Hey everyone Thanks for letting me become part of the community. After way to much reading and many many different opinions read i decided to make my own post about this. I know it has been covered many times but i cant seem to find a straight forward answer or solution to my problem(s) with my 1999 Force 40hp.
Boat Info: 2001 Tracker pt175
Engine: 99 Merc Force 40hp
Engine Family : XM9XM0050210 (not sure if this helps at all)
Knowledge of electrical circuits: Average - took some courses on electrical circuits in 2005-08
Knowledge of motors: Self taught but i can fix anything on a car, just starting to learn about Outboards.
Current issue: No tach signal - Possible Bag reg or stator? possible even a bad tach
So Since buying the boat i have not had a working tach. Previous owner said it just stopped working one day and thinks the tach broke. But he also said that about the bilge and livewell pumps and i had those working within hours of picking up the boat, so im skeptical about the tach beings busted, of course i could be wrong.
- The regulator on the motor looks like its been burnt up a bit, some black around the seal and of course some melting at one of the stator connections (seems most forces have this from what i have read). I recently purchased a new regulator off Ebay from a company called Celox. Below are some of my findings.
Original Regulator
Motor running at idle: 13.6 -15.2v at battery DC volts
-Analog meter at dash shows about 13v
-Gray wire from reg to tach has no signal, I measured voltage from ign to tach and it has a steady 12+ volts...Voltage from gray wire about 9v.
- If i connect gray wire to either yellow stator wire RPMS will climb on tach gradually without stopping.
New regulator
Motor running at idle: 14.8-16.8 volts DC at battery will sometimes spike above ( i know these are "un" regulated systems but that seems a bit excessive?)
-Analog meter at dash shows about 15V and will fluctuate if i give it gas
-Gray wire from Reg to tach now has some kind of "signal" will show idle RPMS but once i give it any kind of load the signal dies? (bad wiring?)
- Same deal with the yellow stator wires if i connect tach signal to it, a slow climb in RPM that does not stop.
Tach experiments:
-I tried running a signal wire directly from regulator to tach, still an idle signal but would die under load ( this was with new regulator, never tried this with the old regulator)
-Tried moving the poles around and reset back to where it was to "clean" the tach from a tip i had read.
Stator;
I did a resistance test on the stator---it seemed to check out. I dont have a DVA meter so i cant do any of those tests
-Yellow to yellow 00.7 ohms with meter set to 200ohms
-Wht/green to green/wht .648 ohms set at 2k ohms
-No resistance to ground
Conclusion: I HAVE NO IDEA haha. It honestly seems like the original regulator is just fine. ANY AND ALL suggestions for additional testing on the stator and regulator would be appreciated!!! Im actually picking up a used tach in two days to see if im right.
MISFIRE ISSUE:
-When i first had the boat the idle was pretty smooth and she seemed to run "ok" but without a tach i cant tell if im running max recommended RPM at WOT. It certainly feels like its being held back. After about 2 months of use after buying it the motor developed a "bucking" idle and it loves to die out while idling and sometimes coming off of plane and shifting to neutral it will die. (Its never cut out under throttle). I replaced the plugs with the NGK recommended plug (BUWH or something like that) and also replaced the fuel filter.
-The boat runs about 28mph at the current WOT but you can audibly hear and feel a misfire in the boat. Sometimes it goes away for a second and you can feel some additional power kick in, but they it starts to mis fire again.
- I just ran a treatment of Seafoam in the motor yesterday through the "shock" gas treatment and actually had the boat pushing 30mph, but again still a definite misfire.
- have not run a compression test, but previous owner said he had the motor tuned 2 years ago and compression was 120/120.
- Note the plugs had some oil on them and some black bits, im assuming carbon on the plugs when i inspected 2 days ago
Any ideas on where to start with this?
Sorry for the Long post, but from what i read everyone wants details! so i tried my best. THANK YOU in advance for any help the community can give me. I also have videos of motor running on muffs i can upload.
Boat Info: 2001 Tracker pt175
Engine: 99 Merc Force 40hp
Engine Family : XM9XM0050210 (not sure if this helps at all)
Knowledge of electrical circuits: Average - took some courses on electrical circuits in 2005-08
Knowledge of motors: Self taught but i can fix anything on a car, just starting to learn about Outboards.
Current issue: No tach signal - Possible Bag reg or stator? possible even a bad tach
So Since buying the boat i have not had a working tach. Previous owner said it just stopped working one day and thinks the tach broke. But he also said that about the bilge and livewell pumps and i had those working within hours of picking up the boat, so im skeptical about the tach beings busted, of course i could be wrong.
- The regulator on the motor looks like its been burnt up a bit, some black around the seal and of course some melting at one of the stator connections (seems most forces have this from what i have read). I recently purchased a new regulator off Ebay from a company called Celox. Below are some of my findings.
Original Regulator
Motor running at idle: 13.6 -15.2v at battery DC volts
-Analog meter at dash shows about 13v
-Gray wire from reg to tach has no signal, I measured voltage from ign to tach and it has a steady 12+ volts...Voltage from gray wire about 9v.
- If i connect gray wire to either yellow stator wire RPMS will climb on tach gradually without stopping.
New regulator
Motor running at idle: 14.8-16.8 volts DC at battery will sometimes spike above ( i know these are "un" regulated systems but that seems a bit excessive?)
-Analog meter at dash shows about 15V and will fluctuate if i give it gas
-Gray wire from Reg to tach now has some kind of "signal" will show idle RPMS but once i give it any kind of load the signal dies? (bad wiring?)
- Same deal with the yellow stator wires if i connect tach signal to it, a slow climb in RPM that does not stop.
Tach experiments:
-I tried running a signal wire directly from regulator to tach, still an idle signal but would die under load ( this was with new regulator, never tried this with the old regulator)
-Tried moving the poles around and reset back to where it was to "clean" the tach from a tip i had read.
Stator;
I did a resistance test on the stator---it seemed to check out. I dont have a DVA meter so i cant do any of those tests
-Yellow to yellow 00.7 ohms with meter set to 200ohms
-Wht/green to green/wht .648 ohms set at 2k ohms
-No resistance to ground
Conclusion: I HAVE NO IDEA haha. It honestly seems like the original regulator is just fine. ANY AND ALL suggestions for additional testing on the stator and regulator would be appreciated!!! Im actually picking up a used tach in two days to see if im right.
MISFIRE ISSUE:
-When i first had the boat the idle was pretty smooth and she seemed to run "ok" but without a tach i cant tell if im running max recommended RPM at WOT. It certainly feels like its being held back. After about 2 months of use after buying it the motor developed a "bucking" idle and it loves to die out while idling and sometimes coming off of plane and shifting to neutral it will die. (Its never cut out under throttle). I replaced the plugs with the NGK recommended plug (BUWH or something like that) and also replaced the fuel filter.
-The boat runs about 28mph at the current WOT but you can audibly hear and feel a misfire in the boat. Sometimes it goes away for a second and you can feel some additional power kick in, but they it starts to mis fire again.
- I just ran a treatment of Seafoam in the motor yesterday through the "shock" gas treatment and actually had the boat pushing 30mph, but again still a definite misfire.
- have not run a compression test, but previous owner said he had the motor tuned 2 years ago and compression was 120/120.
- Note the plugs had some oil on them and some black bits, im assuming carbon on the plugs when i inspected 2 days ago
Any ideas on where to start with this?
Sorry for the Long post, but from what i read everyone wants details! so i tried my best. THANK YOU in advance for any help the community can give me. I also have videos of motor running on muffs i can upload.
