Help with Chrysler 1982 75 hp I am considering buying

[rkinross]

I am considering buying a 15 ft Rinker with a Chrysler 1982 Chrysler 75 hp outboard attached. In checking out the boat and motor I have a few concerns that I would like to run by the forum. The boat and motor are very clean and seem to be well taken care of - no rips or tears in the vinyl seats, gelcoat good, carpet clean ... My concern is with the outboard. It looks clean and we ran it for about 10 minutes with the muffs attached for cooling. The engine ran smoothly after some difficulty in starting. The current owner had to spray starting fluid in the carb to get it to start. It has the type of key on the electric start that you can push in to prime or choke the carb. He pushed in the key and used the shifter to give is gas, pumped the bulb attached to the gas tank line, and after 4 to 6 quick tries with the key it started. After running the engine for ten minutes, we shut it off for a few minutes and then decided to drain all of the gas out of the engine by disconnecting the gas tank. At this point the engine cranked, sputtered, and backfired. The outdoor temperature was about 60 degrees for the test. I can understand the difficulty starting after sitting for several months in the garage. It is the backfire that worries me. Shouldn't the engine just start and run out of gas when the fuel line is disconnected from the gas tank? Could this action cause a backfire or does the engine have timing, flywheel key problems? After reading some of the post on this forum I am starting to get cold feet on the purchase. I don't want to buy someone else's problem

 

[Tnstratofam]

We have an 81 75hp Chrysler on our 81 Starcraft 160 Super Sport and have been well pleased with its peeformance. Mind you our Starcraft is alluminium so lighter than a 16 foot glass boat. It can be a little temperamental to start when sitting for a while, and if the gas you all were using for your test run was old it may have contributed to its hard starting. The carbs may need a rebuild ( not to difficult) or it may need new plugs.

I would plan on a tune up and thorough cleaning of the fuel system to include new fuel lines with an inline filter between the fuel pump and carbs, as well as rebuilding the fuel pump. I would not use starting fluid to ever start a 2 stroke outboard. Spraying gas and oil mixed into the carbs after it sits a while maybe.

To start ours I pump the bulb till I feel pressure build up. Pull the knob on the controls placing the shifter into neutral. Put the throtle/shifter fully forward into the fast idle position. Push in the key and hold for about 3 or 4 seconds ( which applies the choke )while cranking let the key come out releasing the choke while continuing to crank until it fires. Sometimes it will die fairly quickly requiring me to repeat using the choke. After it warms up in fast idle for a few seconds I drop the throtle back to neutral.

Almost forgot :welcome: to the best place on the web for everything boats.

 

[rkinross]

Thanks for your reply and information on how to start the outboard. How do you drain the gas from the engine when you are done using your boat? Do you have any comments on the backfire?

 

[jerryjerry05]

The backfire could be low compression??
​The need of starting fluid could be low compression??

Draining the carbs is a good thing but running them dry isn't.
Running them dry: you never really get all the fuel out and it can dry up and cause a gunk build up.

You can't add pics until you post 5 times.
​But you can add photo sharing. Post some pics?

​Get someone to do an inspection.
The transom needs to be checked.
The compression needs to be checked.

​Fill out the profile, including your location.
You MIGHT be near someone who can help????

Good luck with the boat.

 

[rkinross]

jerry05 - thank you for your reply - quick question - How do you drain the carb without running it dry? Is there a drain plug I should know about? Thanks again. Bob

 

[jerryjerry05]

The drain plug is on the bottom of the float bowl.
Hard to get to.

​The thing to do is add a fuel stabilizer and an Ethanol stabilizer if not using the boat for long periods(2-3 mo. or more)

 

[Tnstratofam]

The drain plug is on the bottom of the float bowl.
Hard to get to.

​The thing to do is add a fuel stabilizer and an Ethanol stabilizer if not using the boat for long periods(2-3 mo. or more)

This is what I do and it has worked well for me for several years. I'm lucky in that the lakes around me almost never freeze enough that the ramps can't be accessed, but I also don't go out on the water very often when it drops below 50. So my boat is usually parked from December to March with the occasional splash when warm temps allow.

 

[fishin4thebig1]

This this is just my experience if they don't make the brand Motor anymore don't buy it parts are hard to find and it will give you more trouble than it's worth thats my experience coming from a 1987 Force 50hp which was a Chrysler product that left me sitting every time I went out now I have a 75hp mercury no problem finding parts or anything for it

 

[jerryjerry05]

Parts are still available for most Chrysler and Forces.
Some people have bad luck with some motors.
My neighbors got a 8hp 1992 Evinrude.
​Cost him 200$ he's now got over $400 in parts and lots of labor(free) and it still runs like crap.
Another neighbors Yamaha is the same.

If the compression and spark are good? Buy.

 

[mxcobra]

I'm sure in needs a carb clean, clogged jets will cause backfire, buying anything used expecually a boat. Is most definitely going to have problems

 

[rkinross]

Thanks to all of the members for posting answers to my question regarding the boat purchase. I took the advice of having it checked out by a marine mechanic - George at West Penn Marine in Butler Pa. He started it right up, let it warm up and then took it inside to do the compression test. It was worth the money to have it checked by someone who knows what they are doing. It provided me with some peace of mind that I wasn't buying someone else's problem. The boat checked out ok and I went ahead with the purchase. I know buying something 30+ years old is a crap shoot but the price was right (in the middle of winter when a boat is hard to sell around here) and we shall see how good it actually runs in the water this coming spring. Thanks again for all of your input - it is sincerely appreciated. Bob

 

[Tnstratofam]

Congratulations. How about some pics when you get a chance.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Glad the tests came out ok and it runs!!
​Lots of people look and think "really clean" or "the seller said it's a great runner".
Then buy a lemon.
​By spending a few $ on an inspection?? Monet well spent.

 

[rkinross]

The cost of inspection was $50 and took about 45 minutes. George was able to do the inspection in the early morning after calling to schedule an appointment the night before. I will post pictures after this post when I have 5 post to my credit.
Bob

 

[rkinross]

iboats will not allow a 32K upload of the jpg image. I get a unspecific error and the upload fails. I thought the size limit was 1meg based of comments from other posters in 2014.

 

[jerryjerry05]

You might have to resize the photos??
​Or use a photo sharing site like Photo Bucket or something similar.