken on the timing rod?
Both ends have their own part#s.
[h=2]END, CONTROL ROD (TO TRIGGER)[/h] F9036

[h=2]END, CONTROL ROD (TO TOWERSHAFT)[/h] F499035

 

[Searay Monster]

Ok thanks I will check the CD modules to see if I swap it if it follows the spark. Also the plastic piece is missing on the side that connects to the rod going down to the throttle. I tried to use another similar block to rig up the linkage but it doesn't seem to be engaging after about half of wot.. I will post my results soon as I can hopefully today. Thanks alot!

 

[Searay Monster]

so stopped by my buddys house just to shoot the shi* for a few and decided to look at the plugs while we were having a few beers..1 and 2 were as i suspected had a little bit of black on them where they had obviously been firing. pulled 3rd one out and as expected it looked brand new nothing at all on it. pulled bottom plug out and it pissed water out of the cylinder!!!!! At least a couple tablespoons!!! so my question now is if this dude ran it hot could it blow head gasket just around 3 and 4? or is there something near the intake that could be cracked letting water slip by? That is if the intake is water cooled like on a car>>> learning as i go. Im for sure doing a compression test next time i go back but i kinda have a feeling i know what those numbers are gonna be..also i did make for certain that the carbs are clean and fuel is making it all the way to where it sprays in the chamber. even if i do have a firing issue still i know its not gonna run off water? any other checks i could do other than compression to determine blowed gasket or a crack in head or block?? thanks guys

 

[jerryjerry05]

Water and low compression on 2 adjacent cyl could be a bad gasket???
​WD40 the cy. with water.

No cooling passages on the front of the motor.
​The front is cooled by the venture affect.(hope I said that right??)
The air entering the carbs mixes with gas and cools the front of the motor.
​It wouldn't get that hot anyway.
The water passages are mainly around the cylinders and the cover on the head.

IF???? it got hot? figure out why??

 

[Searay Monster]

Awesome thanks jerryjerry I will go back this Friday gonna do a spark test with inline tester,compression test on all the cylinders, I'll wd40 the cylinder and if compression and spark is good I'll try running it again now that I know for sure it's getting fuel in the chambers on both carbs. One question does the top carb feed fuel to cylinder 1 and 2 and the bottom to 3 and 4 or do they all just mix around from both carbs?

 

[Nordin]

Searay ..... topcarb feed cylinder 1 and 2, bottom cylinder 3 and 4.
Yes do a compression test and to be really sure pull the head and check the gasket.
A small damage in the gasket will end up with water in the cylinder.