Force 50hp 1 carb approx 1992 - won't idle

Tuni

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It's gonna take a few days to get a chance to work on it again...I have a 'honey-do' list to get the yard and patio into weekend mode for guests. I'll need to do the paper test again and then post (I threw paper away). The only check on the fuel pump I did was to remove fuel line at the carb and turn the engine over....gas came out so I gave it a thumbs up that it was good. Do I use Loctite on all the screws and bolts when putting the reeds back in? I'll be back! Thanks for hanging in there with me.
 

Jiggz

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If you did not dismount the reed petals or covers themselves no need to use loctite. Although it wouldn't hurt to use the blue loctite on the v-block mounting bolts but not necessary.
 

Tuni

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I am off the hook this weekend for 'honey do's'. I put everything back together. Attached is a picture of cylinder 1 & 2 paper test. Obviously there is a difference. I checked the plugs and get spark on both and swapped and still got spark (should - both are new). I'll wait for a response but I am going to start reading about fuel pump diaphragm.
 

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jerryjerry05

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The bottom cyl.usually runs the fuel pump.
Possible it's leaking into the cyl. and flooding it out.
 

Tuni

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OK sounds like I have to take the pump off and look at it.....but what am I looking for?
 

jerryjerry05

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The pump has a rubber sheet or diaphragm inside it.
If it's ripped or has a hole then replace.
​The 92 50 came with 2 different pumps.
The newer is square, the older is more like a figure 8.
​Look for anything out of the ordinary.
 

Tuni

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IMG_2098.JPG IMG_2097.JPG Well I made it from the motor to the workbench. The pump (?) looks like it came off of cylinder #1 (top). There was another plate thingy where a small hose from the pump went to and it was attached to cylinder #2. Before I start exploring did I take the right one off? Attached two pictures.
 

Jiggz

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That sure looks like a fuel pump (pic with word "Filter"). However, from the pic when it was still attached looks like it came off the bottom cylinder and not the top as indicated by the shift cable and the fuel hose. Anyways, open and inspect it and post results.
 

Tuni

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Good news today...I see cracks (puncture) in the diaphragm. Hopefully good news is forth coming.
Diaphragm.JPG
 

Tuni

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I was looking closer to the valve things and they look like there might be cracks in them too. I'm talking about the one under the screws and the one in the small circle (of the figure 8). I'd rather not touch them at this time. I'm thinking it is easy to remove during the winter, but for now I just want to get this motor running at idle. I have all winter to fine tune.
 

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Jiggz

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You can also order the check valves if you think you need to replace them.
 

jerryjerry05

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That type pump, the check valve almost never go bad.

​We used to go 30-40 miles offshore and did a lot of preventive maint. so we didn't have any problems.
​Was doing some PM and was replacing the diaphragms.
​Opened the pump and one of the check valves fell out in pieces???
​It still worked even broken.

I have a BUNCH of old pumps and parts.
​You pay shipping, I'll send you one.
 

Tuni

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It's celebration time!!! I took a drive and picked up a diaphragm and gasket. The parts guy said the same thing you said about the valves, so I installed gasket and diaphragm and fired it up, throttled down to idle, additional smoke went away, and I was able to put the screwdriver to the idle screw without the motor jumping around like it had only 1 cylinder. What a nice day this is for me. I want to thank you Jerry and Jiggz for all your help. I actually learned something about troubleshooting that makes sense. Now time to open another help thread.
 

jerryjerry05

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IDLE SCREW????
The screw on the carb isn't an idle screw.
It's for adjusting the fuel/air mix at idle.
​It can smooth out the idle but raising it should be done with the towershaft idle screw.
 
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