1989 FORCE 125 Hose under carbs

N

Nordin

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If it starts in gear with the neutral switch by passed and not in neutral BUT the starter turns over then the idle sis set to low.
The idle screw is the on at tower shaft that rest agains the block, not the screw on the carbs. That are the air/fuel mixture screws.

Try to turn the idle screw about 1/4 of a turn in. You can look at the throttle cam if it makes the butterflies to open just a bit.
 
N

NEKFORCE

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Nordin said:
If it starts in gear with the neutral switch by passed and not in neutral BUT the starter turns over then the idle sis set to low.
The idle screw is the on at tower shaft that rest agains the block, not the screw on the carbs. That are the air/fuel mixture screws.

Try to turn the idle screw about 1/4 of a turn in. You can look at the throttle cam if it makes the butterflies to open just a bit.
Click to expand...

Ah ,ok ill give it a try, I know the exact screw you are talking about and its location., when shut off in N, I beleive i noticed the butterflies are fully closed.
thanks
 
J

Jiggz

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If the butterflies are fully closed, absolutely you will need to adjust the idle screw to get it started. Give it a full turn at a time until it starts in neutral and then set the idle speed, either screwing it in or out, to about 1000-1200 rpm in neutral on muffs. Make sure cooling water is connected.
 
N

NEKFORCE

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Jiggz said:
If the butterflies are fully closed, absolutely you will need to adjust the idle screw to get it started. Give it a full turn at a time until it starts in neutral and then set the idle speed, either screwing it in or out, to about 1000-1200 rpm in neutral on muffs. Make sure cooling water is connected.
Click to expand...

I know this is dumb, but with the cooling water connected with muffs, will it still fully circulate in netural, or does the prop need to spin to circulate the water up into the motor?
 
GA_Boater

GA_Boater

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The prop may not be spinning in neutral, the impeller driven by the drive shaft is pumping water.
 
N

NEKFORCE

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Oh ok,thank you. I am gonna try and adjust my idle tonight and double check my safety switch
 
N

NEKFORCE

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GA_Boater said:
The prop may not be spinning in neutral, the impeller driven by the drive shaft is pumping water.
Click to expand...

Well i did adjust the idle screw, but i needed to pretty much screw it all the way in. But it idles nice. I did also need to turn the air screws on the carbs out just a bit more than I had.
I origionally had done as the book says and turned the air screws all the way in and then back out one full turn. but... i needed to turn an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn to make it start and idle better.
 
jerryjerry05

jerryjerry05

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If the idle screw needs to be turned all the way in??
Then the linkage needs to be re-set.
​One of the top posts is a thread called a link and sync
​Air screws, Is that another 1/4-1/2 out or in?.
 
N

NEKFORCE

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jerryjerry05 said:
If the idle screw needs to be turned all the way in??
Then the linkage needs to be re-set.
​One of the top posts is a thread called a link and sync
​Air screws, Is that another 1/4-1/2 out or in?.
Click to expand...

As the Force manual states, to set the screws, seat them all the way in and then one full turn out. I did that but needed to do an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn to improve idle.
 
jerryjerry05

jerryjerry05

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Now get a can of starting fluid.
Start motor spray SF all around the bases of the carbs the area under the linkage and the whole stbd. side of the motor.
If the SF makes any change in the way it runs??
Then it's sucking air and the leak needs to be fixed.

Worked on a 86/85hp.
​The carbs were supposed to be set at 1 turn out(factory).
​These 3 needed to be set at 3 turns out no matter what I did.
It's still running at that setting 3 years later????
 
N

NEKFORCE

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jerryjerry05 said:
Now get a can of starting fluid.
Start motor spray SF all around the bases of the carbs the area under the linkage and the whole stbd. side of the motor.
If the SF makes any change in the way it runs??
Then it's sucking air and the leak needs to be fixed.

Worked on a 86/85hp.
​The carbs were supposed to be set at 1 turn out(factory).
​These 3 needed to be set at 3 turns out no matter what I did.
It's still running at that setting 3 years later????
Click to expand...

yeah, was planning to do just that once i get my impeller parts and all put back togather.
 
N

NEKFORCE

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Well, I ordered the impeller, took for ever to ship, then it was the wrong one. Slightly too big. wish i knew what it went to and i would sell it. Any way I took mine apart, and it was all in pieces, it must not have been pumping at all.
 
N

NEKFORCE

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Finally, received the correct impeller and correct gasket and wear plate, I dident relize they fit in the housing so tightly...wow, anyway that's why the manual says use a lil grease (I never changed an impeller before). so put it all back together and the boat ran fine on muffs and did not overheat... its longest i have ever run this motor. not a steady stream of water out of the exhaust snout by any means... more of a spray / splashing type ... but it must be cooling properly as i got no overheat buzzer... I will probably take the first ride with this boat this week.
Thanks all for your help and suggestions.
 
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