Force 1990, 90hp. Need wiring help, Pics included

[Syntheziz]

We are not familiar with boat motors however my father wanted to purchase a motor. We bought one off a guy on craigslist who repairs and sells them. When we arrived he showed us that it ran and that it had good compression. He managed to get it running without needing a harness or ignition switch. He gave us a wiring harness in case our current boat motor has a different one. Before we started wiring this motor on our boat we gotten a new battery and a Sierra ignition switch. Once we wired everything the motor failed to make any noise or movement when attempting to run it via the ignition switch. We also noticed that the harness he gave us is the same as one we already have however once we put our original wiring harness it also failed to start the motor. My father gives contact to the boat in some area and it causes the start motor to run. So we are guessing the wiring on are part is wrong? Or it possible the motor is faulty when it comes to running on wires? We are certain the wiring harness does not have a short since we tested two of them. Below you will find links to some pictures I took. It failed to upload them directly on the forum since it said they exceeded the max file size.


The link below shows the wiring on the motor. We did not wire tachometer or the overheat since we just want to see if we can even get it running. Also the guy told us we don't need those two for it to start. Also you can't see it in picture but the last label after stop 2 says ground.

http://i.imgur.com/sdsTvIp.jpg


The link below shows the ignition switch. The second link right next to it shows the ignition switch diagram. I'm not sure if we need anything on the thing labeled solenoid. Also we put nothing for the middle of the switch since our motor does not currently have a choke

http://i.imgur.com/uj9xzmS.jpg http://i.imgur.com/lqvIwXB.png


This link below shows the wires left over after wiring the ignition switch. Green is choke I believe, would put if we had one. The orange is overheat and the purple is tachometer. We also got that blueish looking one left over I believe that is stop2, is that needed? If so where to put it?

http://i.imgur.com/NBbBFKV.jpg

All help is appreciated, we don't have any service around our area that is not full. The person we got it from lives pretty far

 

[kbh121956]

Terminal strip at engine Wire color Keyswitch Function

Yellow (S) terminal Start
Green (C) terminal Choke
Red (B) terminal Power
White (M) terminal (one of them) Stop You should have two terminals marked M
Blue (jumper to black ground) Blue (M) terminal (the other) Stop
Purple Tachometer
Orange Overheat buzzer
Black Ground

Terminal I at keyswitch is only to use for auxiliaries, to power it when key in ignition position.
There are many others one here that will answer you and are pros. Give it time and they will get to you. Looking at your keys switch, It may be the wrong one.

 

[kbh121956]

Syntheziz, also if you are checking for spark at the plugs, all plugs must be grounded or you take a chance on burning up your electronics. Let the forum know if you get it running, if not the good people on here will try and give you a hand.

 

[Syntheziz]

Update, I moved the yellow cabled from (i) and put it on (s). Removed the black ground that I had on (m) and put the blue cable on it. Not sure what to do with black cable. Making sure that it's in neutral but still no luck running it off the ignition switch

 

[jerryjerry05]

Wrong switch.
F5H078 this is the one you need.

 

[Syntheziz]

Thanks for the reply, I forgot to say in post but it's also a long shaft. Not sue how many 1990 90hps variety's they have however it seems my serial sticker was peeled off. Would I still be fine buying that switch?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Yes.
Long shaft has nothing to do with the ignition.

 

[Syntheziz]

Still waiting on receiving the ignition switch since they had to back order it. Our of curiosity once I receive the switch where would I put the black ground wire? Would I put it together with one of the wires labeled M on the switch? My boat does not have a fuse box

 

[kbh121956]

Syntheziz, Yellow wire to S terminal. green wire to C terminal, red wire to B terminal, white wire to M terminal. (pick one as you will have two "M" terminals) blue wire to the other M terminal. The orange wire is for your over heat buzzer. Purple wire is the tachometer. The black wire you would use as a ground for your fuel gauge, tachometer, cigarette lighter, etc. It does not need to be wired up to your ignition switch. This is how I have my 85hp wired to the key and it starts fine. If wrong others on here will correct me as I'm also learning. The I terminal is used for powering accessories when the ignition is in the on position.

 

[Syntheziz]

Got the new switch today. Wired everything 100% correctly for the ignition switch however it does not start. Made sure it's also in neutral. When I connect the screwdriver between two points of the solenoid it starts however not starting with my ignition

 

[Jiggz]

There is a ckt breaker that connects between the battery and the ignition switch's red purple wire ("B" terminal). Make sure this is not tripped. That ckt breaker is located inside the engine cowling.

 

[kbh121956]

Keep us posted on your results.

 

[Syntheziz]

I hit the circuit reset button a couple of times and tried however still no luck. Anyone have any other suggestions?

 

[kbh121956]

Looking at the wiring terminal block on the engine, I would clean up all the connections. They need to be bright and shiny. If that doesn't work, You will need to check each wire with an OHM meter from the switch to the engine terminal block. This is all that I can think of. Starting to wonder if it's not the starting motor relay. Keep us posted, let the forum know if you get her running.

 

[Jiggz]

You need to check the neutral switch to make sure it is actually, "close" with the motor in neutral. There are two ways to test for this. The first test is using resistance test with a Ohmmeter to see if the neutral switch is actually closing. And the other is with the use of a test light.

If the neutral switch is actually close there should be no resistance between the two wire connections on it. Or with a test light connected to ground, both wire connections should indicate the switch is closed with the test light on when touched with either wire connections with the ignition switch in the start position.

 

[Derrick Fronckowiak]

Jiggz, couldn't he put a jumper wire between the two terminals on the neutral safety switch (thereby bypassing the switch) to see if the switch is good and if the engine will start?

 

[Jiggz]

That is another option using a jumper between the two terminals on the neutral switch. And yes, if the starter engages, it means the neutral switch needs to be adjusted or maybe replaced.

 

[Syntheziz]

To test the neutral switch I can just connect the left wire going to it and the right wire going to it together? Or does the switch have some kind of sensor which would not allow the motor to start without it being detected?

 

[Jiggz]

No Title

That is correct. Using small jumper wires with small alligator clips will do the job. No there is no other sensor except for the micro switch itself. Generally, if it is the cowl engine mounted type, it looks like this. You can post a pic of your neutral switch if it looks differently.

 

[Syntheziz]

Seems not to be neutral safety switch since put direct connection to bypass the switch and no luck. What is a possible way to get this running without a ignition switch?