1967 chrysler 55hp no spark

[justindc]

Hello
My dad and I have been working on restoring his 55 hp chrysler outboard. The model number is 55771. We currently have no spark on either cylinder. Any suggestions on where to begin? Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[jerryjerry05]

That old the points are probably corroded.
​Remove the flywheel and clean/ file them.

Oh yea Welcome.

 

[Nordin]

Does it have battery ignition system (ign.coils mounted on the block) or magneto (ign.coils under the flywheel)?

If it has battery ign.system it need 12VDC from a battery to produce spark and also clean points with right gap.
If magneto system, as jerryjerry suggest clean and regap the points.

 

[justindc]

Thanks for the reply. I went ahead and ordered new points and condensers because they are still the original ones. Can you tell me how to pull the flywheel? Also I have never worked with points. How do I set them once I get into it?

 

[justindc]

Also the coils are mounted on the side of the motor. They are not under the flywheel

 

[jerryjerry05]

The points might just need a cleaning?
​The top of the flywheel have 3 screw holes? or smooth?
​You can use a 3 jaw puller or a harmonic balance puller.
​Loosen the top nut and if there is room?? leave it on with a couple of threads engaged.
​That stops it from flying across the garage when it comes loose.

 

[Nordin]

Your engine has battery ignition system as the coils is on the block.
Where did you ordered the points from? Franz Marine?
The F12329-2 is N/A.

 

[justindc]

Yea I ordered them from Franz. It has the 3 screw holes on the top. Can you walk me through how to set the points? Thanks for the replies so far.

 

[Nordin]

The breaker points mounting base has two holes, one round and one that is not round.
Put/screw the breaker points to the timing plate and have the screws a bit loose.
Set the breaker points lever for #1 cylinder at the highest point of the camcurve by turning the crank.
Adjust the gap by putting a screwdriver tip between the two bosses at the timingplate and the slot in the points mounting base.

Adjust the gap to 015 with a feeler gauge so you feel a slight drag between the breaker points when slipping the feeler gauge.
Fasten the screws.
Turn the crank half a turn cw soo the #2 breaker points lever is at highest point at camcurve.
Do the same adjusting as with #1 to the #2 breaker points.

Turn the crank one or two turn and check the gap at both breaker points with the feeler gauge.
You should feel a slight drag when slipping the feeler gauge between the breaker points..

 

[justindc]

Thanks for the reply. I won't be able to start on this until the weekend but I will let you know how it goes.

 

[justindc]

One more question for you. After I install and set the new points what is the easiest way to test for spark? Am I going to have to put the flywheel back on and crank the key or is there an easier way? In case I don't set them correctly the first time I don't want to have to keep pulling the flywheel.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Saw an old Chrysler tech setting the timing with a special timing light.
Haven't seen the light anywhere after that day.
Looked like an old plastic flash light with a speaker jack in the bottom??

​If you can get an old manual?? they show a way to test with a 12v test light.

So you'll need to set it with the wheel.
​Once you take it off, it comes off easy.

 

[Nordin]

As your motor has battery ignition system it is really easy to check for spark and the timing advance.
You feed the coils with 12VDC connected at the terminal stripe at engine block.

Blue is ignition (plus 12VDC) and black is ground (minus).

Set the breaker points gap at both cylinders, put on the flywheel with key in the grove BUT do not tighten the nut.
Ground both spark plugs and turn the flywheel by hand. The spark plugs should fire with about 180 dgr interval.

To check the timing advance (normally you do not need to set it because if it is set correctly it should not change) count the teeth at flywheel, divide it by 360 and multiply with 30. (I think it is about seven teeth, if do not remember wrong).

Now you have the numbers of teeth at flywheel when the #1 cylinder should fire at WOT.

Check for the 0 dgr (TDC) mark at flywheel for "1 cylinder , count the numbers of teeth to the left of 0 dgr mark for 30 dgr BTDC.
Now set the throttle at WOT, do the same check for spark at #1 plug with a battery connected.

It should spark at the 30dgr (the numbers of teeth you have counted).

You adjust the advance by lengthen or shorten the timingplate rod.

If it is almost right, tighten the flywheel nut with right torque and then you can use a timinglight and the starter to set the timing advance more exactly.

 

[justindc]

Hey guys. I finally got the chance to work on the motor. Replaced the points and condensers and we now have spark on both cylinders. Thanks for the help. Does anyone know what I need to torque the flywheel nut to? Was not sure so I didn't do that yet.

 

[jerryjerry05]

80#

 

[justindc]

Thanks again for all the help. Should be able to take it out soon. Do you know what size fuel line should be used? I need to replace that and I'm not sure which size to buy.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Fuel line. Most newer Force/Chrysler used 1/4"
The older might have been 5/16"\
Look at the carb fittings.

 

[justindc]

Alright guys so I got the flywheel back but we can't get it to start. I replaced the terminals and tried a couple batteries to make sure that wasn't my problem. When i turn the key the flywheel will spin, but it will slow down and sounds like it's struggling to spin. Any idea what could be causing this? When it was only sparking on one cylinder last year it would still start no problem.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Do a compression test

 

[justindc]

It has 145 on both cylinders