1994 Force 120 question before buying stator

[pnwboat]

The knocking sound you hear may be pre-ignition which is not good. Either the motor is too hot, poor quality gas, the timing is too far advanced, or the motor is running too lean.

Blocked water passages can cause the motor to run hot. If you found a lot of salt and sand in and around the thermostat housing, I would be concerned about the water passages in the exhaust cover. They're smaller and are more easily clogged by saltwater corrosion, and sand. The biggest problem with checking the exhaust cover is the 1/4 X 20 threaded bolts that hold it on have a tendency to break when you are removing them. If you decide to do this, be sure you have access to good quality drill bits (Cobalt steel) and a 1/4 X 20 tap or possibly a heli-coil repair kit and some patience. I would check the timing and fuel mixture first before I would check the exhaust cover because they are easier to do and less of a chance of causing a problem.

The timing is easily checked with a timing light.

Make sure that the idle mixture screws are set no less than 1 turn out from lightly seated all the way in. Typically 1-1/8 turn to 1-1/4 turn out from lightly seated will get you in the ball park. Each motor is slightly different. Have you changed the fuel pump diaphragm?

 

[jerryjerry05]

No Title

IF??? you had that much salt on the thermo??? then the cooling passages will probably be full of sand and salt.

You'll need to remove the head and clean out the passages around the cylinders.
Then the exhaust cover needs to come off. Start spraying with PB Blaster now and continue for a couple of days.
During that time, take a small torch and heat the screws and spray and heat.
You'll have a bit of flame from the chemicals so be careful.
Your trying to release the gunk around the threads.

h yea the head bolts might be stuck too.

 

[ObiwanKenobi]

Thanks for all of the great ideas. I have a few things to dig into. Before I go any further, here's one interesting detail: when I out my hand part way over the power carb (the air intake), the problem is solved. When I take it off, it returns within ten seconds or less. This tells me something in the lower carb may be clogged. It did sit for a month, so maybe the separation of the oil, fuel, and perhaps some water in the tank could have resulted in some gunk getting into the carb. It also idles pretty high--around 1200 when I have my hand partly covering the carb. It gradually increases in idling RPM up to the revving speeds as it warms up. But I doubt an improper idle adjustment would cause the revving. (Is the idle controlled by the carb anyway?) What do you think, fellas? Clean the carbs, then try other stuff? Thanks, again, for all the help.

(I also replaced the plugs, which made no difference. One was a little fouled, so maybe it was money well-spent.)

 

[pnwboat]

That could be an indication that the fuel mixture may be too lean. Cleaning the carbs and making sure the float levels are correct and idle mixture is set properly. Also if you haven't already done so, make sure the fuel pump is operating correctly. The fuel pump diaphragm should be replaced on a regular schedule.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Back to basics: compression and spark test, re-set the timing.
​Clean the carbs and while they are off check the reeds and see if they are none broken/ missing.

​Install a filter between the carb and the pump. Fram G-2 G-3 G12
​These are a clear filter and you can see if there is any water in the system.
It takes YEARS for the gas and oil to separate.
​But if your using Ethanol then it can break down pretty quickly in the hose and carb.

 

[ObiwanKenobi]

Didn't see a lot of these great replies, because I didn't get any email alerts. Maybe it's because I broke the rule about posting in an old thread (?). Anyway, I'm going to start a new thread because the issue I'm dealing with now definitely has nothing to do with the stator, so I've hijacked my own thread somehow. Here's a wrap-up: New stator works absolutely great. Paid a good mechanic to check it out, and the revving was because the engine just wasn't tuned. He adjusted the screw at the top just under the flywheel, and he adjusted the small arm on small ball joints that's before the carbs. He also turned the small (idle?) screws on the carbs. That fixed the idle. It does seem to idle a little too low now because it will ease down to 500 rpms, then die slowly sometimes. I think I can adjust it using what pnwboat said. The overheat alarm is consistently going off at high rpms only, but I'm going to start a new thread for that. Looks like a lot of folks have this issue, so I'm hoping a new thread will also further increase the Mecca-status of iboats.com. Thanks, again, fellas.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The (idle) screws are NOT idle screws.
They're for air/fuel mix ratio at idle and low speeds.
​DON'T touch.
The idle is set up at the bottom of the tower shaft.
​Motor needs to be warm, in the water and in gear.