1983 Chrysler 45hp Shift Rod won't screw back in

[CApTaInGoOfy]

So I removed the lower because I noticed at the ramp that I had no water flow from the tell tale or the back area. Ordered a new water pump kit FK 1073 as my water pump body was pitted and the white plastic in the body around the drive shaft was chipped up. The impeller was chewed up on the top like it was binding on the body. So removed the lower and removed the driveshaft from the lower. Unscrewed the shift rod completely out of the lower but now I can't seem to get the darn thing to screw back in. I can get it into the lower but for the life of me I can't get it to thread into wherever it's supposed to thread into.

My question is does anyone have any tips/tricks on getting this to thread onto whatever it's supposed to thread onto. Or do I need to separate the lower unit to be able to thread this shift rod into whatever it threads into.

 

[Nordin]

Have you unscrewed the rod at the lower unit (the rod that connects to the fork pivo which holds the york?

IF thats the fact you have to disassemble the LU with the gears, clutch and bearingcage.
To change impeller and housing you do not need to remove the lower shift rod.

When you got the rod back in to the pivo you have to screw it down all the way it goes, otherwise you got problem with the shifting and to adjust it.

 

[interalian]

If it's anything like the one I was just messing with, removing the plate that's under the water pump lets you look down into the gearcase and see how to engage and thread the rod in. There's a swivel that's probably tipped. Give it a try first - beats tearing the GC down completely.

 

[CApTaInGoOfy]

Just split the lower unit...smh now screwed the shift rod back into the fork but my god trying to grab onto the yolk...had to step away before I threw the dam thing! While tapping the bearing cage off I guess I went a little to happy with my mallet as the top bolt area broke off... I'm striking out here!

 

[CApTaInGoOfy]

No Title

The top area broke off when I was tapping it off....smh. You think JB Weld would do it?

 

[Nordin]

NO JB Weld or other chemicaImetal would not work sufficiant. To much force at the screw and it will brake of again.

It can be weld with a TIG weld, BUT the one who will do it has to be really skilled in welding.
The "ear" has to be at right angel (perpendicular) and the surface that attaches to the housing has to line up.
Maybe it has to be turned in a lathe to clean up the surface.

The bearingcage is really fragile and when disassemble it from the housing you have to use a puller and use the two threaded holes in the cage.
Never use a screwdriver and pry under the "ears" or rotate the cage and tapping the ears with a mallet.

Putting back the york in the fork for the shifting can be a PITA.
I use a vise and angle the housing a bit back then I use a small amount of grease at the grove at propshaft that is for the york.
Put the york in the grove in the shaft.
With the left hand at shiftshaft I fit the fork to enter the propshaft and york with the right hand, IT IS TRICKY but having done it a couple of times you fix it 9 time of ten.

 

[jerryjerry05]

They sell this part.
But if you have trouble finding it?
​Use it just like it is not much pressure there.
​Seal it good .

​One of my regular customers his 225 Johnson.
​The bearing carrier bolt broke off sometime in the last 25+ years.
​Doesn't leak and works.

 

[CApTaInGoOfy]

NO JB Weld or other chemicaImetal would not work sufficiant. To much force at the screw and it will brake of again.

It can be weld with a TIG weld, BUT the one who will do it has to be really skilled in welding.
The "ear" has to be at right angel (perpendicular) and the surface that attaches to the housing has to line up.
Maybe it has to be turned in a lathe to clean up the surface.

The bearingcage is really fragile and when disassemble it from the housing you have to use a puller and use the two threaded holes in the cage.
Never use a screwdriver and pry under the "ears" or rotate the cage and tapping the ears with a mallet.

Putting back the york in the fork for the shifting can be a PITA.
I use a vise and angle the housing a bit back then I use a small amount of grease at the grove at propshaft that is for the york.
Put the york in the grove in the shaft.
With the left hand at shiftshaft I fit the fork to enter the propshaft and york with the right hand, IT IS TRICKY but having done it a couple of times you fix it 9 time of ten.

My bearing cage wasn't threaded in the holes in the cage that is. The lower is threaded but the cage itself the bolts just slid right thru them. Gonna tackle the fork and yolk today after I figure out a way to pull the driveshaft seal out. Seems as if it's glued in.

 

[CApTaInGoOfy]

They sell this part.
But if you have trouble finding it?
​Use it just like it is not much pressure there.
​Seal it good .

​One of my regular customers his 225 Johnson.
​The bearing carrier bolt broke off sometime in the last 25+ years.
​Doesn't leak and works.

Thanks for the info. It did seem like a tight fit when trying to get it out as the big o ring was pretty tight. Wasn't sure if it'd be ok didn't want to fill up the lower unit as obviously that area is submerged 100% when in the water.

 

[Nordin]

I mean the holes in the cage the, small ones. Maybe you have to thread it, sometimes they are already.

You can pull the seal by using a metal screw. Drill a small hole in the seal metal part.
Screw the metal screw in and use pliers to pry it out.

 

[CApTaInGoOfy]

I mean the holes in the cage the, small ones. Maybe you have to thread it, sometimes they are already.

You can pull the seal by using a metal screw. Drill a small hole in the seal metal part.
Screw the metal screw in and use pliers to pry it out.

Tried the screw method but the screw kept pulling out. I ended up using a small flat head and a hammer to collapse one side of the seal and it popped right out with some encouragement!

 

[Nordin]

Yes that is a useful method also.
Just be careful not damage the seat in the casting for the seal.