1993 90hp force won't charge

nathan619

Cadet
Joined
Jul 28, 2013
Messages
26
My start battery will not charge while motor is running.

I've checked the rectifier/regulator and I believe it's good. I ohmed between the red wire and the other 3 and got a reading, then reversed my leads and got no readings and from what I've read, it's good. Besides, I did replace it and it will won't charge the battery.

I disconnected the 2 yellow wires from the stator each one to ground shows no short. Across the yellow wires, I got something like 1 or .1 ohms.

I checked for continuity between the + lead on the battery to the starter and it showed continuity. I checked from the - lead on the battery to the motors ground and it showed continuity.

I don't know how to check any further. Can someone help?

My engines model number is H090412NX, Serial number 0E010171.

Thanks,
Nathan
 

nathan619

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Jul 28, 2013
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Here are the photos.

Thanks,
Nathan
 

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roscoe

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Oct 30, 2002
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Have you put a voltmeter on the battery terminals while engine is running?

How about between the red wire coming out of rectifier and ground while engine is running?
 

Jiggz

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Oct 23, 2009
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The positive proof way to find out if the stator is charging or not is to do the following:
- With motor not running, take battery voltage reading at the battery terminals and write it down.
- Start the motor and using fast idle make sure it is running at least 2000 rpm.
- Next measure battery voltage again at the battery terminal, the reading should be at last 12.75~ 14.5 volts or at least higher than the initial battery voltage reading taken earlier.

Post your results.
 

nathan619

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Jul 28, 2013
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Roscoe and Jiggz. I will check those later today and let you both know what I find.

Thanks.
 

nathan619

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Jul 28, 2013
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I have 12.97VDC across the battery without the engine running.
I have 12.63VDC across the battery with the engine running at least 2000 rpm.
I disconnected the red wire from the rectifier with the engine idling and checked voltage on the red wire from the rectifier and got 3.7VDC.

I double checked all this espectially the 3.7VDC because I thought that was low but maybe that's what it should be, I don't know.

Thanks.
 

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
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Oct 30, 2002
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21,657
OK, verified there is no charge to battery.
Now, need to determine if the stator or the rectifier is bad.
Check these wires coming from the stator.

If you have a RED stator;

check the resistance between the Green/wht wire, and the White/green wire.
It should be between 500-700.


If you have a black stator:

Check red wire to ground, 75-90 ohm
Check blue wire to ground, 3250-3650 ohm
 

nathan619

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Jul 28, 2013
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My stator is black.
I have from it, 2 yellow wires, 1 black, 1 blue, and 1 red.
The red wire is screwed to the power pack panel and I removed it and from the wire to ground, I get 111.9ohms.
The blue wire is screwed to the power pack panel and I removed it and from that wire to ground, I get 3.975K ohms.

Thanks.
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
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Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
Disconnect the two Yellow wires going to the Rectifier/Regulator. Start the motor and rev it up to at least 2000 RPM's while measuring the AC voltage across the two Yellow wires coming from the stator. You should see 14 to 16 volts AC (not DC). If you see the 14 to 16 volts AC, then your Rectifier/Regulator is probably bad.

The Rectifier/Regulator takes the AC voltage from the stator and converts it to DC to keep the battery charged. If you're getting the correct AC voltage input to the Rectifier/Regulator, but not getting the correct DC output from it, then it's probably bad.

The Red, Black and Blue wires are part of the stator windings that supply the AC voltage for the ignition system and are not used in charging the battery. You can measure the resistance of the battery charging winding across the two Yellow wires but it is very low. Something like .5 OHMs.
 
Last edited:

Jiggz

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One up for testing the AC output of the stator as discussed by PNW.
 

nathan619

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Jul 28, 2013
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With the engine at quiet a few RPM's (I don't have a tach), I disconnected the yellow wires from the stator and got 12.3VAC across them. I connected those back and disconnected the red wire from the rectifier and got 12.6 VDC to ground.

Is that good? What now? Thanks.
 

nathan619

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Jul 28, 2013
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I don't know if this matter or not but. In my first post, I posted that I was showing no short between the yellow wires from the stator to ground. After I ran the motor while ago to get the reading in my last post, I checked those yellow wires to ground again. This time I'm getting 3.8 Mohms from the yellows wires to ground on the stator. I just checked again after the motors been setting for 20 mins or so and now it 6.0 Mohms. I assume the stator builds a little resistance when it's running and slowly goes away. Is this normal?
 

pnwboat

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Oct 8, 2007
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When you disconnect the Red wire on the Regulator/Rectifier to measure output voltage, you are removing any electrical load, and you may get inaccurate, mis-leading voltage readings.

Just want to stress the importance of rev'ing the motor up. The charging system does not function very well at idle speed. Any voltage test at or near idle speed is inconclusive since the charging system is not operating.

It appears that the stator winding to charge the battery is working. However, to get a more definitive test, you need to rev the motor up to you best guess to around 2000 RPMs while testing the AC output of the stator. The AC voltage should increase after a few seconds at that speed.

If that checks out, then with everything hooked up as normal, check the DC voltage across the battery. The battery needs to be a known good battery. Again, rev the motor up to your best guess to around 2000-3000 RPMs. The DC voltage should climb from 12.7 to around 13.5 - 14.5 VDC. It may take 10 or 15 seconds for the voltage to climb (depends on the RPMs) but it should slowly climb up. Make sure that the metal case of the Rectifier/Regulator is grounded to the plate that it's mounted on, and that the plate itself is grounded to the engine block. There should be a black wire that runs from the plate to the engine block. You should read continuity from the metal Rectifier/Regulator case to the engine block.

If the voltage doesn't climb, shut the motor off, disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery and check for continuity from the end of the positive battery cable to the barrel plug on the wiring harness that connects to the Red wire at the Recitfier/Regulator. If you do not have continuity, you have a breaker or fuse that has tripped/blown or a broken wire. If continuity checks out, then the Rectifier/Regulator is probably bad.
 

Jiggz

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Oct 23, 2009
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In addition to PNW's comment, the insulation resistance (reading from yellow wire to ground) is normal based from your readings. Yes, when wires get hot or get increased in temp, the insulation resistance does go down but should never be less than 1M Ohm. As it cools down, the insulation resistance will slowly go up.
 
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