1972 Chrysler 85 HP questions

Vorden72

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My first post on this site, so bear with me.

A few days ago against judgement of my better half bought vintage Charger 118 runabout with the 85 hp outboard on trailer. Based on what I have read on this site and my initial experience will likely have to become educated on the maintenance and service of the engine. any suggestions on which version of the manual is recommended and source would be appreciated
 

Nordin

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A factory service manual is the best. You may find it at the Chrysler crew web site.
Second is to buy a Chrysler shop manual from Clymers. It covers all Hp.s from 1966 up to 1984 but not so thoroughly, but it is way better the the Seloc.
 

jerryjerry05

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Do a compression and spark test.
​Get a manual and find a good parts diagram(for lookin up those parts)
Check the lower unit for water and metal shavings in the oil.

Then enjoy.

Oh yea, Welcome
 

Vorden72

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Thanks for suggestions. Wiil contact Chrysler Crew for manual info. Did check compression prior to purchase and results 130, 130 and 140 psi. Also checked lower unit and oil ran clear...no emulsion. Yesterday bought spark tester and new cranking battery which are in in my car and will get chance to employ in next few days and let you know results.
 

Tnstratofam

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You may check ebay. I purchased a factory service manual for both my 75hp and an 85hp from there.
 

Vorden72

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Thanks for that suggestion will look at eBay for the factory manual which I may require sooner than anticipated.

Today I got rid of the old gas in the tank and replaced with new batch. I hooked up the new battery and tested for spark which was present and after repeated cranking over 5 to 10 minutes and misfires and sputters eventually got the engine running with a lot of blue smoke and with cooling water from the exhaust which was a pleasant surprise and was congratulating myself. That was short lived as on a subsequent attempt to start I got nothing from the starting motor although by depressing the key I did hear and see the choke operate. So what happened? I looked at he starting motor to see how easy to take off and have it looked at but my efforts quickly showed that it requires more comprehension than I presently have.....so will follow up to obtain a manual.

If after testing it is determined that starting motor needs replacement any advice or thoughts about supply and likely cost greatly valued.
 

Vorden72

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To follow up just looked at eBay and I see a lot of suppliers for a replacement starter at reasonable prices.
 

Nordin

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Before buying a new starter if it does not work.
Disassemble it, clean it out from Carbone dust and also clean the commutator.
A starter normally not need to be replaced. They last for a very long time and only need cleaning and maintaince (lube and maybe new brushers).

These are very similar to an automobile starter. No rocket science.
 

Vorden72

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Have been away sailing for a while but back at boat today and following bypassing ignition switch and starting solenoid still no action from starter and following Nordin suggestion removed it and then readily apparent that brushes and housing and wire attachments were severely compromised but commutator in good shape and based on recommendation of local marina mechanic took starter parts to local auto electric shop where at end of day I picked up refurbished starter at cost of $125 cdn which I think fair for same day service. So early next week will reinstall and see if we get this motor started.

Will let you know how that goes and I would welcome any thoughts on adding additives to fuel to clean out deposits that may have accumulated during inactivity.

Thanks
 

jerryjerry05

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First thing Seafoam isn't any good(my opinion)
To clean the carbs.
Get something like Mercury's, Power Tune or OMC's Engine Tuner.
​This is a good additive to help clean the deposits.

But nothing is as good as a good cleaning with a brush and tip cleaner.
​There are passages in the carb that can only be reached by a complete dismantle.
Yu can try a carb spray.
This depends on what's in the float bowl when yu take it off????
 

Tnstratofam

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I agree the best way to avoid allot of agravation is to totally clean the carbs and the whole fuel system. I fought dirty carbs for nearly a month with all sorts of fuel treatments and additives. In the end pulling the carbs and tearing them down to clean them was all that worked.
 

Vorden72

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Thanks for that suggestion tnstratofam.

Here is update. Put renovated starter back and started motor but did not realize that ignition switch sticky keeping starter gear engaged to flywheel for 15 minutes. So of couse fried starter and back to shop to replace bushing and when that fixed and starter back on....no go... So then determined that starter solenoid also toast so replaced with new. So now cranking and starting ok but see fuel leaking from bottom of fuel pump....so investigate and tighten glass bowl no results and wonder if gasket no longer providing seal. Inspection not reveal flaw. Also see that 3 clear plastic lines to and from pump not tightened with clamps to the fitting. I see fuel circulating in bottom line and wonder if other line(s) activate pump action via pressure differential from crankcase. And if so which one(s)?

During one running session the engine seems to gasp and stopped abruptly and noticed that one of the clear plastic lines from pump without clamps blown from fitting.

I expect that symptoms described will be obvious to some of you so looking forward to your comments and gratefully rreceived.
 

jerryjerry05

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The "gasp" was actually a backfire.
A small one but a backfire.

​The carbs have an air/fuel adjustment screw.
​Try setting these at 1 and 1/4 turn out from lightly seated.
​They can be fine tuned later.

The glass bowl in most cases can be removed.
​Instead use an inline filter between the carb and the pump Fram G-2 3 or 12

You can add pics now that you have enough posts.
Pics of the pump and hoses??
​The bottom hose might be a scavenge line returning unburned fuel??
 

Vorden72

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Thanks for info on carb setting jerry followed you advice and somewhat improved backfire. Have sorted out the fuel pump leak.

In meantime bought a second 85hp Chrysler from 1971 which has trim tilt unit. Do not have that running but tested trim tilt and works well with up/down control on remote throttle shifter.

Am thinking to move the tilt/trim to motor that is on the boat

Have looked at all threads, discussions and videos on how to remove the trim tilt components. So far disconnected the pump but initial efforts to "tap" out the top pin holding banjo fittings on tilt and shock absorber cylinders not effective. The bottom pin seems even more challenging.

My question is whether it makes sense to disconnect the transom brackets try to slide them off the bottom pin and trim housing then leaving only the top pin to remove?

Any ideas and comments appreciated
 
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