Noob question for a Force 906X91C

interalian

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Buddy's dad has this motor but can't figure out how to cold start it. I suspect there's a release button on the control that lets you throttle it out of gear. Am I right?

Thanks from an Evinrude dude.
 

pnwboat

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Yes, there is a release. Usually you just pull the handle out towards the Port side. It comes out about 1/4" or so then you can advance the throttle and start it. Sometimes there is a button on the center of the handle where it pivots to release the handle. It's really easy to flood the motor so don't hold the choke in more than 2 or 3 seconds when cold starting.
 

jerryjerry05

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That year came with 2 different choke or primer systems.
​Are they using the choke/primer?
​Sometimes the choke gets sticky and the slide won't move?? WD-40
​The primer only works when the key is pushed in repeatedly(I think)

​There are 2 types of shifters used also.
​The Force sold by Bayliner used one that you pulled the whole handle out and push it forward.
​The Force style has a button on the shifter handle that's pushed in to move the handle.
The "old" Force/Chrysler had a button on the body of the shifter to disengage the shift.
 

interalian

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Buddy got his dad to take a picture and all is clear now. They've owned the boat since new and never knew about the neutral throttle release even though it's printed right on the pivot. I'll be taking a look at this boat in a week or so. No idea whether this one uses a primer or a flap choke - we'll see.
 

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interalian

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Finally got this boat on the water today and it's behaving very badly. When the control is in neutral, the motor will start but go into forward (!). This seems odd since the neutral start switch being enabled must mean the cable was adjusted correctly. I removed the shift cable and there seems to be very little resistance in the linkage, and no 'detent' action I can feel. Coming from OMC, this seems odd - thoughts? There's a little slop in the cable, but not much. The prop ratchets when in F or R - normal I think.

The motor sneezes badly at idle. Despite the sneezing (lean), the exhaust at idle smells very rich. I checked the needles and the top two were 1 full turn from seated, the bottom was a half turn. Further inspection shows one of the carb nuts was fully loose, likely causing an air leak.

There's a hose coming out of the bottom of the crankcase that's plugged with a bolt. Where should it be connected?

Any tips for removing the lower unit? Water doesn't seem to be pumping, so the leg needs to come off.
 
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interalian

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Some more tinkering tonight.

Managed to get the neutral start switch activator and shift cable adjusted. That's working OK now, but I had to move the switch activator nearly to the end of its travel to put it in range. Odd.

Sneezing. It's sneezing and every time it does, there's a jet of smoke coming out the side of the motor, seems like it's from the fuel pump area. Not coming out of the crankcase centerline, more like the bypass ports. What the ???

Tested the water gauge with my bike pump that has a gauge and it's working pretty much dead on. I pulled the hose off the pressure fitting on the top of the head and got a piddly little stream of hot water. Doesn't register on the gauge. Lots of water spraying out of the exhaust relief ports at idle. Head is a lot hotter than it should be. Something's wrong with the pump unless thermostat/poppet.

And finally, the carbs are slightly open at idle. Looks like somebody messed with the linkage. Guess I'll have to do a link/synch. Is there a procedure for this motor on iBoats?

IMG_1924_zpsfpxb9enb.jpg


This is with the gearbox in neutral, as found. Note the alignment of the switch vs the actuator.

IMG_1933_zpsrj3uutlq.jpg


Sneezes coming out behind the terminal block below the power packs:

IMG_1925_zpsjnnxvcle.jpg
 
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jerryjerry05

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The sneeze and jet of smoke means your sucking air through the area where the smoke's coming from.
Probably a bad gasket. Unfortunately​ one sneeze or backfire can ruin those gaskets.
​Install with some silicone.
Torque it and let it dry.

Carbs.
Start at 1 1/2 turn out.
​The blocked hose. If it's what I think?? it should hook to the bottom of the plenum(thing covering carbs) there should be a fitting on it.
​It's to suck up all the fuel dumped from the carbs(if any)

The N safety switch actuator can be adjusted.

Read the top few posts in this forum.
Lots of things to help set the linkage.

If yours is a 91 it shouldn't have the poppet.
​Pull the thermostat cover and see if it even has one?

Lower unit is very easy to drop.
​The snout has a bolt under it.

Lastly: the fins you have are in the wrong place.
 

interalian

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The sneeze and jet of smoke means your sucking air through the area where the smoke's coming from.
Probably a bad gasket. Unfortunately​ one sneeze or backfire can ruin those gaskets.
​Install with some silicone.
Torque it and let it dry.

Carbs.
Start at 1 1/2 turn out.
​The blocked hose. If it's what I think?? it should hook to the bottom of the plenum(thing covering carbs) there should be a fitting on it.
​It's to suck up all the fuel dumped from the carbs(if any)

The N safety switch actuator can be adjusted.

Read the top few posts in this forum.
Lots of things to help set the linkage.

If yours is a 91 it shouldn't have the poppet.
​Pull the thermostat cover and see if it even has one?

Lower unit is very easy to drop.
​The snout has a bolt under it.

Lastly: the fins you have are in the wrong place.

Thanks! First and foremost, this isn't my boat - I'm helping a neighbor who has no mechanical aptitude and I have no experience with the Force.

In addition to the three bypass covers, there's another plate further forward. What does it cover?

I'll spin the needles out to 1-1/2. The top two were at 1, bottom at 1/2 as found. Carbs look pretty dirty on the outside, but may well be fine inside - I'll leave them to last.

There's a hole in the bottom of the air silencer that I can feel, but I think theres's supposed to be an 90 fitting that's gone. I'll see if I can rig something up.

I'll read up on linkage settings. Pretty sure the carbs aren't supposed to be cracked open at idle stop anyway. Maybe somebody monkeyed with it to compensate for the air leak.

I'll pull the thermostat and see what's there before dropping the leg. I've had the leg off my 'rude many times, so not a huge thing for me.

I took the fins off to fit the leg in my barrel. Should they be right at the back of the cav plate? I've never used them.

Mahalo!
 

pnwboat

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In addition to the three bypass covers, there's another plate further forward. What does it cover? The only other cover that I can think of is the puddle drain covers or fuel re-circulation covers. Kind of narrow and run vertically on the side of the motor. This is used to drain off any excess fuel that may have puddled up in the By-pass covers at idle or low RPM's.

There's a hole in the bottom of the air silencer that I can feel, but I think theres's supposed to be an 90 fitting that's gone. I'll see if I can rig something up. The hole in the bottom of the silencer is supposed to have a fitting with a metered hole (very small in diameter) to drain off any fuel that may have leaked out of the carburetors and collected in the bottom of the silencer. Common for the carbs to leak a little bit when you tilt the motor all the way up.

I'll read up on linkage settings. Pretty sure the carbs aren't supposed to be cracked open at idle stop anyway. Maybe somebody monkeyed with it to compensate for the air leak. It's not uncommon for the throttle plates to be cracked open just a tad at idle speed. I wouldn't pay much attention to the throttle plates, more important to set the idle speed at about 1000 RPM's on muffs. It'll drop down once the lower unit and exhaust are submerged to depth in the lake.

I'll pull the thermostat and see what's there before dropping the leg. I've had the leg off my 'rude many times, so not a huge thing for me. Like Jerry mentioned, there is an allen head bolt under the adjustable trim tab. You have to remove the trim tab to gain access to it.

I took the fins off to fit the leg in my barrel. Should they be right at the back of the cav plate? I've never used them. The bolt on fins are more of a personal preference and depends on the hull design and how the skipper wants the boat to perform. I had a set, and while it helped with porposing in rough water, it slowed the boat down so I took them off. I believe that they should be placed further back like you suggested.
 

interalian

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Smoking gun, as it were. Bypass cover gasket was missing along the entire forward edge of the center bypass cover. All bolts on all covers were barely finger tight. I've cleaned the joints, made new gaskets, and assembled with Permatex Black (oil resistant) - snugged to let the silicone cure. Final torque should be what, 75lb/in?

FullSizeRender%203_zps3hbniee5.jpg


Here's the gasket piece that blew out lying in the pan by the exhaust relief bellows:

IMG_1938_zpsffhopexm.jpg


All bypass covers off. Rings all nice and springy and there's no visible scuffing on the intake side:

IMG_1937_zpslwmx53rq.jpg


The other plate I was mentioning is the one just ahead of the bypass covers. All the bolts were snug - I think I'll leave it be.
 

interalian

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In addition to the three bypass covers, there's another plate further forward. What does it cover? The only other cover that I can think of is the puddle drain covers or fuel re-circulation covers. Kind of narrow and run vertically on the side of the motor. This is used to drain off any excess fuel that may have puddled up in the By-pass covers at idle or low RPM's.

There's a hole in the bottom of the air silencer that I can feel, but I think theres's supposed to be an 90 fitting that's gone. I'll see if I can rig something up. The hole in the bottom of the silencer is supposed to have a fitting with a metered hole (very small in diameter) to drain off any fuel that may have leaked out of the carburetors and collected in the bottom of the silencer. Common for the carbs to leak a little bit when you tilt the motor all the way up.

I'll read up on linkage settings. Pretty sure the carbs aren't supposed to be cracked open at idle stop anyway. Maybe somebody monkeyed with it to compensate for the air leak. It's not uncommon for the throttle plates to be cracked open just a tad at idle speed. I wouldn't pay much attention to the throttle plates, more important to set the idle speed at about 1000 RPM's on muffs. It'll drop down once the lower unit and exhaust are submerged to depth in the lake.

I'll pull the thermostat and see what's there before dropping the leg. I've had the leg off my 'rude many times, so not a huge thing for me. Like Jerry mentioned, there is an allen head bolt under the adjustable trim tab. You have to remove the trim tab to gain access to it.

I took the fins off to fit the leg in my barrel. Should they be right at the back of the cav plate? I've never used them. The bolt on fins are more of a personal preference and depends on the hull design and how the skipper wants the boat to perform. I had a set, and while it helped with porposing in rough water, it slowed the boat down so I took them off. I believe that they should be placed further back like you suggested.

Thanks for the added info!

1: see bottom photo above, it's the thin vertical plate in front. Bolts were tight, so I'll leave it be.

2: I've not pulled the silencer off yet. I can feel a hole where a fitting belongs. Carbs will be my last step.

3: I'm used to the way OMC crossflows are set, so found the carb setting odd. I've since seen notes on proper carb synch using the triple linkage and the roller eccentric to align to the notch in the cam. The throttle link is supposed to be adjusted to get the carbs fully open at WOT. That adjustment will wait for #2.

4: Thermostat bolts required hand impact to remove. Only got two off before I timed out this afternoon. Nice and corroded. Good place to use slotted screws...

5: I think we'll leave the trim fins off and see how the boat runs. We got it up to 30mph according to my phone GPS speedo on the first run.
 

interalian

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OK, this shift mechanism is giving me problems. I can see by the fast idle interlock that the upper mechanism is aligned more or less OK. I can't get the cable long enough to align when the gearcase is in neutral.

I've not yet had the leg off. Is there any shift rod adjustment on the lower unit?
 

jerryjerry05

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None that you should mess with.
​IF?? you turn the shift rod out you might get a small amount of adjustment but 1 turn to many and your dismantling the lower to reinstall the rod(big job)
There is an adjustment under the bottom carb.
It's a double nut on the upper shift rod.
There is a rectangular box that lets air into the cover.
​4 tiny screws and it comes out(not easily) but make adjusting the rod a lot easier.
​It shouldn't be too short?? Somethings not set right?Unless it's a new cable??
 

interalian

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Thanks. I was wondering since on OMC legs it's easy to muck up the shift shaft length and mess up engagement when the leg's off for impeller change. I'll make a quick video of how this is sitting. Not a new cable, old cable seems to be OK for slop.

This Bayliner has recessed motor well which makes it a major pain to access the motor from the sides...
 

interalian

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This is forward:

IMG_1939_zpsdlkdfyco.jpg


This is neutral. Note the position of the neutral safety switch and also note the throttle interlock is aligned.

IMG_1940_zpsaa9cwbsd.jpg


This is reverse:

IMG_1941_zpsdqutsbs7.jpg


Shift cable end is only on about 5 full turns, so there's really no room to adjust it further.
 

interalian

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Thermostat. You mentioned earlier "if it has one". Did they stop installing thermostats at some point or is it something people are known to remove but shouldn't?

BTW, I had to cut the last screw off the housing. Despite beating on the hand impact screwdriver until my arm felt like it was going to fall off. (I'm feeling that effort this morning...)

IMG_1944_zps0ehznehs.jpg
 
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interalian

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I think the waterpump impeller has seen better days...

IMG_1948_zpsc0wdnm6q.jpg


IMG_1947_zpslg5rjx3a.jpg
 
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interalian

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None that you should mess with.
​IF?? you turn the shift rod out you might get a small amount of adjustment but 1 turn to many and your dismantling the lower to reinstall the rod(big job)

There is an adjustment under the bottom carb.
It's a double nut on the upper shift rod.
There is a rectangular box that lets air into the cover.
​4 tiny screws and it comes out(not easily) but make adjusting the rod a lot easier.
​It shouldn't be too short?? Somethings not set right?Unless it's a new cable??

I get it that I don't want to mess with the shift rod in the LU, but based on what I'm seeing, it needs to be shorter, so the danger of turning it "out" and having it come out isn't there. I'm looking for a shift rod length spec but haven't had any luck.
 

interalian

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I get it that I don't want to mess with the shift rod in the LU, but based on what I'm seeing, it needs to be shorter, so the danger of turning it "out" and having it come out isn't there. I'm looking for a shift rod length spec but haven't had any luck.

OK, scratch that idea. The shift rod was only a half turn from bottomed. I guess I'll try adjusting the double-nut under the carb. Cables on these aren't known for stretch or shrink are they?

Oh, and there was no oil in the gearcase. We ran it like that for about 20 minutes. Who dumps the oil and leaves the case empty? I always dump the oil at the end of the season and put fresh in. Sigh...
 
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