Synchronizing 120hp

pita482

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 28, 2010
Messages
92
When doing a link and sync from scratch do you set the idle stop screw to minimum setting (all the way out)? Before setting the tower link rod and throttle cam, I've read the sticky but not sure where to start with the idle screw
 
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pita482

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 28, 2010
Messages
92
Im getting an exhaust burp, belch on cold start up, wasn't sure if my base timing is off? Or if this is normal? Never really noticed it on my 90hp
 

Jiggz

Captain
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,817
First make sure the flywheel zero marking is in line with the top piston. Meaning with #1 piston at TDC, the timing indicator should be at zero with the flywheel marking.

Four things need to be in the following state to synch:
1. Idle stop screw barely touching the block (i.e. backed off)
2. The cam's line should be in line with the eccentric screw slot (adjustment is made with by loosening the eccentric screw)
3. The carbs' throttle should be fully closed (adjustment is made with the tie rod from the timing tower to the carb's arms)
4. Timing indicator should be at zero.(adjustment is with the timing rod on top of the timing tower)

With the above the engine will not start because the throttles are fully closed. Hence, you need to set the idle speed by setting the idle stop screw, i.e. screwing it in until you attain approx 1000 rpm idle speed in neutral. When you set the idle screw, other settings from the above will also change, timing will advance, throttles will open and the cam's line will not be aligned with the eccentric screw slot anymore. This is all normal.

From here you can set the timing using a timing light.
 

pita482

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 28, 2010
Messages
92
Thanks, that's right where I have it, just backed off the block, just wanted to make sure, thx again!
 
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