Hydraulic hose

92cobra

Seaman Apprentice
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Mar 29, 2016
Messages
48
Hello again all. Im trying to find a part# for the grease line that goes to the steering control ram on my 90hp force into engine compartment on my boat it's cracked and needs replaced..it just looks like a normal hose but I cannot find it anywhere on schematics
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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May 7, 2008
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17,923
90. Year? Model#?
L-drive??
Something like this a picture would help a LOT!
 

92cobra

Seaman Apprentice
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Mar 29, 2016
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48
Sorry posted this while at work.I'll have to get a picture when I wake up this afternoon. It's a '92 force 90hp. Not sure if it's an l-drive or not.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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47,297
Grease lines are 10,000 psi hoses. Most grease guns can generate about 8000 psi
 

Tnstratofam

Commander
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Aug 18, 2013
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2,679
That's the steering cable itself. It's not hydralic the cable is solid with grease for lubrication.
 

92cobra

Seaman Apprentice
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Mar 29, 2016
Messages
48
Where would I go about finding a replacement for it?I have it taped up with some "special" tape from Walmart.seems to be holding.
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
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Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
There are several choices here on IBoats in the Parts... "Steering System" section. One of the common brands of steering system on the Bayliners on the late 80's and early 90's was Teleflex. If you are just replacing the cable, you may have to get one from the same manufacturer of the system that is currently on your boat. If you are replacing the whole system, it doesn't matter, just need to determine the length of the cable.

For starters you have to find out what brand steering you have in your boat, and how long the cable is. To find that out, you have to look at the printing on the cable itself which can be a problem, since it is often not very accessible. There may be a manufacturer name on the steering mechanism under the dash by the steering wheel.
 

Tnstratofam

Commander
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Aug 18, 2013
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2,679
Mine split on the same spot. I had overfilled the steering tube with grease I think and my steering wouldn't turn the same distance port to starboard. I split the tube trying to force the steering more in one direction.:facepalm:

I ended up removing the grease fitting and slowly working the steering back and forth until I had full lock to lock steering port to starboard. I placed paper towels in the splashwell to catch the grease but I still made a mess. I ended up taping my cable sheathing as well, and it has held up pretty good. I do check it before every trip and during and after. So far so good.

I do plan on changing the cable but I may change the whole steering setup insted. We shall see.
 

92cobra

Seaman Apprentice
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Mar 29, 2016
Messages
48
That's exactly what I think happened to mine put some grease in there and it popped.the fitting even came out but I believe it was cross threaded or stripped out. I cannot get another zerk fittings back in that spot.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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May 7, 2008
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17,923
The zerks are a pressed in fitting.
To replace you'll need to probably replace the whole steering tube.
There isn't enough metal in the tube to tap a new hole for another fitting.

​I changed to hyd. steering back when I got my boat.
It makes steering a lot easier.
But it can also have enough pressure to break stuff too.
So lubing is a MUST!!

​I use WD then 30w oil on the steering cable.
Messy but it doesn't freeze.

​I replaced the ones on my mid section with 2 , one on the top and one on the bottom.

The main reason they pop is the grease gets old and turns SOLID!!!

​When you add grease it has nowhere to go.
​So the pressure just pops the fitting.

To alleviate the problem with the other fittings I use a small propane torch and heat the whole system.
The kingpin area and steering tube and the tilt bar has a fitting that does the same thing.

Use a good grade of MARINE grease.
Heat the whole area and then heat it again.
Then slowly try to add grease.
IF?? it doesn't take it?? heat it again.

​Remember there are plastic bushing at the top and bottom of the kingpin and too much heat can melt them
and they can seize and your steering will be real hard.

​Take your time. That grease gun can put out a lot of pressure and pop the zerks
 

92cobra

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 29, 2016
Messages
48
Well crap.that's not what I wanted to here. Yea I didn't think there was much room on that tube to recap. I guess I'll look for a new tube.i don't use the boat much. Couple weekends a year I only get one weekend off a month.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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May 7, 2008
Messages
17,923
Changing the tube????
​That can be a huge job by it's self.
The best bet is WD-40 and spray, spray spray!
Lube the end of the cable and hope if feeds back up the cable.
 

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
21,657
OK, the tube only needs enough grease in it to prevent rusting and seizing up.
Many many motors don't have a zerk on there.
You just undo the steering cable every few years, apply a bit of grease to the steering rod, and put it back together.

Most of the steering rod actually will protrude out the port side of the steering tube, and can be greased without disconnecting it.

The only exception would be if the boat is used in saltwater.

So, you don't need the zerk. and the grease will not all leak out if you use a waterproof marine grease.


But, the broken sheath on the steering cable is another situation.
You did not break the sheath when you greased the zero, as there is an oring seal between the zerk and the cable.

But the broken sheath on the cable is a safety issue.
Your cable could bind up.
Or, it will rust internally, and then fray, break, or bind up.
You do not want this to happen while underway or you will go for a wild ride.


Be safe, replace the steering cable with one of the same length.

Oh, BTW, you do not (can't) grease the cable inside the sheath.
It is greased and sealed, and will be fine for many years, until the outer sheath dies of old age.

When you do replace the cable, remove the old cable and clean out the tube on the motor, using a
wire brush, like one used for cleaning the bore of a shotgun.
Grease the new steering rod and insert into the tube. Secure it and connect the port side, and you are done.
 
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