1970s 75hp chrysler

rjcamel2355

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 22, 2015
Messages
221
Hey guys, I've got an early 70s model chrysler. Ill get the model/serial when the weather clears up on me. It has a distributor with points and an ignition coil i believe. The problem is its not getting any fire. I was told it ran before. Are there any troubleshooting tests i can do to try to narrow down the problem?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
 

Nordin

Commander
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,428
Search at this forum. There are a lot of threads about this.
I and the passed member Frank A and other members have wright many posts how to troubleshoot the battery CD system Chrysler used in late 60.es and almost the whole 70.es.

Or go to Outboard ig. dot com, they have a troubleshoot chart.

Troubleshoot the engine and come back with facts what happens or not and we will try to help you.
 

rjcamel2355

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 22, 2015
Messages
221
I've done a forum search, and also went through about 10 pages of the recent posts and read all the no spark posts. Yet i haven't found one explaining how to test, or what to test.

I know the basics, on these motors, I've already checked to make sure the flywheel key isn't sheared and that all my connections are good clean and tight.

I apologize if i have overlooked a post explaining what to do. But i did search before posting.

Thank you.
 

Nordin

Commander
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,428
Okey, first we have to find out if your engine has a points distributor or an electronic distributor.
The points typ has only one terminal with a white/black wire connected, the electronic typ has two terminals one with a white/black and one with a blue wire.
The electronic dist has an preamp instead of the points.

If you have an electronic distributor there should allways be 12VDC at blue wire at dist. when ign.key is in IGN position.

The ignition system is feed from the battery and must have power from there to work. It does not matter which distributor you have.

If you have an aftermarket CD module from CDI (115-3301) the module should give a high frequence pinching sound when turning the key at IGN. position.
If not, the module is bad.

Set ign.key at IGN position and measure with a VOM at the terminal strip mounted beside the exhaust cover.
There should be 12VDC at red wire to ground. If not, measure at red wire to ground at starter solenoid post with one thick and one thin wire there should be 12VDC.

If there is 12VDC at red wire measure at blue wire at terminal strip. There should be 12VDC, if not the issue is the keyswitch.

If all this is okey pull all plugs out from the head, turn the flywheel to TDC at #1 cyl.. Check it with a screwdrive in top hole.
Unhook high tension wire at the coil, put a of piece wire in the high tension post in the coil and hold the end of the wire about 1/2 in from ground.
.
Unhook the white/black wire from distributor and scratch it to ground. Each scratch should produce a spark.

If no spark, then either the coil is bad or the CD module is bad (factory Motorola/Delta typ).
If spark the check the high tension wires at dist.cap.

Ground #1 plug, rock flywheel back and forth. the plug should spark.
 

rjcamel2355

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 22, 2015
Messages
221
I got a second to check it out a bit today. Traced the 3 wires going into the rapair ed box (red, blue and yellow) red and blue are hot from the terminal block to the box, the white with black stripe wire going from the box to the coil has no power. Im guessing that means the ignition system box is bad? Obviously if there is no voltage from the ignition system to the coil then there isn't going to be any spark anywhere else. Correct?
 

Nordin

Commander
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,428
No that is not correct.
First I would like pics of your CD module and the distributor.
The colors of the wires at the box does not correspond to the colors of the factory made CD module from Motorola, Delta or the aftermarket box from CDI partnumber155-3301.

Red would be power to the box.
Blue would be ignition
White/black would be trigger signal from distributor.
Yellow ??????


The Motorola box has a red, blue, gray, white/black and white wire.

Red- power 12VDC from battery

Blue- 12VDC from ignition switch

Gray- positiv (+) to igition coil

White/black- trigger signal from distributor

White- taco signal

Sometimes (I think later Motorola boxes did not have a red wire. The box was powered by the blue at ignition position from key).

The CDI aftermarket box 115-3301 has blue, gray and white/black.
The colors correspond to the Motorola box.

If the box is okey then the issue can be the coil, the points, preamp (if it is an electronic distributor), high tension wires in the cap and bad ground of the distributor.
 

rjcamel2355

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 22, 2015
Messages
221
Just got home from work, here are the pictures of what I am dealing with. If these aren't clear enough or not exactly what you were looking for just let me know and I will get more detailed ones. I really appreciate you helping me out on this, I'm used to mercury and johnsons but this thing is a whole different era of new to me.
 

Nordin

Commander
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,428
Okey that pics will do find.
Your CD module is a repaired factory Motorola CD unit and the wire that looks yellow is actually the white wire which is for the taco and has nothing to do with the ignition.
It just pulses out signals for the taco to count.

Your distributor is very well grounded so that is not the issue and you have a points distributor.

Do like this to find out the problem.

Check the battery condition at first. It must be well charged and give12VDC.
This battery CD modules will not produce proper spark and work well if the voltage goes down to 9-10 VDC.

Pull out all plugs.
Set the top piston at TDC and the throttle at idle. Connect a plug to #1 high tension wire and ground it (plug to engine block).
Turn ignition key to IGN position.
Unhook white/black wire from distributor terminal and scratch it to ground. Or rock the flywheel back and forth. Each scratch or rock should produce a spark.

The rocking procedure will also check if the points is okey. The scratching with the white/black wire to ground will simulate the points open and close and will check the CD unit..

If it sparks, then the CD module and coil are working. Then you have some issue in the distributor. The points maybe if it no sparks when rocking but when scratching..

If it do not spark, then unhook the high tension wire going from coil to dist.cap at coil an put a piece of wire in to the coil terminal with good connection. Then hold the end of the wire about 1/4-3/8 of an inch from engine ground.
Do the same procedure rocking or scratching. If it now sparks then the issue is in the dist.cap.

KEEP GLOVES ON YOUR HANDS TO KEEP ANY OF ELECTRIC SHOCKS.

If no spark at all doing this checking above then the CD module OR coil is bad.
Measuring resistance (ohm) with a VOM at the coil the values should be.

Prime side of coil (small terminals at coil) 0,5-1,5 ohm.

Secondary side (high tension wire connection at coil to - (minus) post at coil) 500-650 ohm.

Hope you understand. My English is not so good.
 

rjcamel2355

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 22, 2015
Messages
221
I ran through the tests you sent me above, except the OHM/Voltmeter tests (Haven't had the chance to grab one) I have no spark when trying any of the tests. So I am assuming the coil/CD box is bad.

Could I order: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-Fo...ash=item465d0a40aa:g:bRsAAOSwo4pYjNWy&vxp=mtr

That off of ebay? It's supposedly "tested" It has the coil, and the box, just wanted to make sure it would work, and if you would recommend that route, first.
 

Nordin

Commander
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,428
Yes that one will fit, BUT look at pic number two. Looks like a crack in the epoxy/putty.
Contact the seller and check.

I just think the price is to high. Check out Ebay for just a box with a coil.
All boxes and coils from a 3-4 cyl. engine will fit.
 

rjcamel2355

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 22, 2015
Messages
221
Yessir, I agree it is definitely pricey. There's that one, and one more listed for a 4Cyl, for 220ish, is what I have found so far. I'll definitely keep shopping around, and contact the seller in regards to the crack.

I appreciate your time and help on this.
 

Nordin

Commander
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,428
There is a seller at Ebay called Mick?s Outboard.
He has a box and a coil up for sale. Two separate adds and about 110 dollar for both.
 

rjcamel2355

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 22, 2015
Messages
221
Thank you! I found the items you were talking about, I'm going to test the coil per your instructions above, if it tests good I'll just need to order the CDI, if not I'll grab them both. Again thank you!
 

rjcamel2355

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 22, 2015
Messages
221
I finally got a second to test the coil. I'm using a digital multimeter on 2000ohm setting

From the small terminal to where the plug goes into the bottom of the coil. I get 552 ohms

From the small terminal to the small terminal i am getting .7 ohm

Does this suggest my coil is okay? From your instructions that's what it appears to me.

Thank you again.
 

Nordin

Commander
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,428
Yes from your readings the coil seams okey.
But I want you to check another think too
.
As the prime side of the coil has a very low resistance (nearly a short cut) set the VOM at lowest reading 200 Ohm or somthing like that OR if you have a good brand such as Fluke that only has one position for resistance measuring.

Connect the tip of the leads together and check the reading. Now you should read the resistance of the measuringleads.(something like 0,0-0,2 ohms).
Then measure the prime side of the coil again (the two terminals for the thin wires).
You should now see a different reading then when you connected the tips together. Something like 0,6-1,5 ohms, 0,7 ohm as you stated.

With this you check that there is no shortcut in the prime side winding of the coil.
If this checks out okey then your coil seams like it is okey.
You can not be 100% sure because you do not put the coil under load with measuring with a VOM. Only the voltage from the battery in the VOM, usually about 5-9VDC.
But this usually clarifies that the coil is okey.
 

rjcamel2355

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 22, 2015
Messages
221
So i got it to spark when i scratch the white blk wire, but it doesn't fire when rocking or turning the flywheel. You mentioned the points are likely the culprit.

I'm not from the points era what so ever.... Would you possibly walk me through that? I pulled the dist cap and cleaned it up a bit. But it didn't look too bad. I just have no clue where to go from there.

Thank you sir.
 

rjcamel2355

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 22, 2015
Messages
221
Figured the points out. Cleaned them off really well now im getting fire how i should. Motor just won't start.
150# of compression on each cylinder
Good spark
Good fuel and oil


Itll turn over a little bit then "kick back" on the starter then turn over some more. Rinse and repeat. Its started to leave marks on about 6 or 8 teeth on the flywheel. Maybe a starter problem?

It tried to bust off a couple of times. Is it possible its a little out of time? I made sure to mark the belt and distributor gear. So unless it was out before i got it i dont think i messed that up.

Any tips?
 
Top