Tilt/Trim Springs and Brush

BoatingFox

Cadet
Joined
Aug 27, 2017
Messages
6
Hi guys, very new to the boating scene and needed some advice. I picked up an old '77 Sport Fury for a few hundred bucks. The gentleman I bought it from had never used his tilt/trim, as when he received it it did not work. He mentioned he had no need for it as it did what he needed and didn't have to lift it to travel.

Well I do need it and went through countless forums here and anywhere I could find helpful info. As my research narrowed I seemed to have found the problem. The tilt/trim motor was shot(when I took it off the boat it almost looked literally shot). I purchased a compatible motor and reservoir and have moved to the replacing process. Here I was thinking would be the easy part. Quick switch then BAM back in action. Well as the subject states, the spring and brush inside the motor had fallen off the piece they are supposed to push against. No matter what I do, I cannot seem to piece it back together as the springs push the brush out and block it from sliding in correctly and I cannot remove the top as it seems almost connected to the magnets via wires that are pretty tough. I have sent an email to the people I have purchased the motor from but figured I would come here and ask some of you as well. Learned a lot from these threads and know there's some knowledgeable folks here.

Any tips or info would be wonderful.
I have linked the motor in question below:
https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/tilt-trim-motor-chrysler-force-evinrude-johnson-omc.html
 

G_Hipster

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 24, 2016
Messages
131
I'm having a hard time picturing what your saying. I pulled mine apart cleaned up the brushes and commutator(think that's what it's called) and reassembled with relative ease. I did put the armature back into the case with the top cover off where I could hold the brushes back.
 

BoatingFox

Cadet
Joined
Aug 27, 2017
Messages
6
My issue stems from not fully being able to take the top cover off. Not without severing some wires anyway.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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May 7, 2008
Messages
17,923
Post pics of your parts. Shutterfly can help load pics.
After 3/5 posts here you can add pics. through this site.
The top shouldn't be that hard to reassemble.
​I use very thin (1/4") pieces of electric tape.
I wrap the spring holder and the brush and spring in place with the tape.
Then after it's put back in place I pull the tape out and the brushes ride on the end of the armature.
 

BoatingFox

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Aug 27, 2017
Messages
6
Thank you for the tape idea, it worked. Was trying string but wasn't as effective. Of course once I solve one issue another comes up. It seems I have a small crack in my valve body where one of the lines screws in.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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May 7, 2008
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That new problem, crack in the valve body?? usually it means the whole thing is screwed.

​Post a pic.
 

BoatingFox

Cadet
Joined
Aug 27, 2017
Messages
6
Thanks for the help jerryjerry. I've replaced both the valve body and motor at this stage and seems to be in working order. Only problem is, it works going up but not down. I believe I may have a relay problem but to hell if I know what I'd be looking for and where.

Of course with my luck, Attempted to take her out for a quick drive during this amazing weather CNY has had, and one of the connections on the ignition switch has broke off. One day I will be able to wake up and take it out for the day with no worries. Maybe.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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May 7, 2008
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Year????
Before 87 there were no relays.

No relays? bad switch? or a broken wire?

​The relays are a small square black box about 1 1/4 in X 1 1/4 in X 1 1/4 in. it should have 5 studs for connections.
​They are usually near the front of the carbs on the port side..
 

BoatingFox

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Aug 27, 2017
Messages
6
1977 Sport Fury, not sure about the year of the outboard though. Seems to be an original Chrysler 85hp, but if you state no relays before that time I would imagine it doesn't have one. I push the down button and can hear the motor run but does not move the motor at all. If I push it up it moves it slightly but does not go the full amount. Bled the lines several times. I happen to think this may be a wiring issue as well. I'd hate to have to re-wire the entire boat but I may need to at this stage. I'd have better knowledge of winning the lottery than re-wiring if it came down to it.

Have an ignition switch question but not sure if I should create a new thread for that. I'll ask here either way, and move it if need be.

I am buying a new ignition switch to replace the current one. The part I am looking at is f5h078, and it looks exactly like the part i need, but wasn't sure if this would operate correctly. My current one has 6 connections and is push to choke. I believe this is as well.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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May 7, 2008
Messages
17,923
On the motor usually in the front of the carbs is an ID plate.
It should have the model and serial#.

If your operating the switch and the motor hums and moves the motor a tiny bit??
That means the relief valves probably needs to be rebuilt.
The system is a 5 part setup.
#1 is the electric motor
#2 is the hyd. pump
​#3 is the relief valves under the pump.
#4 is the tilt cylinder
​#5 is the trim cylinder

​Moving just a bit?? could be the #4 and #5 seals or the #3 needs rebuilt??

​When you replaced the electric motor, did you check the armature shaft length?
​Sometimes they are a tiny bit shorter and don't fit right.
​Post pics of your unit, the parts on the motor and under the motor, lift the drive and take pics.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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Ignition switch. Usually a 6 pole should work.
But to be sure?? Engine ID is a MUST!!
 

BoatingFox

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Joined
Aug 27, 2017
Messages
6
I'll grab some pics when I head to the marina next. I do know that when I bought the new motor, it came with the reservoir as well. I also purchased a new valve body that fit the unit. Was hoping to get it corrected without having to take the engine off the boat.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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May 7, 2008
Messages
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The Chrysler 85 was made from 77-84
​The 77 used a distributor and they changed to Prestolite CDI system in the later years.
​The T@T systems were about the same but the lines might be bent a little different.
From 77-84 there were LOTS of changes so a model# would help a lot.
 
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