1980 Chrysler 55hp Shift linkage issues.

Degrath

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I have a 1980 55hp Chrysler outboard 559H0N with a 1 piece lower unit. I am having issues getting the shift linkage adjusted so that it will go into forward and reverse. When I started it would go into reverse only. The shift rod goes into an aluminum block with a pin (no adjustment there) at the lower unit and the upper end of the shift rod has a nut and plastic fork at the powerhead. This was pulled completely tight so I 1/2 split the adjustment and started from there.

At this point it would still go into reverse and partially engage into forward( a hard turn on the prop and it would slip out). I adjusted another full turn up and I got forward gear to lock in but no reverse. Backed down 1/2 turn and same thing, forward but no reverse.

I moved up to the shift linkage and no matter what I adjust I can either get forward or reverse, never both. I can live with forward only so I adjusted it out to a good solid lock into forward, dropped it into a water tub and bam nothing. I can hear forward trying to engage and nothing in reverse. No matter how far into forward I adjust the linkage it will not lock into gear while running in a tub.

On ears I can get both forward and reverse.

The lower unit was just apart and cleaned, no metal no damage. All the gears are clean and look brand new. am I missing something? could a bent shift rod be the cause? I am going to drop the lower unit tomorrow to troubleshoot further.

Anyone have any advise or insight into getting this thing dialed in?

EDIT
Anyone in the Columbus Ohio area able to help??
 
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jerryjerry05

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From what I see in the parts break down there are 4 places to adjust the linkage.
​The shift rod that goes down into the lower and connects to the yoke, it can be unscrewed a couple of turns if absolutely needed.
​Too many turns and you'll need to take the lower unit apart and reconnect it.

​Try to get the factory manual.
 

Degrath

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Yes thanks for the reply, I have tried that as well for the adjustment. Nothing I adjust will lock it into gear while in the water. I can lock into gear on muffs but in water it will jump out of gear. When in gear with the engine off I can turn the prop which will turn the flywheel until its build compression then you can see the shift linage at the top of the gear box lift out of place and the prop slips. I had rain all yesterday so I was unable to remove the lower unit but I believe the problem lies with it.
 

Degrath

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Any thing I should look for specifically to make that determination? looks pretty good when I had it out. Or should I just buy one and call it a day?
 

Nordin

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You shall look at the edges at the gears and the clutch dog.
If they are rounded and not sharp (90 dgr, perpendicular) then it will be the issue.

If you disassemble, take some pics of the gears and dog and post.
 

Degrath

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Stick a fork in it.... Clutch and both gears are really rounded off. I found a brand new clutch on ebay for $25 or new from boats.net for $94 but after several hours looking for the gears I can't find any that look any better than mine. I found 2 lower units, 1 for $300 "as is" and 1 for $450 that has been pressure tested for the seals but only hand tested for the gears. So I am at the point now where I have to decide if it is worth throwing any more cash at it or find a new motor.

It is a bit small for my 16ft caravelle and last test on the water I could only get about 12mph. I was tweaking and adjusting the top 1/2 to see why I wasn't getting the power when the lower unit failed.

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Nordin

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Yes that is your issue about the gear slipping out.

One option is to have the edges machined or you try it your self with a Dremmle, well the gears and clutch is heat treated at the surface but there are a couple of threads about this that they have done it with a Dremmle.

If the reverse gear is better you can switch the forward with the reverse and also turn the clutch 180 drg if that side is better.

If you search at websites with parts list such as Crowley etc maybe gears for the smaller/Chryslers (45Hp,70Hp and up) are the same as yours.
 
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jerryjerry05

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Look for a local machine shop and see if they might fix something like that??

Depending on the boat size(pics) it should be closer to 25mph.
 

Degrath

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Look for a local machine shop and see if they might fix something like that??

Depending on the boat size(pics) it should be closer to 25mph.

1974 16ft Caravelle Boats model unknown possibly Stinger? 95HP max on the coast guard label
20170510-124732.jpg

EDIT:
I did find a leak at the Cylinder Exhaust Gasket F522279 could this affect the motor performance? It leaks a little bit of oily water, not a lot just enough to have to wipe it off after it is run. Gasket is no longer made
 
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Degrath

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Yes that is your issue about the gear slipping out.

One option is to have the edges machined or you try it your self with a Dremmle, well the gears and clutch is heat treated at the surface but there are a couple of threads about this that they have done it with a Dremmle.

If the reverse gear is better you can switch the forward with the reverse and also turn the clutch 180 drg if that side is better.

If you search at websites with parts list such as Crowley etc maybe gears for the smaller/Chryslers (45Hp,70Hp and up) are the same as yours.


The reverse gear is different than the forward gear from what I can tell and this 1 piece lower unit is different than all the other Chryslers of the time. I would say it was a limited edition only because it was one of the few that came with the Magnapower II ignition between 1978-1983ish which was warranty upgraded to a Prestolite ignition. I call it the Chrysler FU model because every time I look for parts I can find everything but what mine calls for. The gears match only 11 other models between 1978-1989 and the ones I have found so far on ebay are in the same shape as mine if not worse.
 

Nordin

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Okey, just a "long shot".
Yes I know that about the MAG II etc. They was intruduced in 1974 as 60Hp BUT then it had a smaller 2 piece gear case similer to the 45Hp and eariler 55Hp.
That is why i suggest to swap forward and reverse gear. On those it is possible.
Then they were both in 55Hp and 65Hp during 1977-1979 I think.

I have one of those 60Hp and one 65Hp with that 1 piece LU as yours, both have the MAG II ignition.
I have also had one 60Hp which was upgraded with the Prestolite system but that one I have sold.

I would suggest you to call Franz Marine and check if he has the gears maybe, but he is not cheap but he has almost everything.
 

Degrath

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I will give Franz Marine a try. I am going to try to grind these gears enough to maybe finish out the season here and then just collect all my chips over the winter and start looking for a newer outboard in the spring. I know of several outboard guys in my area who may even want to buy this piece when I am done with it. Still lots of good parts on it.
 

jerryjerry05

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The gears don't look all that bad(they could be fixed) I'd try grinding the dog and see if that makes a difference??

Then figure out why they went bad??

Most times the cable/ linkage is out of adjustment.
​Slow shifting can cause that too.
​Shift in a swift motion.
Slow shifting gives it a chance to grind against each other??
 

Degrath

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I am still going to try to grind the gears, but I just looked at another outboard today that I think I want to buy. Its a lot older and not a Chrysler has good compression and good spark just needs some wiring fixed and a prop. 1968 Mercury 650EL thunderbolt 65 hp 4 cylinder 2 stroke. 120 psi on all 4 cylinders all spark on all 4 plugs verified with a spark tester. Engine turns over but we didn't run any gas to it. Guy says he thinks it needs leaded gas and I didn't know so we left it off at that. motor looks like it was well maintained with the exception of a few wires and the price is right... I am still trying to decide.
 
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Nordin

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Two strokers do not need leaded fuel, four strokers does because of to lube the valve seats.

If you are going to buy that 1968 650 Merc., take a look at all wires under the engine cowl.
Merc. use wires with kind of rubber insulation in that time and those have tendency to tear apart.

I have one Merc. 500 1970 and one Merc. 800 1972 and both have this problems with the wires.

But they are wonderful engines. Four cylinders and they really run smooth.
 

jerryjerry05

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Almost 50 years old, make sure price reflects that.

​Parts might be hard to find?
 

Degrath

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I have priced out and found a motor side wiring harness, which will cure the obvious visible problems the motor has, although there are still quite a few unknowns. I think $300 is about as fair a price as I am going to find. Were I to part out the motor on ebay I'm sure I could get some or all of that back if it turns out not to work out.

I called my parts guy here and he specializes in everything outboard from the 40's, 50's, and 60's, had him check his lists for a 68 650EL stuff and he has quite a bit on the shelves. I hit up Boats.net and found nearly all of the electronic components can still be bought. There are still some parts I am sure will be impossible but I think I am going to take the gamble on this one.

It is funny that I found more parts still available for that 68 Merc than there are for my 1980 Chrysler...
 

jerryjerry05

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The Mercury's even though they were more expensive??
Sold something like 3-1 over the Chrysler.
Keep us posted .
Maybe a re-power post in the right forum?
 

Degrath

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Yes definitely more expensive, 400-500 bucks for some of the electrical. I still have not picked it up yet, I got sidetracked by an engine swap in my sisters truck. I will make a new post over in the merc forum with pictures once I get it. Just got my vice and bench set up and I will start grinding the Chrysler gears maybe this weekend
 
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